Wake Tower Fatigue

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Not open for further replies.


New Member
Have a factory aluminum wake tower with a fatigue crack on one of the welds -- don't think it is a stress crack as it is not at one of the load bearing points.

Anyone familiar with fixing this type of issue? Is it just a matter of finding a weld shop that can reweld the joint - knowing that it is not just a simple welder as it is aluminum.

Thanks for input,
you can use a "mig" w/ aluminum wire.

You will also need 100% argon. Most MIG guys use a CO2 mix, and a Teflon guide tube, or a wire gun will make life easier.

In reality… you can Oxy/Act weld it too… but you can only use 3000 series alloy rod, and you have to use a special paste flux.

Ok… enough of the welding info… I think there was a recall on that… check into it.

Dr. Honda - checked on that Seadoo recall and it appears to be just 2004-2008 Wake editions of the Speedster variety. I am still going to followup with my dealer and see if I get any love on it :) It seems strange - to me at least - that my crack is in the exact same place the recall fractures were happening. Let us not hold our breath though! :rofl:

Sounds like I am off to search for someone local that welds aluminum as much as I would like to learn myself, it isn't one of those core skills for the moment -- more important to learn about wear ring and impeller replacement for when the time comes.

Hate the idea of looking silly using the popup ski pylon this weekend when I have a wake tower on board -- but better safe than having it collapse under load.

TIG is the ideal and sexy way to welt Al. You can also use a CV/CC MIG with with a wire feeder attachment. But as you said, the investment in time and money will make it easier to just have it done for you.
Found a welder who worked in a local shop that does a lot of TIG to do it for me. Ran it over after hours on evening, and done in an hour (after having to remove the tower speakers, take out and resnake the speaker wire, and reattach the tower speakers). Not quite as good as the factory welds but he's only human :)

If anyone in the Edmonton, Alberta area needs some welds done let me know and I can pass along his information.

Talking with him, he also did work for a boat shop in the city, and he's seen the towers fracture and such from tubing off them -- too much stress. He was adamant on the popup pylon or the tow rings. He suspects thats how the crack happened -- said it could be worse as some have pulled their mounts right out. Yikes!

Are Seadoo factory towers of this era (2003) known for their failures? I had the one side welded, and now the other side has cracked almost all the way around. That is after not really using the tower for anything ... other than hanging stereo tubbies off of.

How much shake should there be in a tower? Mine shakes a lot when jumping a wake, or even in tranport I can see if shaking. The mount points on the boat are tight, so the only thing I can think of is the connection between the tower and boat mount point is not tight for some reason although it is all locked into place.
Tower issues

My 07 S200 had a bad shake side to side, say 1-2 inches in chop or being towed. It always annoyed me.....and it creaked. There was a recall for my boat......when inspected I had cracks near the rear mount points. A new tower was installed and now the rear legs are 2.25 diameter and the profile of the tower is much rounder in the rear. I have 0 shakes now! I think keeping all the bolts tight is key to any tower though. IMHO the tube diameter was too small and the tower design aloowed too much movement side to side.


Tower Issues

Would agree with your observations ncarbon. - not sure how thick the aluminum is but for this boat's tower and it being transported to and from the lake I am beginning to think not thick enough as when the joints crack the cracks also try to run vertically up the arm.

To be honest this tower is becoming more trouble than it is worth.
This weekend one of the fastening knobs for the fold down arm decided to strip itself out of its hole - must have been enough thread play for it to work and start stripping the threads. Guess is it tap and dye time to make new threads and find a new fastening knob one size up.

Hey, let me ask this:
In the mount points for your tower is there supposed to be a nylon bushing or anything to spacing/cushioning as the arm goes into the mount point. Mine is metal on metal and it seemed a little strange.

Metal on metal. Tower leg to mount block on hull. I have had mine up and going and the Tower is 100% better than before with 2.25 rear tube. The black hand knobs that secure the folding section of the rear leg, mine have also loosened up, I will blue loctite them next time as I don't fold my tower.

Not open for further replies.