RESTO Timing question

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Wbelt

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1994 Sea-Doo bombardier GTX 657.
So I had the cylinders off and the carbs off. doing a top end rebuild. Well when I had the pistons off I turned motor over by hand to inspect the rods. Is it possible I threw the timing off. I only had carbs off and cylinders off. Now everything is back together it just turns over. Every once in a while sounds like it wants to start. Thinking it’s the timing. But not too sure.
 
No, it's not possible to throw the timing off by hand turning the crank with only the cylinders and pistons removed.

Why did you do the top end? The reason I ask is the question I have would sound kind of stupid otherwise. How did it run before you had to rebuild it?
 
It would run good for a lil bit prolly 30-40 mins then loose power and act VERY sluggish. So I put new pistons in and rebuilt the carbs and now it just turns over and won’t start. I’m lost at this point. I can’t figure out why it won’t fire up.
 
If it was firing and running before the rebuild then it's 90% not your timing.

As long as you did not remove the rotary valve when you did the carb work everything should still be timed just fine.

Did you follow the carb rebuild thread, at the top of the two stroke forum, as a guide to doing the carb work?

Confirm you have fuel in the fuel filter under the steering column area.

Are the spark plugs dry right now? Or are they wet?

Confirm you have spark.

Did you use original Mikuni parts when rebuilding the carbs. You will hear this a million times on this forum and it can not be understated enough. OEM rebuild kits only for Mikuni carbs!

Confirm you have good compression.

Do all of these and give a shout back.
 
If it didn't do anything with starting fluid either you have water in the cylinders or no spark. I'd bet on "no Spark"
 
I had just put cylinders back on other night so I know there is no water. I just checked spark it has what looks like very little spark.
 
I like to start at the battery, do a load test on the battery (fully charged). Next would be a compression test (that the cylinders are within 10 % of each other).
 
Compression should be good I just did the top end... So I just got home and I let the ski sit for a couple days with the head off so it could dry out. Put it all back on and it almost fired up. Battery sounds very weak even after being charged fully. So I’m thinking the battery is shot???
 
I also took the battery out of my other ski and it sounds weak also but it starts the other ski right up.. I don’t get it..
 
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So after let sit for a few days to dry out I put head back on and tried to start. It was super close then it sounded like it was flooded or something . Pulled plug it had oil so I pulled head and my front piston is covered in oil. What is causing this?
 
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So after let sit for a few days to dry out I put head back on and tried to start. It was super close then it sounded like it was flooded or something . Pulled plug it had oil so I pulled head and my front piston is covered in oil. What is causing this?

Cut your plug wire a tad and swap the caps from your other known running doo
 
Are you sure you are getting spark? Have you tried testing the spark with a spark plug gap tester to ensure the spark is strong enough? After that i would double check the carb to make sure all the setting are correct and its not dumping more fuel than it should.
 
Are you sure you are getting spark? Have you tried testing the spark with a spark plug gap tester to ensure the spark is strong enough? After that i would double check the carb to make sure all the setting are correct and its not dumping more fuel than it should.
gap should be .2-.3 inches or .7mm. I go in the middle and do .25inches
 
Ngk standard plugs. I’ll check the gap size here soon an post update. I’m gonna replace battery with new one also. So fingers crossed lol.
 
Make sure you have the proper plugs also, i doubt this would cause this issue but its best to rule out all possibilities.
 
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