Taking on Water / Tuned Pipe Leak

[ondmove]

I need help FAST. I am new to these machines and my 1998 GTX Limited took on a lot of water the last couple times I used it. Last time, I just drained it. This weekend, I used it on a couple short runs and it was OK. However, today when I took it out, it took on a lot of water (few inches, maybe more) and it got sluggish, ran at about 3,000 rpm 10-20 mph max. I got it back to shore and found all this water.... I immediately got it on the trailer and drained all the water out. When I got home, I thought I'd put some water in the bottom of the ski and see if I found it leaking out somewhere.... nothing. Instead, while looking in the engine compartment, I found the Tuned Pipe missing 1 bolt, other two bolts about to fall out, tuned pipe flange hole broken out and the gasket in a few loose pieces. Now, I'm assuming the water was being pulled in and dumped past this gasket.

#1: What do I need to do immmediately to keep from engine being ruined.
#2: How difficult is a replacement/repair for the tuned pipe?
#3: What should I do to make sure everything is back to 'normal'?

Please help. I have to travel all week, so if I need to get it to a dealer ASAP, I will. Otherwise, I'll try to do the repairs myself. Thanks

 

[Bills86e]

You'll have to remove and file the mating surface flat again and maybe re-tap to
next larger size stainless bolt. Sounds like your bailers are failing to suction water.
I suggest check the lines from floor boxs to the 90* fitting to see if its tied to underside or rear seat consul, remove the jetpump venturi and check for the two
o-rings at top veins, and if the venturi's siphon tubes that protrude into the thrust water pressure chamber are there or missing. You'll have to later check leaks by
backing ski into the water tied to trailor to check the Carbone ring and exhaust
dimples, and any other gasket or marine hose leaks. Bills86e

 

[ondmove]

Thanks for the input. Will a dealer do a re-tap or will they try to tell me I need to 'replace' everything? As far as the bailers are concerned, where do I find them. If you have a shop manual, can you point me to them in there? I'll start there and move on to your other suggestions. But, is there anything that I need to check for to be sure leaving it sit a week or so, won't damage something severely?

 

[daverade]

yo yo yo if you dont have a book you could become a preme. member and get one free... the bailers arethe lil black boxes on the floor toward the rear of the ski... they have hoses that run out the back... the hoses should come outta the bailers and connect to a 90* fitting, that should be ziptied up to the top of the hull, from there the 90* fittings should have another hose that runs down and out of the back of the ski... go to the back of the ski... sit and look at the nozzle, you'll see 4 large bolts... those remove the venturi/ nozzle, so undo steering and reverse gate fitting, remove 4 bolts holding on venturi.... at the top you'll see where the 2 hoses/ veins come togather and excape the ski.... there "should" be 2 o-rings in there... if not you'll want to replace them and reinstall..(sounds like a hand full...it's not) it will prolly take you 30 minutes or so.... about the exhaust... go to ACE hardware..take one old bolt with you... go to tap section, buy a tap 1 size larger..no biggy, then tell the guy you'll need 5 bolts that match the tap size... stainless!!! probably lookin at $20-$25....very affordable... stop at the dealers house on the way and pick up a new gasket... go home run tap through till its smooth... i always use just a lil spray of pb blaster for some lube... install new gasket tighten down new bolts... and go ride......do it yourself, save some time money and greif.... a dealership will prolly charge you a few hundred bux, you could do this job quickly and easily in your garage with minimul tools, for under $50.... spend the extra on something nice like a weekend of gas, and some beers...good luck homie

 

[ondmove]

THanks... I do have the book. I'll check that out. On the tuned pipe head (exhaust), I have it nearly removed, except that dang bolt on the underside. It sits on a 'fork' portion of the pipe flange. Seems like with everything else off, and the gasket, torn out, I should be able to lift it off. Can't seem to get a wrench on the thing for the life of me. Is there a special tool to get that bolt off? PS. I cleaned the little bit of moisture out of the motor (ran with spark plugs out). Then ran with spark plugs in and it turned over after 3rd try. Ran it for 10 sec or so. I then repeated the whole sequence. Second time, it started up on first touch of the button.

 

[daverade]

cool are you talkin about the bolt on the huge hose clamp that connects the tuned pipe to the header if so use a ratchet wrench... if i were you i would to a lil internal lube with bombadier lube just to remove moisture so nothing gets corroded!!! oh and yea with the two pipes it might be a major bi%*h to seperate them they have a thin layer of silicone mating them:ack:

 

[ondmove]

The big hose clamp is just about ready to come off...it shouldn't be a problem. It's the other end (4 bolts) onto the head/carburator (not sure which?). Anyway, the three bolts are visible are out. The one on the bottom is nearly impossible to get at. How do I remove it, so I can get the pipe off? Secondly... the dealer wants $750 for the pipe and $50 for the gasket - CRAZY. Where else can I go to get these?

 

[daverade]

dont buy a new pipe tap the old one out... go online upper right hand corner to buy the gasket homie... i think i just used a regular allen key with a wrench as a breaker!!!

 

[ondmove]

The old pipe won't need tapping as the bolts got so loose and wore the clearance hole bigger than it needs to be. I may have to tap 1 or two of the holes in the xxxxxxxx. I'll get the gasket as you mentioned, online here. If you would all take a look at my first picture in the orignal message. One of the bolt holes on the flange actually broke out. Can it be put back on in this manner? Can it be welded back into place (and then bore a new hole in it)? Thoughts? What would you guys all do with that? Thanks.

 

[ondmove]

xxxxxxxx = exhaust manifold. I went to look up the 'exact name' and hit reply too fast. So, I may have to tap some of the holes in the exhaust manifold.

 

[ondmove]

Once again, that 1 nut that is under the head pipe is a pain. 3 of them are M10 socket head screws, but that last one actually has a threaded stud into the exhaust manifold. The flange of the head pipe fits over that double ended stud and then a nut goes on. Probably because there is no room for removing the bolt. Just enough room to turn the nut off. I see in the manual, they want you to buy a bent combination wrench to get this off. Anyone know an alternative - the book says it is an M10 nut.

 

[daverade]

harbor freight... new wrench set $10-$15 bux... i would do just that take the pipe to a fab shop have them weld a bridge where the bolt broke through then have them make new holes for it... will be inexpensive and done in a day or so, at the right shop...

 

[ondmove]

Thanks. I ordered the obstruction wrench set from Harbor freights. $15 bucks with shipping. That single wrench at 'stealer' would have cost that much, I'm sure. Just have to get the pipe off, and find an aluminum welder. As Arnold says, "I'll be back".

 

[daverade]

yea...harbor freight is my week night get away, i gotta lie when i go down there, never fails i always find something i need...lol, and to make things worse, my store is no more than 2 blocks from my house!!!!! yea just go to a fab shop and see if they TIG weld (aluminium welder)....

 

[ondmove]

I need to know what sealant (if any) goes on the gasket from the exhaust head to the tuned pipe exhaust.

 

[Bills86e]

Ya gotta get a Shop Manual, Your new best friend!

 

[ondmove]

I have the shop manual. It shows no sealant going on with the gasket, however, SeaDoo Warehouse.com shows differently. See attached picture. So..... looking for some experts to tell me if it is needed or not. Thanks.

 

[daverade]

mine has no silicone on the gasket

 

[ondmove]

I should have posted pictures of this while I worked on it, but my hands were so dirty, I would have ruined the camera. I ordered a set of obstruction (bent) wrenches ($15) to get the bottom bolt off the exhaust pipe, but was able to wiggle it loose before the wrenches arrived. I got the tuned exhaust head pipe repaired by a guy at work who welds aluminum ($20). I ordered a new gasket (but got the entire gasket kit) - ie. bolts, rubber boot for around flange, gasket, etc... ($50). You can get the gasket alone for $9-10. Having this and the exhuast cone out of the ski, I replaced the fuel lines with black automotive lines. I wanted to be sure it was running this weekend, so I decided not to pull the carbs (winter project). I did clean the RAVE valves. After a lot of elbow grease, I put some pre-mix in the cylinders and fired it on the third try in the garage. I took the ski to the lake and ran it for 15-20 minutes. It ran AWESOME! Out of the hole faster than before. It did seem to idle low (1300-1400rpm) - can I increase that a little? I'll try a longer run later this week.

 

[daverade]

1400, in the water thats ok 1500 is manual spec...follow your throttle cable to the carbs there will be the idle screw, turn it in a touch not too much...it is a "T" screw

 

[ondmove]

So much for running awesome.... it DID, until all the bolts came loose again. I think 1 day on the lake and a 2 1/2 hour trailer ride shook them loose. I'm leaning toward the holes in the exhaust manifold being too damaged (ie. my bolts through the tuned pipe) are grabbing in the manifold, but only way at the end - a few threads. Uggghhh.... I don't have the time to work on this, so I'm going to see what the dealer will suggest.