I have noticed that I have lost some speed in my Challenger 430, so thinking that it was time to take super chargers out for a rebuild and I found something I think could be really bad. Need a second opinion or more from people that know more than me. I took both super chargers t and found out they were different. Starboard side had a gear on it and port side did not. I took photos below and you can see that there is definitely a difference. I also found that the oil on port side is a bit milky. Showing that there is water in the oil. I have not had any problems with over heating or excess use of oil or coolant. I'm thinking this must of just happened. The question is can I drain the oil and replace with new, replace rebuilt super chargers and see what happens or should I tear down the engine. The problem is I do not know where the water came from and if there are gear parts floating around. I need some advice!
Supercharger problem
- Thread starter Kap258
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IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
I am pretty sure there's supposed to be a gear on each SC, but the fact that that engine still runs makes it hard to believe it just broke apart and fell into the motor. There are several gears turning inside that PTO cover, and a piece of steel would seize things up pretty quick. You can maybe take a magnet on the end of a flex pipe and try to stick it down into the bottom of that motor to see if you can pull up any metal chunks. There is another magnet already down there which is meant to catch any shavings or bits of steel that end up in the timing case, but if you lost a whole gear, there's likely to be chunks everywhere. There are some large plugs on the rear of the motor and one of them is a drain. Removing it, you will spew a mess of oil, but also chunks of metal, if you really did eat that gear. The milky oil is another problem, but may have been caused by metal punching holes in water jackets. What I would do is pressurize your oil system via the dipstick and make sure it holds like 3-5psi indefinitely. You can spray soapy water on the outside of the motor if you suspect it's leaking through a gasket, like the valvecover (weakest gasket in the motor). You'll have to plug your PCV line coming off the front (near the TOPS solenoid valve). It sounds to me like you're going to have to pull this motor.
Iceman_cb
Member
hey dude i just did the chargers on my 510hp 230 wake. you ARE suppose to have a gear on both chargers. it looks like port side gear has broken and fallen into the engine. it also looks like the drive gear for the charger is damaged. i hate to say this but your port side engine has to come out of the boat and be torn down. if your lucky parts of that gear have not made it into the oil pump and through the whole engine. there is a screen protecting the pump but you run the risk of totally destroying the engine. if you look at the port engine gear you can how the teeth are very sharp, it means the gears were not meshed properly causing un even wear. sorry for the bad news, but i wouldnt run that engine till you get it fixed
The 2nd sc lost the gear. Send it in to us and we can rebuild it for you. Check out our service here: Sea-Doo Supercharger Rebuild Service supercharger-rebuild-service
You will need to track down all the missing components.
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
I'm just stunned. Having rebuilt these superchargers before, I just can't believe that the gear in question can just break apart and fall in like that. Further, I can't believe it didn't instantly destroy the engine, let alone keep running. There is just SO MUCH going on in that timing cover... This is one for the record books. Does the supercharger still spin okay, or was there undue stress on the gear?
Not sure of number of hours, but I know it is over 100.
Supercharger spins fine. No play at all in spindle.
JPass
Well-Known Member
Not necessarily.
Your likely getting water into your oil system as opposed to oil in your cooling system.
The SCer drive gear pulls from the gear assembly on the front of the motor where the timing chain lives. That gear fragged out and went somewhere. In that process it may have broke a coolant passage that is now allowing for coolant to enter the motor and find it's way down into the pan.
It'll be interesting to see what you find as you dig into the issue.
Will be sending them to you soon. More worried about the internal engine parts that may have been damaged since I have water in my oil.
Any idea where to look for the water intrusion?
If it is coolant wouldn't I be running hot or noticing low coolant? The coolant level has not changed.
ski-d00
Well-Known Member
gears break and yes they sometimes still run. however, the more you run them the more damage is typically done. you will need to pull the motor out and completely go through it. I wouldn't worry too much about the milky oil. It will probably be obvious where the water came from when you tear the motor down.
what year is the boat? this will tell us if it had the ceramic or steel sc washers.
what year is the boat? this will tell us if it had the ceramic or steel sc washers.
2008
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
The water jacket is pressurized everywhere, but there are compartments where the oil is not pressurized at all, like the where all those gears are.. Water flows into those areas and makes the oil milky. If you can't readily find the source of the leak, you can always pressurize the water jacket and listen for a hiss.
Thank you everyone for your words of wisdom. I have started to pull the engine. I have almost everything disconnected and I am ready ti pull engine. The only concern I have run into is how to disengage or pull the drive shaft. I have looked and not found any shop manuals for this boat. Any ideas would be appreciated.
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
You have to take off the pump to pull that shaft, but before you do, remove the C-clip that holds that stainless collar against the carbon seal. You'll have to get crafty to push the collar back (compress that accordion boot) and knock off that C-clip. It's in a groove on the driveshaft, and just pops off with a screw driver. You'll have to use leverage, as that accordion boot is a tough customer. Once the C-clamp is off, slide that collar forward. Then, you can just slide the shaft out the rear. Be ready for a copious amount of oil to spew out of the shaft hole. Also, if the collar is loose and you go to pull the pump, the shaft might go with it, so put your rags down before you pull the pump.
JPass
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the youtube tutorial. Driveshaft was corroded and didn't want to come loose at the collar. Could never get it to move. Used a torch to heat it up and it finally moved and got off c ring. Now the jet pump will not budge. I think this boat may have spent to much time in salt water.
Never mind on jet pump issue. Feeling pretty stupid at the moment. My 16 year old son came home from school and I showed him the problem. He kicked it with his size 12 shoe and presto it was loose. I guess I should be wearing shoes instead of flip flops while I working on this. Lol
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