Started water before engine with flush kit - 2011 Sea-doo Wake Pro 215

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JesseAndrews

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I was preparing my sea-doo for the season and started the water before the engine and now I know there is water in my engine. I have done numerous oil changes and removed all chocolate milk like oil from the sea-doo. I have changed the spark plugs, shot some compressed air into the spark plug wells and watched more water pour out the back of the sea-doo. I have also shot some lubricating (water repellant) BRP spray into the spark plugs wells as well, charged my battery (even installed a new battery) and still the engine will not start. I get clicks and some thuds but it will not fire up, check engine light comes on and after trying to start the engine a few times the IBR light is now starting to appear but will disappear once i remove the key and try to start it again (only the check engine light will light up and check engine will read on the display).

I am starting to get extremely frustrated and just want to be able to put this thing in the water without having to take it to the dealership and pay $100 an hour in labour. Please if anyone has had this problem or knows of anything i should try to I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks in advance.
 
Never run the hose without the engine running first, take out the plugs and try turning it over as you probably hydrolocked the engine. IBR light is probably because your battery is too low to move it properly, you will need to change your oil.
 
If you tried to start it with the spark plugs installed you may have damaged somethig internal due to hydrolock.
Remove the plugs, hold the throttle full open (to cut fuel) and crank the engine until no more water spits out of the spark plug holes.
 
I’ve removed the plugs and cranked the engine (there is no more water coming out)... changed the oil about 4 times and still it won’t start... is there anything I can take apart to see if there’s more damage done to the engine?
 
by the sounds of it you might have drained the battery. make sure it's charged up and tests good. clicking then turning over and stopping if it wasn't hydro locked and no engine damage sounds like when you hit the compression stroke the battery doesn't have enough juice to turn the engine over well enough
 
if it is cranking over and not starting then you check for fuel spark and compression. If you hydro locked the motor and tried to start it you might have severe engine damage so pull the plugs check spark and compression at the same time.
 
I read this in the manual:

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So now I'm wondering why you have to start the engine first before you turn on the water for flushing. The manual says all the valves are closed when the engine is off. Something doesn't seem right because I know man manual also tells you to start the engine before you turn on the water.
 
That’s not in my 2011 Wake Pro service manual, but this is.

“This will prevent the exhaust system filling with water, which may lead to water being injected into and filling the engine. Without the engine running there isn’t any exhaust pressure to push the water out the exhaust outlet.”
This quote is in the towing section on restricted speeds. When you flush the exhaust system without the engine running I would think you are essentially doing the same thing, filling your exhaust system with water and water flooding the engine.

“Exhaust System Draining”

If water is suspected to be in the exhaust system, remove the exhaust pipe and the muffler. Drain them or siphon the water out of them. Refer to exhaust system subsection.

I would think if you left the hose on long enough without the engine running you would eventually pressurize the exhaust system to your hose water pressure and actually force water into the engine?
 
Very poor engineering in my opinion from BRP.

“NOTICE Failure to flush the system, when necessary, will severely damage intercooler and exhaust system. Make sure engine operates during entire procedure.”

Every body make mistakes and these skis should be bulletproof at $14,000 a pop. How an owner can do that much damage to his ski by one simple mistake doing required routine maintenance is insane.
 
Very poor engineering in my opinion from BRP.

“NOTICE Failure to flush the system, when necessary, will severely damage intercooler and exhaust system. Make sure engine operates during entire procedure.”

Every body make mistakes and these skis should be bulletproof at $14,000 a pop. How an owner can do that much damage to his ski by one simple mistake doing required routine maintenance is insane.

I am not sure how this is poor engineering when you made the mistake. It would be like blaming Chevy when you changed your oil and forgot to put new oil back in saying, the car shouldn't be able to start without oil, "poor engineering".

Every PWC ever made except the 1969 air cooled Seadoo has operated the same way. When flushing it is always ski on, then water on, water off then ski off.
 
Problem for me was I have always had boats which is the opposite of a PWC for flushing or running the motor, I never did it wrong but I could see how someone could make the mistake easily. Especially if you always owned boats where you NEVER started the engine without the water running.
 
Really? My mastercraft has always been started before the water and turned off after the water and never had the slightest wear on the raw water impeller or a water pump replaced. It has only been for a few seconds without water and will never do any damage.
 
well that goes against everything I was ever read or told for the raw water impellers lol. I forget where but maybe in the service manual on my 115 Johnson showed a timeline of damage to the impeller while running without water, within 5 seconds it shows warpage after 30 it shows chaos!
 
+1 for the poor engineering. I too have owned plenty of boats and have replaced my share of water pump impellers ( both I/O and outboards) because the engine ran for only a few seconds without water. With all the other gizmos inside a modern ski it’s hard to imagine a simple solenoid that stays closed until the engine is running ( preventing hose water from going where it should not) was not incorporated into a $14,000 sled.
 
Back to the issue at hand.
Does that sled have spark?
Does it have compression?
Does it have fuel?
Is there something restricting the air flow?
Take away all the "stuff' and it's a very easy to narrow down the potential problems to major areas.
Every engine needs
AIR, Fuel, Spark, Compression and proper timing.
Find out which one is missing and go down that path.
BT
 
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