?? Start it up out of water??
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I always fire mine up before and after I get to the lake and then on occasion after it has sit for about two weeks. It lets me know I'm not the guy holding up the ramp with a ski that won't start, gets water out of the motor after being out, and keeps gas circulated in the carb(s) so it doesnt varnish. No problems yet...
Here is the correct answer to running you seadoo on the hose;
Hook up the hose to the seadoo and have it run for up to 5 minutes. Connect the hose and start the seadoo. Turn on the water after it is started. Turn off the water, than shut down the seadoo. This way it won't allow water to back flow into the engine through the exhaust due to no back pressure from the engine not running. The bearings and seals on the impeller jet pump are cooled from being in the water. When it is on the trailer it doesn't have that cooling effect so they will get hot after about 5 minutes.
I pre start my seadoo's too, dry before I leave for the launch too. Just for a second or 2 to be sure it will start at launch. Peace of mind is worth lot.
Remember the correct proceedure so as not to flood the engine.
Karl
Hook up the hose to the seadoo and have it run for up to 5 minutes. Connect the hose and start the seadoo. Turn on the water after it is started. Turn off the water, than shut down the seadoo. This way it won't allow water to back flow into the engine through the exhaust due to no back pressure from the engine not running. The bearings and seals on the impeller jet pump are cooled from being in the water. When it is on the trailer it doesn't have that cooling effect so they will get hot after about 5 minutes.
I pre start my seadoo's too, dry before I leave for the launch too. Just for a second or 2 to be sure it will start at launch. Peace of mind is worth lot.
Remember the correct proceedure so as not to flood the engine.
Karl
Run time on the 2 cycle engines....
Karl, I think you may be referring to the shaft seals on the 4-TEC engines. They use a water sealed thru hull fitting, that is used to cool the shaft seal. The older model Seadoos, 717, 787, 951, 587, 657......all use the older mechanical seals. This time frame of 5 minutes is only quoted on the 4-TECS.
Althoug, I agree that we shouldn't let them run indefinitly, you can let them run for a while. The carbon ring and seal won't normally damage from not being in the water.
Karl, I think you may be referring to the shaft seals on the 4-TEC engines. They use a water sealed thru hull fitting, that is used to cool the shaft seal. The older model Seadoos, 717, 787, 951, 587, 657......all use the older mechanical seals. This time frame of 5 minutes is only quoted on the 4-TECS.
Althoug, I agree that we shouldn't let them run indefinitly, you can let them run for a while. The carbon ring and seal won't normally damage from not being in the water.
Mirage
New Member
What about the 03 GTI LE RFI, how are they cooled, and what is the max. run time on them for the hose??? My guess is still no more than 5 minutes...
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Seadoosnipe...pm sent...
Water cooling run time.....
Mirage...........there seems to be a lot of different views on the run time on an engine for flushing. I think, here, common sense and logic is very necessary to figure out how long you "need" to run your craft.
If you take your pwc/boat to a marine repair shop and they are going to tune your engine, do you think they abide by some time limit set forth in a book? No, they do what they need to in order to get the boat/pwc back to the owner.
Some shops have a test tank for pwc's, but I'm sure they dont' have one for the boats.
The manual.........: The manual for the 4-TEC, 1503 recommends that you run the engine for no more than 2 minutes at a fast idle to flush the exhaust system. But..........and here's the catcher between the 4-TEC's verses the older skis, there is a "CAUTION" clause that states not to run longer then the recommended time out of the water becaue the "drive line seal", which is normally cooled when the boat/pwc is in the water, will have no cooling water supplied to it.
Now, if you read the manual on say, and you can pick one (I choose the 1998 PWC's), the 787cc engine, you'll read that for flushing the engine, to start the motor and flush for 3 minutes, in which time your also suppose to fog the engine. But, the older skis/boats have no "drive line seal" (they have carbon ring and carrier) and in the manual, have no "CAUTION" about running the engine longer than the prescribed time.
Personally, while tuning my carbs, I let my boat run for 30 minutes. There were no adverse affects to the boat. No smell of anything heating up or burning. Their is no drive line seal, but even the boot at the carbon seal wasn't hot.
This isn't giving you a "o.k., or go ahead" on doing anything other than the manual states but I can promise that if you take your boat/ski to a shop and there working or tuning it, they do not abide by any rule that doesn't have a specific caution.
The drive line seal on the newer boats/pwc's are of a newer configuration and not anyway operates lke the older carbon seal rings do. But, here, I'd use your own best judgment on how long you run it.
Under normal conditions, I only flush for about 5 or 10 minutes. That doesn't say you have to. I ride in salt water and want to make sure there are no chloride deposits left in the engine..............:cheers:
Mirage...........there seems to be a lot of different views on the run time on an engine for flushing. I think, here, common sense and logic is very necessary to figure out how long you "need" to run your craft.
If you take your pwc/boat to a marine repair shop and they are going to tune your engine, do you think they abide by some time limit set forth in a book? No, they do what they need to in order to get the boat/pwc back to the owner.
Some shops have a test tank for pwc's, but I'm sure they dont' have one for the boats.
The manual.........: The manual for the 4-TEC, 1503 recommends that you run the engine for no more than 2 minutes at a fast idle to flush the exhaust system. But..........and here's the catcher between the 4-TEC's verses the older skis, there is a "CAUTION" clause that states not to run longer then the recommended time out of the water becaue the "drive line seal", which is normally cooled when the boat/pwc is in the water, will have no cooling water supplied to it.
Now, if you read the manual on say, and you can pick one (I choose the 1998 PWC's), the 787cc engine, you'll read that for flushing the engine, to start the motor and flush for 3 minutes, in which time your also suppose to fog the engine. But, the older skis/boats have no "drive line seal" (they have carbon ring and carrier) and in the manual, have no "CAUTION" about running the engine longer than the prescribed time.
Personally, while tuning my carbs, I let my boat run for 30 minutes. There were no adverse affects to the boat. No smell of anything heating up or burning. Their is no drive line seal, but even the boot at the carbon seal wasn't hot.
This isn't giving you a "o.k., or go ahead" on doing anything other than the manual states but I can promise that if you take your boat/ski to a shop and there working or tuning it, they do not abide by any rule that doesn't have a specific caution.
The drive line seal on the newer boats/pwc's are of a newer configuration and not anyway operates lke the older carbon seal rings do. But, here, I'd use your own best judgment on how long you run it.
Under normal conditions, I only flush for about 5 or 10 minutes. That doesn't say you have to. I ride in salt water and want to make sure there are no chloride deposits left in the engine..............:cheers:
dieselman
New Member
One quick point Gents on the new 4-Tecs the motors are closed loop so thay dont get any salt water in the block only the exhaust so flushing is kept to a minimal. What is closed loop you ask think of it like the rad on your car the system uses the ride plate to cool the motor so no lake/sea water enters the motor only the exhaust
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