Speedster Anit Siphon Valve

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marceb16

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Does anyone know where I can get an new anti siphon valve for my 2000 Speedster (PN 204560122)?

My boat wont run right (erratic). It is cutting in and out anytime above low-mid power ... when it's calling for more fule.

The Mercury M2 troubleshooting guide says it could be the anti siphon valve.

I've change the fuel filters so this is next on the list to replace ... but I can't seem to find one.

Please feel free to call or text me with any leads.

Thank you!
Marolous
570-419-5705
 
Its just a big check valve, and it's not really needed. But, you can replace it with a generic "Bulb" for an outboard. That will keep fuel from draining back. But before you condemn it... just check it. Pull it off, make sure it's clean, and working.

But all kinds of things make the engine run strange. But we need to start with exactly what engine you have.
 
Thank you very much for your reply Dr. Honda!

It has a Murcur M2 in it and I am located in PA.

I pulled the valve and found nothin apparent in it. I then put compressed air on the back side of it and the ball took a good seat/seal, under pressure.

I then put suction on the other side and herd the ball valve fluttering on and off the seat.

Then I ran the ball in and out with a pick and it seemed to be working up and down with full travel freely.

Then I blew back into the tank to see if the sending unti screen may be plugged a bit (which I had out 2 yrs ago for a rebuild ... so it’s not like it’s been in there very long).

Next up, I drained some fuel from the vapor separator drain, just in case, and it looked good.

Next up I replaced the water separator (which was 2 or 3 seasons old) and took it out for a test.

No change ... still hesitating bad coming off low power settings

So I chanced the fuel filter down steam of the check valve, at the pump, quick (even though it was replaced late last year) and took it back out.

Again, no change ... still hesitating.

We leave for our annual Canada lake vacation in less then two week ... so I am in a bit of a jam now.

In the interest of time, is there anyway you can call me to talk next steps?

Thanks in advance!

Marolous
570-419-5705
 
marceb16 said:
Thank you very much for your reply Dr. Honda!

It has a Mercuryy M2 in it and I am located in PA.
Click to expand...

The "M2" is the drive... not the engine... so once again... what engine is it? in '00, it could have been a 210 carb, 200 Opti, or Gen1 240 EFI. BUT... other engines fit that drive system, so someone else could have changed it to something else.

marceb16 said:
......

We leave for our annual Canada lake vacation in less then two week ... so I am in a bit of a jam now.

......
Click to expand...

We would have figured this out... but you waited 10 days to respond back.

So... lets start with what engine you have... and what have you checked other than the drain back valve in the fuel line?
 
Thanks again for your quick reply and Sorry for not responding sooner ... I never got a reply notice and was out of town last week for work ... so today was my first day back at it

It’s a 240 EFI

I’ve checked the valve, spark plugs and changed the fuel filter.

Thanks again for your help.
 
OK... if it was a 210... I would say you have a bad switch box. But with a 240... that's not the case.

Both vids sound like the ignition is cutting out, and at a little over half throttle. Look where your fuses are... as see if you can find a small dark gray box, with a few wires coming out of it... and no ID other than a part number. One of the wires with be black with a yellow line. If you have it... cut it loose, and toss it in the trash. It's a throttle guardian, and it cause issues when it start to go bad.

The other thing it could be is a loose connection at the high pressure fuel pump... but that generally will give you issues all the time, and not just at higher RPM's.

The last thing I would check is the pickup coil. A wire could be scuffed... and as you advance the throttle, it contacts something. Look at that loom that goes under the flywheel just next to the 2 gray boxes bolted to each other.
 
Ok I am tracking u for the most part.

2 questions

1) are you talking about the location of the fuses in the engine bay (on the engine) ... to fine the throttle guardian or somewhere “in” the boat?

2) where is the “pickup coil” located and does it look like ... or are u talking about each coil pack for each Cyl/spark plug lead?

I can’t thank u enough for your help and these quick relies!!!!
 
1) Look in the helm for the throttle guardian. It's normally where the gauge electronics are. It's similar in shape and size to the 2 on top of the engine that are bolted together.

2) The pickup coil is under the flywheel. It triggers the spark. BUT, it physically moves with the throttle, advancing the timing. Since it moves, the wires can break... get scuffed by the flywheel... or the coils themselves can be broken.
 
Compartment in front of drive ...
 

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I don’t see a gray box.

Just this little round black one ... that’s wired in line with the ignition switch. Wires are 1 purple and 1 white & blue

Do I need to pull the flywheel (with puller) to inspect the pickup coil or is it visible with just the cover removed?
 
I pooped the throttle/shifter assembly and see this ...
 

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OK... I don't see the throttle guardian. Because they cause issues... they normally get removed before now. It's just a little box to keep the RPM's low in reverse.

The round thing is the second buzzer and it takes car of engine warnings.

The plug under your shifter is a strange one. Looks like a data port since the wires are all the same colors... but I will have to dig into it. (It's just a capped plug)


OK... we need to isolate any potential problems. If you look at the engine picture you posted... there is a white sticker with the engine info on it. There are 2 wires coming across that sticker. Disconnect the black/yellow wire, and see if you still get the problem. That is the kill wire going down to the coils. If there is something causing the engine to cut out, that is in the wiring... we will know. If it's still cutting out, with that open... then we need to look at the pickup coils, and the igniting coils. Yes, to get a good inspection of the pickup coils... you need to pop off the fly wheel. If you are close to Westmorland county... I do have the flywheel tool. PM me if you are.

I still want you to take a look at the wires going into the fuel injection harness, and the wires at the fuel pump. Those aren't easy to get to on your boat since it's partly covered by the body. The wires on the high pressure pump are just on with a terminal and nut. It could have loosened, or gotten a little corrosion under them.
 
FYI... I would try some simple things. Remove/replace the fuses on the engine. Open/close the connectors between the ECU and engine... open/close the connector on the side of the engine. (big round one) And... open/close the connectors on the top of the engine.

Sometimes you get corrosion, or a loose connection, and simply pulling the connection apart, and putting it back together can cure a problem.
 
Thanks again for the quick reply!

Is there a safe way to test run the engine out of the water, at higher RPM?

I ask as it is somewhat of an ordeal to put my boat in and out for quick test (takes hours) BUT I recall the book saying to never run the engine above ideal out of the water ... with the hose hooked up of course.

Thanks again
 
Well... unfortunately... since your issue isn't showing up until it's above (guessing) 4000 RPM.... it needs a load to feel it. (sorry) Also... with that black/yellow wire disconnected... you have bypassed the rev-limiter also.... so out of the water... without that box... it can really spin WAY past 6000 rpm.
 
Ok thanks. I'm going to remove the anti siphon valve (direct plumb), change the plugs just in case and try it again after work ... in the rain of course (my luck).

If it still surges I will disconnect the black/yellow wire and try it again.

If still no luck, what are the chances of you being able to work on it this week if I deliver it to you in Pittsburgh?

I only ask as I'm at risk of blowing the family lake vacation if I cannot get this issue sorted out and fixed before the end of next week.

Also, is there a number I can reach you at tonight, while I have it in the water, if this stuff doesn't do the trick?

My number is 570-419-5705 if you'd rather text or call me ... and not post your number.

Thanks again for the help!
 
I don't work on other people's boats anymore. I closed my shop a few years back. I just offered my flywheel puller if you were local to help.
 
Ok thanks.

I changed the spark plus tonight and went over all the main connectors like u suggest. They all looked good. The twist lock on the main harness to ECU connector was haeever a bit lose (few turns).

I then bypassed the anti siphon valve and tried it out tonight and it ran as it should !!!!

I then plumbed the anti siphon valve back inline and tested it again ... and it continued to run as it should.

So either the spark plugs were all but bad or there was a in fact a lose or intermittant connection somewhere.

Nonetheless it’s back it action.

I can’t thank you enough for your help!

Thanks again!
 
Well... I'm glad it worked out. Generally bad plugs give a hart to start issue too... but as you said... could have just been a bad connection.
 
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