Solenoid/testing question

[nspeedrace]

Attached is a video of my father and I trying to test the solenoid from our 1997 GTX sea-doo. we have been having trouble getting it started while trying to dewinterize it. The engine starts to turn sputters out some smoke and then turns off, if I press the ignition it will do that one more time but then after that it gets the "click click click" sound which lead me to believe the solenoid went.My question is did I test it correctly? if I did would it be safe to assume its a bad solenoid. I did not here any clicking from the solenoid, but I wasn't sure if the sound would be masked because its the plastic molded one. Thanks for any advice. [video=youtube;tY7oVKb3dtU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tY7oVKb3dtU&feature=youtu.be[/video]

 

[Coastiejoe]

The wires that you are using to test the solenoid, where are they coming from or connected to? A tester (DVOM)?

The solenoid is a Normally Open Switch (NOS). It closes when the trigger wire receives 12 volts, (one of the small wires that plugs into the solenoid, I have seen it both a yellow color and a pink color (the black is the ground). My point to all of this detail is, you shold get NOTHING when jumping the terminals you are jumping in the video. It should be OPEN, as in no voltage or continuity between them UNTIL you activate the trigger wire (push the start button).

So,,, if there is voltage or continuity between the two large terminals and you are NOT trying to start it, the solenoid is stuck or mostly stuck closed... (AKA-defective).

Follow me?

 

[LouDoo]

Honestly I'm not sure what you are trying to do. If you're testing with an ohm meter the solenoid will remain in an open condition until power is applied through the connector at the bottom of the solenoid, this will energize the solenoid, and even then it's not going to be an accurate test because there is no indication of how much current the solenoid will be able to handle.

The best way to test the solenoid is to install it back on the ski. Short across the two main terminals with a screw driver, if the starter turns the motor over most likely you have a bad solenoid.

Lou

 

[Mekanix]

Nope.

You need to measure across the two bolt posts with your meter set on continuity or Resistance.

Then you need to add power to the little pins in the connector on the bottom of the relay.

Doesn't matter which one is positive or negative. Just use some small aligator clips on each of the pins and connect them to a battery. That will make the relay click.

The idea is that your turning on that electromagnet inside the relay and that is pushing a plate that shorts out between the two bolt post's.


Here check this out.
[video=youtube;25hxvZG2Ysw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25hxvZG2Ysw[/video]



Best thing to do is just replace the thing. You can fix it but its not worth the effort because they are cheap.

 

[Mekanix]

Honestly I'm not sure what you are trying to do. If you're testing with an ohm meter the solenoid will remain in an open condition until power is applied through the connector at the bottom of the solenoid, this will energize the solenoid, and even then it's not going to be an accurate test because there is no indication of how much current the solenoid will be able to handle.

The best way to test the solenoid is to install it back on the ski. Short across the two main terminals with a screw driver, if the starter turns the motor over most likely you have a bad solenoid.

Lou

Like dis

[video=youtube;n-Ar8A2Gzx0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-Ar8A2Gzx0[/video]

 

[nspeedrace]

thanks everyone, tomorrow i'm going to try this. as for coastiejoes response the wires (not the alligator clips) are coming directly from my jet ski battery which I brought inside with me, the alligators are from the multimeter on the continuity setting. I assumed that is how I would energize it.

 

[Coastiejoe]

thanks everyone, tomorrow i'm going to try this. as for coastiejoes response the wires (not the alligator clips) are coming directly from my jet ski battery which I brought inside with me, the alligators are from the multimeter on the continuity setting. I assumed that is how I would energize it.

Multimeters are designed to READ information, not energize. Technically, meters can energize things but were talking very technical at that point. Has to do with impedance and things to that nature.

I believe that the above explanations are clear enough for you to understand on how to test it.

However, I thought I heard a BEEP when you touched the meter leads to the two upper posts. If that is the case, then the solenoid is defective as it should be an OPEN switch until powered by an external source. So, if it did BEEP, it is junk. If I heard wrong, then do the tests as others have mentioned above.

Do you feel you know what to do or do you need it laid out better for you?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Betcha that clickity-click-click of the solenoid is telling you your battery is too weak or there's a battery cable connection that's lose and needs cleaning/tightening.

I say go over all the battery cable connections starting with the battery and clean/tighten as necessary, your battery may need replacement.

As for the startup, I think you should remove the spark plugs and spin that motro over for a few seconds to see if 2-stroke oil comes shooting out, the crankcase could be flooded with 2-stroke oil. Cover the plug holes over using an old cloth in case a ton of oil comes shooting out.

After that, you should be able to get it running, make sure there's fuel in the fuel tank, oil in the oil tank, and the fuel selector valve is on.

 

[rhonus]

Honestly I'm not sure what you are trying to do. If you're testing with an ohm meter the solenoid will remain in an open condition until power is applied through the connector at the bottom of the solenoid, this will energize the solenoid, and even then it's not going to be an accurate test because there is no indication of how much current the solenoid will be able to handle.

The best way to test the solenoid is to install it back on the ski. Short across the two main terminals with a screw driver, if the starter turns the motor over most likely you have a bad solenoid.

Lou

I had a similar problem. Replace the solenoid. Same issue click click. Turned out it was the starter motor. Replace hey presto.
Try Lou's test using a screw driver across the terminals and listen to see if you can hear the starter motor spin but not pop out to engage the engine.
R

 

[nspeedrace]

I had a similar problem. Replace the solenoid. Same issue click click. Turned out it was the starter motor. Replace hey presto.
Try Lou's test using a screw driver across the terminals and listen to see if you can hear the starter motor spin but not pop out to engage the engine.
R

ok I'll try that today how much did the starter run you?

 

[kicker]

I hate to muddy the waters here, I agree with Sportster, I would start with the battery. If the battery gets down to the 11v range while under load (trying to start the ski) the mpem will shut down and not allow the engine to turn over.

Put the meter on the battery and set it to DC Volts and hit the start button and see what the reading is.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I hate to muddy the waters here, I agree with Sportster, I would start with the battery. If the battery gets down to the 11v range while under load (trying to start the ski) the mpem will shut down and not allow the engine to turn over.

Put the meter on the battery and set it to DC Volts and hit the start button and see what the reading is.

Yep yep,,,,
I specifically answered your test question and didn't think deeper. A weal battery, poor connection, or a bad cable will cause no start, poor start, and solenoid issues.

Get the battery load tested.