Sealant on cylinder base gasket?

[OldSchool]

So I tore down an SBT 951 from a 99 GTX limited today. Unfortunately, when I quit working at a SeaDoo dealership, it was 1997 and I had only serviced one 951 and it was on a GSXL. Never tore the engine down.

In that time, I had never seen any sealants used on the surface between cylinder and case. Only the Loctite 515 between the case halves. Which as I understand it is no longer used and it appears that folks are using 3 Bond 1211.

Is this something new? It would seem that sealant could cause a squish issue. I I haven't looked at the original service manual yet, but I would like to know if this is recommended in that application because I will be building a 951 soon. If it calls for that, fine, but I have never done it. In fact, the 787,717,657 and 587 all were dry and also had bolts to fasten the cylinder to the case, where the 951 uses the studs through the cylinder and is secured by the head.

I would like to hear from either Dr. H, LouDoo or Minnetonka4me on this one, but if anyone knows for sure, I would like it cleared up. This engine has been running for 3 years that I know of and just ingested water this week, but appears to possibly have an air leak which is why this engine is apart in the first place.

 

[Dr Honda]

in my shop I use:

A) 1211/1194 for cases'. (when there is no gasket) Oh... for an FYI, if you need it cosmetic, Polaris has a version that is black to be used on Motorcycle cases. (that way you don't have gray goo all over when you are done)

B) Copper spray on metal head gaskets. (so, the 951) OR... on metal clad exhust gaskets. (not used in seadoo)

c) PTFE paste to seal threads. (fuel and oil system) Dont' use tape !!. If a hunk comes off, it will plug up the parts.

D) Black RTV to seal pump fittings. (but not to seal the pump to the hull) That can be switched to copper RTV if it's a hot part. I also use a small dab of RTV to hold O-rings in place during assembly.

E) all other gaskets go on dry and clean.




So... to answer the question directly.... the base gasket goes on dry. BUT... if you suspect a warp in a part, and are trying to get an old engine to run... a VERY THIN coating of 1211 can be used to make sure it doesn't squish out later. BUT, I don't really recommend that. I recommend, fixing the problem, so the gasket can do it's job. (especially if it's out of the hull, and all apart)


That's my story, and I'm stickn' to it.

 

[OldSchool]

in my shop I use:

A) 1211/1194 for cases'. (when there is no gasket) Oh... for an FYI, if you need it cosmetic, Polaris has a version that is black to be used on Motorcycle cases. (that way you don't have gray goo all over when you are done)

B) Copper spray on metal head gaskets. (so, the 951) OR... on metal clad exhust gaskets. (not used in seadoo)

c) PTFE paste to seal threads. (fuel and oil system) Dont' use tape !!. If a hunk comes off, it will plug up the parts.

D) Black RTV to seal pump fittings. (but not to seal the pump to the hull) That can be switched to copper RTV if it's a hot part. I also use a small dab of RTV to hold O-rings in place during assembly.

E) all other gaskets go on dry and clean.




So... to answer the question directly.... the base gasket goes on dry. BUT... if you suspect a warp in a part, and are trying to get an old engine to run... a VERY THIN coating of 1211 can be used to make sure it doesn't squish out later. BUT, I don't really recommend that. I recommend, fixing the problem, so the gasket can do it's job. (especially if it's out of the hull, and all apart)


That's my story, and I'm stickn' to it.

And if you have a story to tell, I am listening very clearly.

Thanks!

I tore that engine down 100%. It would appear that SBT uses 1211 VERY generously. It was everywhere in the case, even around the edges of all the rubber crank seals. I am not talking about just at the mating surfaces, it was in all the grooves intentionally.

Is this something that others have seen with the SBT 951's?

If so, I am questioning whether or not to recommend using them as a replacement to the owner, whom I rely on for easy lakecaccess. I can build him one of higher quality on my own, but I don't offer a warranty. This engine has lasted no less than 3 years in his machine, but it just seems to me that using sealant in those areas is a recipe for failure at some point.

 

[Dr Honda]

I've had good luck with SBT engines. I had one that pop'ed shortly after the warranty... but after a phone call... they gave HUGE discounts on new parts.


In my shop... I almost never do a rebuild for a customer. Unless, they want something high performance. The main reason are...

1) I will have WAY more "Billable" hours into the engine than I can really charge for.

2) No real warranty.


With an SBT... if the customer fills the oil tank with water, and the engine eat's itself... or just forgets to put oil in the tank... SBT will send a new engine out. (that's hard to beat)


If your customer is a "buddy"... then sure... build him an engine. If it's just a normal customer... then go SBT. (less issues later)