Seadoo Wake 155 issues

[moukie]

New member here - very thankful for all advice.

I purchased a 2004 Wake 155 from original owner last week. PO maintained it immaculately; only 76 total hours and looks new. I expected no issues, but finally got it to lake yesterday and had some. Ski started and ran fine for a few minutes, but at a lower than expected RPM. I am using the correct key. Pulling in to the dock, ski wants to cut off. Will not idle good.
Went to re-start and ride kids around and ski is slow to crank. Tried it a few times and battery discharged too much, so I pulled cables off and hooked up a charger for 15 minutes. Ski started right up and proceeded to run OK, but still at a slow RPM. Then the 12V low voltage alarm light came on. Ski would run about 35 MPH and ran quite well. A few times, the ski would surge forward to about 55 MPH, like I believe it should. But, it would only stay there for a few seconds, then drop back to 35. As a conservative measure, we shut it down after only about 10 minutes of running and put it back on the trailer. Needless to say, kids were none too happy after driving 1.5 hours to learn to ski.

I spoke to PO this morning and here is the current situation:
Battery is new this June, from O-Reilly's. Is a maint-free gel type. He had seen the low voltage alarm earlier this year, but it went away after he rode a while so he assumed charging system worked properly to charge the battery.
As for the speed limitation and surging. He says the gas may be a bit stale. The symptoms I experienced fit the tune of old/stale gas perfectly. There was about 7-8 gallons in when I bought and I added another 5 new yesterday before we hit the lake.

Questions:
1) Should I remove and charge the battery and then have load tested?
2) Should I check charging system before I remove, and how?
3) Would the low voltage possibly cause the low RPM/surging I experienced?
4) Should I remove and replace fuel? How best method?
5) Should I add some fuel injector cleaner to a new tank of fuel?
6) Is there a fuel filter?

I have always done all of my own vehicle maintenance; some of it very extensive, and would like to do all this myself. I have accessed the manual and am very excited about having my first jet ski and my 2 kids are even more excited. I just want to make sure I head down the correct path with all the experience you all can offer.

Again, thank you very much for any help you can offer.

David

 

[BigDfromTN]

Welcome to Seadoo forum!

Im sure others will be along soon and give you better answers than mine, but here goes.

1. Yes
2. I would fully charge battery first and then test charging system.
3. Not sure it will on these skis but once had a motor cycle that would act that way with a bad battery.
4. I would add some seafoam and top it off with as much fresh fuel as possible.
5. I use seafoam in both my skis along and my outboard as well.
6. As far as I know the only fuel filter is a sock in the tank.

Best of luck and keep us posted.

 

[moukie]

OK. I put a meter on the battery last night and I have 11.9V. I cranked motor for just long enough to get voltage and had 13.6, so I am assuming the charging system is functioning. I have the battery out and on a charger, and will take it and have it load tested. I plan to remove the fuel and replace with new, along with injector cleaner.

Thanks for the reply BigDfromTN. All advice is appreciated. Looking forward to taking back to the lake soon and having better results!

 

[red2blue]

Since the fuel "may be a lil stale", I'd bet a fresh set of plugs will help too. Double check all electrical connections as well.

 

[BigDfromTN]

OK. I put a meter on the battery last night and I have 11.9V. I cranked motor for just long enough to get voltage and had 13.6, so I am assuming the charging system is functioning. I have the battery out and on a charger, and will take it and have it load tested. I plan to remove the fuel and replace with new, along with injector cleaner.

Thanks for the reply BigDfromTN. All advice is appreciated. Looking forward to taking back to the lake soon and having better results!

Yep sounds like it is charging...
Also changing the fuel out would be a safer bet.
As r2b said, plugs may be a good investment as well.

 

[mkov608]

Your battery voltage is low, but your charging system is within specifications; if I remember correctly, you have to run the engine at the specified RPM when checking charging system output; the manual specifies a certain voltage range as a specified RPM, so if you're getting 13.6 at idle, I'll bet you're good.

Good plan to get the battery tested. Also, invest in a Genius charger; you'll need it to keep the battery up when the ski sits for extended periods.

Test you fuel pump pressure; procedures are in the manual.

Get a can of Sea-Foam Spray, and follow the instructions; by Sea-Foaming the engine I discovered an exhaust leak at the J-pipe (80 hrs on the ski); I had to replace the pipe. The exhaust leak limited my top end performance. I doubt this is your problem but it's a quick, inexpensive, and easy check.

Keep in mind to pull your jet pump and service it at the end of the season; it's due at 100 hrs, but your ski is 11 years old, and I'll bet the jet pump seal has deteriorated to the point where water can enter the pump.

 

[moukie]

Ok, now I am a bit concerned. Battery checks out fine, took full charge and load tested ok. I went ahead and changed plugs on your advice. 1 and 3 looked fine, dry and very light. Number 2 was light but covered with oil. Oil did not look burnt and did not smell very gassy. Not sure what this means.
Does this sound as if it could just be a fouled plug, or maybe cylinder 2 not firing properly, or other?
I bought Seafoam to add once I get gas changed out and back to the lake...

Any additional advice is appreciated. Thank you.

 

[mkov608]

Based on your description of the plugs, you could have a problem; a compression check will help you determine if you have internal damage or excessive wear. With only 76 hours, I doubt you have a wear problem, but stuff happens. On the electrical side, you may have a problem with the #2 cylinder coil; check the electrical connection first; if that's good, swap the #1 & #2 coils, take it for a ride, and then check the condition of the #1 plug.

 

[moukie]

Thinking through this a bit more, it seems reasonable that a coil may be the issue. With the intermittent surging to higher RPM, this should suggest the issue to not be wear or internal damage related, wouldn't it? Thanks Mkov608 for suggesting I swap the coils. This sounds like a very logical approach. Unnfortunately, water is over 1 hour away so my time to test is limited and must be used efficiently. Is there a way with a meter to test the coils before I head to the lake? I can always pull two of them and compare for differences, but if there is a recommended way to test I would like to review it first.

Thank you for the advice.
David

 

[BigDfromTN]

What mkov said was all good advice.

I think I would get a fresh set of plugs, and a fresh set of spares. Coils do go bad but plugs foul a lot more often.

I don't know of any way to bench test a coil. There may be, but I don't know of it.

 

[mkov608]

Any coil can be tested, we just need to know the procedure and the specifications; I'll look for one and get back to you. In the mean time, check this out.

http://www.shopsbt.com/forum/t16768/

 

[mkov608]

Found it!

NOTE: The MPEM energizes the primary side of
each ignition coil individually. It can detect open
and short circuit in the primary winding but it does
not check the secondary winding.

Using the vehicle communication kit (VCK) with
the B.U.D.S. software, energize the ignition coil
from the Activation tab.
You should hear the spark occurring. In doubt, use
an inductive spark tester or a sealed tester - available
from tool suppliers to prevent spark occurring
in the bilge. Otherwise, perform the following
checks.

An ignition coil with good resistance measurement
can still be faulty. Voltage leak can occur
at high voltage level which is not detectable with
an ohmmeter. Replacing the ignition coil may be
necessary as a test.

WARNING

CAUTION: Do not remove the ignition coil before
disconnecting the connector, or the wires
will be damaged. Do not pry up ignition coil
with a screwdriver to avoid damage.

Remove ignition coil from spark plug.

View attachment 32789 Terminal 1 (top)
1. Spark plug terminal Terminal 2 (bottom)

Using a multimeter, check the resistance in both
primary and secondary windings.
For primary winding check the resistance between
terminals 1 and 2 of the ignition coil.
The resistance should be between 0.85 and
1.15 at 20°C (68°F).
For secondary winding check the resistance between
terminal 1 and spark plug terminal.
The resistance should be between 9.5 and 13.5 k
at 20°C (68°F).
If the resistance of one of both windings is not
good, replace the defective ignition coil.
If the windings test good, try a new engine ECM.
NOTE: Prior to inserting the ignition coil to its location,
apply some silicone lubricant (P/N 293 600
041) around the seal area that touches the spark
plug hole. After installation, ensure the seal seats
properly with engine top surface.

 

[moukie]

Perfect information. Sounds very similar to what I am experiencing. I will check it out and report back. Thank you very much.

 

[moukie]

Hello,
Weather kept me away from the lake today, but I am feeling pretty good about this only being a plug issue.. I checked suspect coil versus another with a multimeter and both checked the same. I was not able to get a reading between 1 and 2, but did get an in-spec resistance between 1 and plug connection and both coils read the same. I also verified 12v to the coil. All looked good. I cranked up and added water and ran for about 2 minutes and it ran very smooth, much smoother than before. I then pulled plug and cylinder 2 looks normal, albeit only 2 minutes of running.
I am really hoping the plug was the only issue. I hope to get to lake in about 9 days and will report back.

Hope everyone has a safe and fun weekend.
David

 

[mkov608]

When you say you can't "get a reading" when checking between terminals 1 & 2 what does that mean exactly? Are you reading an open circuit (infinite resistance)? If you are, that coil has an open in the primary winding. Both windings have to be good for the coil to work.

 

[moukie]

mkov608,
I think this is more of a case where I don't know how to use my meter. I have an old Fluke, and have never really been trained on how to use it. Most of the time, I am doing more comparitive type diagnosing than anything. If i have a good, I compare a suspect bad to it. In this case, I tried several different ranges and never got anything but "0" on the meter. But, i got it on both coils I tested and one of them I knew to be good, so I assumed them both to be OK.. I then moved on to the second test where I did get a reading and both were the same.
Again, likely just a case of me not knowing how to use the meter.

I hope to get to the lake for a short bit Sunday, and expect this machine to run well. I will report back after that.

Thanks for all the advice.
David

 

[mkov608]

Most Fluke meters are auto ranging, so the meter will take care of that for you. Set the meter to the ohms setting and touch the leads together. You should get a zero reading on the display. That also tells you if the batteries in the meter are any good. If the meter indicates 0 ohms when checking between terminals 1 and 2 of the coil then you have "continuity" in the primary winding. In other words, the coil (primary winding) is intact internally. Remember, lower temperatures result in lower resistance.

Keep in mind this note from the manual.

"An ignition coil with good resistance measurement
can still be faulty. Voltage leak can occur
at high voltage level which is not detectable with
an ohmmeter. Replacing the ignition coil may be
necessary as a test."

 

[moukie]

It has been monsoon weather in SC, so have not been able to play with new toy since first attempt, until today. She cranked right up, ran like a scolded dog, and even idled great. No issues. I am attributing the initial issues to an undercharged battery, stale gas, and a #2 fouled plug. With that behind me, looks like it is about time to winterize. Too bad, because this machine sure is fun. Kids loved it.

Thanks so much for all the great advice given. I hope I don't need more any time soon, but I know right where I will go.

Sincerely,
David in SC

 

[mkov608]

Awesome! I take it with the rising water you didn't have to drive an hour to launch the ski.