hi guys i have a seadooo gtx ltd and every two weeks i keep finding a puddle of oil in the hull!!! its only down one side? has anyone got any ideas on how to stop it or any ideas what could cause it ????? also i have been told its not easy to fix oil leaks? can anyone help or have pics on how to check for leaks etc many thanks
seadoo gtx millenium oil leak please help
- Thread starter darrengtx
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- seadoo gtx oil leak
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djredman99
New Member
They are not hard to fix necessarily, but can be hard to find. Doing a pressure test on the system, inspecting the oil lines/filter is what you need to do. Often the rubber plug at the bottom of the tank is a common leak point.
The shop manual has the procedures for finding your oil leak. Pick up a copy as it is invaluable for someone doing their own work.
The shop manual has the procedures for finding your oil leak. Pick up a copy as it is invaluable for someone doing their own work.
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
leak
oil in the hull on my '98 GTX LTD was from the rubber gasket between the oil tank and the red 'nozzle' on the bottom...
it's not as hard to pull out as you would think... just be sure to bleed air from the oil lines.
you can also take this time to replace the oil filter.
Mine was 10+ years old!
oil in the hull on my '98 GTX LTD was from the rubber gasket between the oil tank and the red 'nozzle' on the bottom...
it's not as hard to pull out as you would think... just be sure to bleed air from the oil lines.
you can also take this time to replace the oil filter.
Mine was 10+ years old!
Just had the same problem and fixed it. The problem is most likely the seam of the 2 piece oil tank. These were poor quality and actually recalled and replaced. The oil runs down from the seam to the lowest point, being the outlet at the bottom. The grommet gets wet and is most likely OK, and is wet from the oil running down to it.
The cheapest and permanent fix is this. Drain the oil either with a syphon pump or disconnect the oil line and drain into container. Remove oil lines at top and bottom of tank, and disconnect sensor connector that leads to the top of tank. Remove filler hose. Remove 3 rubber holding straps. Remove tank and flush out. Take to a plastic welder or plastic bumper repair shop. Get the entire seam plastic welded (cost about $30) and reinstall. You won't have any more problems. It's easiest to remove the glovebox first, to access the oil tank fittings. Just take out the 4 black plastic fasteners by pushing up from underneath. Access is much easier then. Whole process takes about 2 hours, as it's fiddly.
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SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
tank
I got a new tank (used) sensor, filler neck, and bottom red plastic piece on ebay from a 02 GTX, that fit into my 98 just fine for like $35 last fall... no leaks since.
I got a new tank (used) sensor, filler neck, and bottom red plastic piece on ebay from a 02 GTX, that fit into my 98 just fine for like $35 last fall... no leaks since.
If you park your ski tilted up at the front, like I do, then the oil tracks back under the engine to the rear of the ski. It is possible that your leak is not the tank, but the most common oil leak with this model seems to originate at the tank seam. It is a poor design and the adhesive used in manufacture breaks down. Test yours by taking out the glove-box for better access and then run a clean paper towel right around the seam (don't forget at the back against the fuel tank too) and see if it's wet. If it is, your tank has to come out, no ifs, no buts, no other way I'm afraid. You could source a used tank, but the same problem will probably occur again. It's better to do a permanent fix by getting it professionally plastic welded. All plastic bumper repair shops have the right materials and equipment. DON"T RELY ON GLUE OR SEALANT. Even though some are oil resistant, a proper welded seam will last forever, probably cost less $$, and you only need do the job once. You'll have a better tank than a factory one.
It's not hard to remove the tank, say 10 mins, but getting the oil out first takes time with a syphon. You can disconnect 1 of the oil tubes at the bottom of the tank, and drain it into a clean 3 litre plastic milk bottle or similar tipped slightly on edge and squeezed in. If you have more than 2.5 l in your tank, you'll have to block off the outlet once bottle is full and fill another. As long as the bottle is clean, re-use the oil. Empty tank easily slides out on slight angle through the front hatch.
When re-installing tank, it can be hard to re-connect the centre rubber strap. To make it easy, I tied a piece of string around the left side strap and secured it to the petrol filler neck on the tank, and then you can simply pull the other one across to it. There's only room for one arm at a time through the hatch, and you need to hold the 2 ends together otherwise. I prefer easy!!!. My motto is
"if it ain't easy....it ain't right! Good luck.
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