Hey don't know if anyone can help me here. Have a 2004 3d 787. My problems are when i take off the ski hesitates, then takes off. also when i take a left turn at full speed the engine while in the turn boggs down or loses power. It only does this in a left turn. When i make a right turn there is no noticeable issue. My red engine light blinks. Took it to a dealership they said it was the CPS (Crank Position Sensor). I installed a new one, my engine light stopped blinking for about 10 hours of use, still had the same problem without the engine light on. Then low and behold, the light came back on. So something must be causing the cps to fail. Already cleaned rave valves, changed plugs. Anyone got any clue?????
Sea doo 3d lack of power (Bogging) problem
- Thread starter bigl8112
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Nate Surveyor
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You have voted left wing for long enough, and the Sea Doo knows it. You will have to change to the right for a while, to even things up!
(gasp!) just kidding!
I am no expert, but a few things come to mind.
Maybe you have a bit of trash in ONE SIDE of the water intake grate, which affects left turns more than right.
Maybe your cavitation ring is bad on one side, and the thrust bearing is allowing it to wobble to one side, during left turns. Check the shaft for play.
Maybe your carb has trash in it, and during left turns, the water in the carb slings up into the high speed jet.
Some sort of gas drier that does not hurt diaphragms would help that.
Maybe a bad bushing at the rear, where you steer it, which allows bad alignment during left turns. This could be caused by somebody rear ending you at a stop light. Broken or cracked steering nozzle.
If it was built, and designed by a human, a human can figure it out, and fix it!
Go for it.
Nate
(gasp!) just kidding!
I am no expert, but a few things come to mind.
Maybe you have a bit of trash in ONE SIDE of the water intake grate, which affects left turns more than right.
Maybe your cavitation ring is bad on one side, and the thrust bearing is allowing it to wobble to one side, during left turns. Check the shaft for play.
Maybe your carb has trash in it, and during left turns, the water in the carb slings up into the high speed jet.
Some sort of gas drier that does not hurt diaphragms would help that.
Maybe a bad bushing at the rear, where you steer it, which allows bad alignment during left turns. This could be caused by somebody rear ending you at a stop light. Broken or cracked steering nozzle.
If it was built, and designed by a human, a human can figure it out, and fix it!
Go for it.
Nate
Nate, that's a lot of maybe's...If we think about it really hard gas will be less than $1.00 too. :rofl: If you hit the set button 5 times, with the dess lanyard off, it should display a trouble code to help in repairing your cps sensor problem,( I believe you model has the info center). Have you cleaned you RAVE valves lately? Here is some information on the RAVE valves;
The RAVE, (Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust) valves are located above the exhaust valve. There are 2 of them per engine. They are round with a red adjustment screw in the middle. It has a clip that holds it together. How they work is that they open the exhaust port larger as the engine rpm's increase. When the rpm's drop down so do the RAVE valves. They work on the principle of the pressure of the exhaust system. Rpm's increase, pressure increases and the valve opens, rpm's drop pressure drops, Valve closes. They should be de-carbonized annual. To disassemble the rave valves, remove the spring clip on top, remove the black cover. There is a spring under the cover. Remove the piston by turning it with a metric socket. On the bottom of the piston is the rubber "Bellows". Be careful with the small retaining spring that holds the bellows on the piston. Remove the 2 allen screws that hold the base on the cylinder. Remove the base and gasket. The long valve won't fall in the cylinder just pull it out. There is an o ring under the base, on the shaft of the guillotine valve. Be careful to see how it came apart as it has to go back together that same way again. On the base, notice the notch that it is facing down. Clean all the carbon off the guillotine valve. I use carb cleaner and 400 grit paper. Check the bellows for any small pin holes. If so, replace it. If not, reassemble it on the clean guillotine valve, and install it back on the engine the same way it came apart. The guillotine valve only fits one way. The one closest to the exhaust pipe will come off differently then the other one. You will have to remove the allen screws and turn the base so it clears the exhaust pipe. I would do one at a time in case you forget how it goes back together again. This way you can look at the other one and copy it. Do both engines 2 per engine, if so equiped. Take your time and if you have questions give us a shout. We'll be here to help you out.
If the RAVE valves are dirty it will not rev up correctly and could be causing your problem.
The adjustment knob (the red cap) should either be screwed all the way in or flush to the top of the black ring of the cap. This will only affect performance, as far as how it jumps out of the hole or how well it runs for extended periods at WOT.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Karl
The RAVE, (Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust) valves are located above the exhaust valve. There are 2 of them per engine. They are round with a red adjustment screw in the middle. It has a clip that holds it together. How they work is that they open the exhaust port larger as the engine rpm's increase. When the rpm's drop down so do the RAVE valves. They work on the principle of the pressure of the exhaust system. Rpm's increase, pressure increases and the valve opens, rpm's drop pressure drops, Valve closes. They should be de-carbonized annual. To disassemble the rave valves, remove the spring clip on top, remove the black cover. There is a spring under the cover. Remove the piston by turning it with a metric socket. On the bottom of the piston is the rubber "Bellows". Be careful with the small retaining spring that holds the bellows on the piston. Remove the 2 allen screws that hold the base on the cylinder. Remove the base and gasket. The long valve won't fall in the cylinder just pull it out. There is an o ring under the base, on the shaft of the guillotine valve. Be careful to see how it came apart as it has to go back together that same way again. On the base, notice the notch that it is facing down. Clean all the carbon off the guillotine valve. I use carb cleaner and 400 grit paper. Check the bellows for any small pin holes. If so, replace it. If not, reassemble it on the clean guillotine valve, and install it back on the engine the same way it came apart. The guillotine valve only fits one way. The one closest to the exhaust pipe will come off differently then the other one. You will have to remove the allen screws and turn the base so it clears the exhaust pipe. I would do one at a time in case you forget how it goes back together again. This way you can look at the other one and copy it. Do both engines 2 per engine, if so equiped. Take your time and if you have questions give us a shout. We'll be here to help you out.
If the RAVE valves are dirty it will not rev up correctly and could be causing your problem.
The adjustment knob (the red cap) should either be screwed all the way in or flush to the top of the black ring of the cap. This will only affect performance, as far as how it jumps out of the hole or how well it runs for extended periods at WOT.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Karl
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