• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

sea doo 1997 xp, **problem, please help**

Status
Not open for further replies.

robstar

New Member
Hello guys,
Im from sweden so my english isnt the best but I hope you understand me :)
Watercrafts isnt common here.

I've a Sea-Doo XP 1997 (787cc) with some problem, only runs on 1 cylinder when in water.
Started it on land and its fire ups on both but only 1 when Im in water, it's kinda hard for me to understand whats my problem.

I've changed ignition recoil but nothing else.

I may also say it was waterfilled and under water last year, since then it havent worked for me.

May it be MPEM? All help would be nice.

Sorry again for my english :)

/Swedish dude
 
If it runs on both out of the water and only one in the water, it could be low compression. Check compression on both cylindets and post readings back.
 
First off...do a compression test. What method did you go about getting the water out of the engine? How long did it sit with water in it? *edit jjinsc beat me to it
 
just wanted to say good luck with the ski!!also,,seems like u speak better(or type)english than a bunch of people in california!!
 
If it runs on both out of the water and only one in the water, it could be low compression. Check compression on both cylindets and post readings back.

Around 140psi in both cylinders, abit old compression tester but I think it shows kinda OK.

First off...do a compression test. What method did you go about getting the water out of the engine? How long did it sit with water in it? *edit jjinsc beat me to it

140 psi in both as I said above. I took the spark plug from cylinders and hold start button down.


Can it be crankcase gasket? Or what do you guys think?
 
Do you have the gray "tempo" fuel lines still? If so that may be your problem. Replace fuel lines and clean/replace the fuel selector valve. And clean the carbs. Use genuine mikuni carb kits only.

You may as well replace the brittle little oil injection lines while you're at it...

Also, take the plug boots off and trim 1/8'' off the plug wire and re-install boots. Throw a new set of plugs in it too. I've had a brand new plug be a dud before...
 
Do you have the gray "tempo" fuel lines still? If so that may be your problem. Replace fuel lines and clean/replace the fuel selector valve. And clean the carbs. Use genuine mikuni carb kits only.

You may as well replace the brittle little oil injection lines while you're at it...

Also, take the plug boots off and trim 1/8'' off the plug wire and re-install boots. Throw a new set of plugs in it too. I've had a brand new plug be a dud before...

Thanks for answer,
Yep its gray fuel lines. Will replace them all. Im not sure what "fuel selector valve" and "brittle little oil injection lines" is? Any picture or something? Im still from Sweden with low english skill :(

I've new ignition coil with new cables and plug boots or should I cut them 1/8" anyways?

Thanks mate
 
The fuel selector valve is attached to the dial that allows you to shut off the fuel or change to reserve (3 positions: OFF, ON, RES)If you follow the fuel lines from the tank, you will see them go to a little filter (fuel water separator) and then keep following them to a junction where you'll find 3 lines (2 from the tank, 1 to the engine/carbs) this needs to either be replaced or taken apart and cleaned.

As for the oil lines, look at the front of the engine, down near the bottom will be a little pump with lines from the oil tank going into it and little lines coming from it and attaching near the carbs, you will have to remove the carbs to change them, but they should be removed anyways to clean/rebuild them after replacing the fuel lines.

And yes its worth trimming back the plug wires, after a while you can get a poor connection which can cause problems from time to time...
 
Consider checking the resistance in the ignition wires and also fuel filters (main and also in carbs, check your carb model to see if this applies, I have 2 1999's XPs which had this problem and it was the filters--took all summer to fiqure out problem). With no load (out of water) the engine may rev enough to overcome the problem because the failing part has not yet totally failed, but when under load, the engine may not get to a high enough RPM's fast enough to overcome it. Good luck
 
Thanks for answers guys!

I've replaced all gray fuel lines and will rebuild carb tomorrow, but is there any guide or something? Never seen those carbs before..

Rebuild guide or something :) thanks
 
WAIT................how are you determining that its only running on one cylinder in the water...is it because it runs rough????? if you are assuiming that its running only on one cylinder when in water because it runs rough that maqy not be your problem...ski's dont just decide to run on one cylinder as soon as you put it in the water and if you have 140 compressuion then thats not the issue.... an engine will act completly different when there is a load on it than it will when its on a trailer.... it looks like you said that you have replaced all the grey fuel lines correct??? if so then you most likely did the selector valve it has all the lines going into it on the side of the ski where you turn it from (on) (off) and (reserve) do you have any way to upload a video of what its doing
 
UPDATE:

New gray fuel lines, new oil injection lines and rebuild carbs. It did fire up on both cylinders and was running really good! :thumbsup:

BUT, ran it for 3 mins and then stop and it died (was idle for 10 sec). It was not starting anymore at all, any ideas?
Going to buy new spark plugs and charge battery and try again tomorrow? Or do you guys think I've forgot something?
 
Its runs great from mid to high rpm's.

It won't idle............ no throttle = it dies.
Its getting to much fuel at low rpm's, whats wrong guys? :( Should the low speed screw be at 0 turns?
 
HIGH speed screws at 0 turns out and low speed at 1- 1 1/4 turns out. If my not mistaken. Hope this helps. :cheers:

Kyle
 
also got to tell ya sweedish dude your english is better than half of the people that live here ...congrats
 
thanks for answer guys :)

your question about how I determining it was running on 1 cylinder... First SOUND you can hear that, and then i pulled one spark plug boot out and it died or didnt change depending on which one I pulled out.

But back to my last question, what can be wrong when my xp dies now? no idling at all.. I need to have at least 1/3 gas or else it will die...
 
you probably need to rebuild or have rebuilt the carbs with an oem mikuni kit and new needles and seats, and clean or replace the internal carb filters. then reset the high and low speed needles to factory specs and go from there.

it sounds like you could have one or both of the needles sticking open or leaking badly, causing it to run too rich and bog out, OR your low speed needles are so far off that its loading up and can't clear out till it gets above 1/3 throttle. either way, a full carb rebuild on this age ski is a good idea and will fix many other possible issues with the fueling system.
 
you probably need to rebuild or have rebuilt the carbs with an oem mikuni kit and new needles and seats, and clean or replace the internal carb filters. then reset the high and low speed needles to factory specs and go from there.

it sounds like you could have one or both of the needles sticking open or leaking badly, causing it to run too rich and bog out, OR your low speed needles are so far off that its loading up and can't clear out till it gets above 1/3 throttle. either way, a full carb rebuild on this age ski is a good idea and will fix many other possible issues with the fueling system.

Carbs are rebuilt and now my old problems are gone, only idling issue. Can wrong pop off spring cause all this?
 
I fixed idle problem now, runs great. UNTIL today...

Was running for 1hour and was going full speed and it did just stop. like it was some mechanical problem?
Its starts now but when I rev a little bit it sounds bad and dies.

Any ideas please? :(:(:(
 
I fixed idle problem now, runs great. UNTIL today...

Was running for 1hour and was going full speed and it did just stop. like it was some mechanical problem?
Its starts now but when I rev a little bit it sounds bad and dies.

Any ideas please?
:(:(:(

Test the compression.

Have you read tread? Ive good compression but now its some new problem..
sounds bad and stops when I rev up from idling..

Yes, he probably did and thats why he is saying to check compression again.
Two strokes are finicky and any little thing fuel or air level not right and it will lose compression.

To confirm motor is healthy we need compression readings to not be chasing our tales.

It not wanting to run but it starts sound like a fuel problem.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top