SBT engine swap

[Thumper3322]

Hi all,

As some know my engine is done and need a new one. I've been going over options.

If I am to pull the engine myself, and take the parts off required for this swap to a SBT engine, do I need any special tools to get the parts off my current engine that have to go on the sbt engine (i.e. magento, pto flywheel, rotary valve etc)?

I don't want to be stuck halfway thru finding out I need a tool. I'm trying to weigh my options to get back on the water asap, since it is soooooo nice out.

Thanks!

 

[El Toro 33809]

You will need to pull 2 of those items, PTO flywheel and everything under the mag cover. You will need a flywheel puller and something to get the PTO flywheel off with. They will sell a new one of those for $25 I think. Or charge you $40 to remove your old one.

 

[Dr Honda]

1) To get the PTO off, you need a hunk of rope, and an impeller tool. (it has std rotation threads) You put the rope in the PTO spark plug hole and let the piston compress on it. Make sure to take the PTO off before you remove the engine from the ski. (you need the engine anchored) Also... you will want a LONG breaker bar. The longer the better... the PTO can be very tight. When you put the new one on... it only needs to be snug. Normal running will tighten it.

2) The flywheel works best with the special puller... but a regular 3 bolt puller will work. IF... you take out all 6 screws on the MAG... make sure you mark the MAG to the flywheel so you know what way it was on.

3) A stubby wrench will make life easier trying to remove the intake manifold... but it's not 100% needed. You can just take the carbs off... then you can remove the manifold once the engine is out.

4) Get some inexpensive hose pinchers. You can pinch the oil hoses off close to the engine. That will keep the mess to a minimum.

5) When you go to time the rotary valve... if it seems like you can't hit your mark... flip it over. The teeth are half a pitch out.

6) Ignition timing should be a non-issue as long as you are re-using your flywheel, mag cover, and CDI. If one of those 3 things change... then ignition timing needs checked.

7) I'm assuming you don't have an alignment tool. SO... when you remove the pump... if there are any shims behind it... mark them, and make sure they go back into the right spot. Then, when you put the new engine in... you will get everything back in loose, and then tighten up the pump. At that point, you can slide the engine around, and find the center of the shaft. (you will get what I'm saying once you are there) Basically... we know the pump is straight, and you want to "Feel" the center when putting the engine back in.

8) Speaking of that... before you remove the pump... make sure you get the C-clip or O-ring out from behind the stainless ring. you need the pump mounted to push on it.

9) Sorry the weekend didn't work out. I'll email you my cell. If you have an issue... call.

10) You will want a full set of "Install" gaskets, some anti-seize, RTV, and blue thread locker.

 

[Thumper3322]

Wow thanks doc. Lots of info there.

Still prefer if you could do this lol.

My pto piston is screwed remember, can I jam rope into the mag instead?

I have the main stuff off, no flywheel yet.
I took off the exhaust pipe main piece as it looks like it has to.

Other than the flywheel, and 2 lines on the bottom it can come out. I'm thinking a come along attached to a ladder our rafters in the garage.

 

[Thumper3322]

Hah I even forgot, it is stuck, so might just try putting in the impeller tool and see if that works.

Thanks again doc

 

[Dr Honda]

Wow thanks doc. Lots of info there.

Still prefer if you could do this lol.

My pto piston is screwed remember, can I jam rope into the mag instead?

I have the main stuff off, no flywheel yet.
I took off the exhaust pipe main piece as it looks like it has to.

Other than the flywheel, and 2 lines on the bottom it can come out. I'm thinking a come along attached to a ladder our rafters in the garage.

Honestly... since that engine will be going by-by... you can put the rope in the MAG cyl if needed. Normally you don't want to do that, because you can twist the crank. But... who cares, since you aren't going to re-use it.


Once the engine is stripped of the bigger stuff... it's not that heavy. With a starter, and belly plate... it's only about 80 Lbs. 2 people can just pick it up, and out of the hull. But yes... a ladder, and come-a-long will lift it.

I'm lazy, and have a bad back... so I use an engine hoist, or even the shop forklift. (that's a bit overkill for the weight)

 

[Thumper3322]

Well it was stuck enough put a big wrench on it and it's loose now. Thanks, that would have been a bitch without it being bolted down.

Now going to try and get it out.

 

[Dr Honda]

Well it was stuck enough put a big wrench on it and it's loose now. Thanks, that would have been a bitch without it being bolted down.

Now going to try and get it out.

The PTO? Heck... I've put a 6' breaker bar on it, and dam near rolled a ski off the bunks before.

 

[Thumper3322]

LOL... glad it wasn't like that, but not sure it really matters.

The engine is out, when I took off the crank oil line, the other side oil nipple started pouring out oil, got most of it.

However, flipped the engine around and take a look at the bottom of the crank. FML!!

Will SBT accept this? Anyone know? Damn it!

 

[Dr Honda]

Yep... they will take it. That's old damage, and it looks like it was fixed. Now... if that was on the PTO end... I would suspect it of leaking... but it's on the side that is OK.

 

[Thumper3322]

Great thx doc.

I will continue taking it apart.

 

[Thumper3322]

What is the bypass fitting on the head cover?

 

[Thumper3322]

Ooh and you think I should go back to stock oem impeller, or still leave on the solas?

 

[Thumper3322]

How do you get the magneto flywheel off? take the nut off? It is freakin tight.

 

[Thumper3322]

My rotary valve looks a bit scratched up, is this ok?

 

[Dr Honda]

The RV is probably OK. The picture is hard to tell. If it's just scratches, and not deep wear... you are fine.

The flywheel nut sucks. Do you have an air impact? If not... use some ratchet straps... and secure that engine down somewhere, And get out a LONG breaker bar. I normally hit them with a IR ThunderGun. +700 Lb-Ft of torque normally takes care of the stubborn ones. Speaking of the flywheel... did you mark the drum section to the flywheel, so you know what why it goes back on? (#2 on my list above)

I'd leave the impeller on. The fresh engine should push it better.

Bypass fitting? Post a pic.

 

[Thumper3322]

Mostly surface scratches except for 2 little ones that are a but deeper than the others.

Yes I marked each screw from 1-6 and the same on the flywheel.

I will have to see if I have an impact gun here.

it's on the list from sbt if items to keep.

Thx

 

[Thumper3322]

So indeed I do have a full set of brand new air impact tools here. go figure as I have pretty well everything apart lol.

My old man and I were able to get the nut off with a regular adjustable wrench. Turned the engine on its side so it would stop moving.

however lol, the flywheel is stuck, how do you get it off? I don't have a flywheel puller, what else can I use?

On a side note, did the fuel baffle fuse fix, tested it on my brothers ski and worked great a plus finally lmao.

 

[ocod]

So indeed I do have a full set of brand new air impact tools here. go figure as I have pretty well everything apart lol.

My old man and I were able to get the nut off with a regular adjustable wrench. Turned the engine on its side so it would stop moving.

however lol, the flywheel is stuck, how do you get it off? I don't have a flywheel puller, what else can I use?

On a side note, did the fuel baffle fuse fix, tested it on my brothers ski and worked great a plus finally lmao.

If you have a auto zone or discount they rent tools.
They may have one.

Check w/harbor freight too if you got them locally.

 

[Thumper3322]

I don't have either, i'm in Canada. I'm at my cottage that had lots of tools, just any big name stores aren't close by.

would a normal garage have something to pull the flywheel? I'm trying to figure out another way.

Thx

 

[ocod]

I don't have either, i'm in Canada. I'm at my cottage that had lots of tools, just any big name stores aren't close by.

would a normal garage have something to pull the flywheel? I'm trying to figure out another way.

Thx

Yup I noticed from your avatar thats why I threw out the "If you have"
But being on a cottage I can see your dilemma.

May Dr has a backwards way of taking them off w/out puller?

 

[Dr Honda]

It's a tapper fit... so you need a puller.

 

[Thumper3322]

Fair enough ocod... Thx!

damn.. Going to have to see what I can find around here. would a local shop with a normal flywheel puller work?

With regards to marking the mag and flywheel... I'm not sure I have done it right. I took off the mag cover, the stator is inside the mag cover. There is a cone shape that goes in front of the flywheel with 6 bolts holding it on to the flywheel. I marked that with numbers all the way around, then took that off and marked the flywheel with the same numbers in the same spot. Is that all that has to done? Or have I screwed myself?

 

[skewba98z28]

Since the engine is toast you can loosen the flywheel bolt. Then strap the motor down somehow or have a two of your bros hold it and take a block of wood or a piece of brass and beat the shit out of the end of the crank. When you start to see rust fly from around the bolt its almost off. I know not the ideal way, but i've seen it done a few times.

 

[Dr Honda]

Yes... he could... but he doesn't want to damage the flywheel.

Thumper: all you need is a regular 3 bolt puller. Any local autoparts store should have one.