RXT-X AS 260 year model conflict

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BMack

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I have a RXT-X AS260 HID# look up says it’s an 09 but when I look up parts for that year model they are the wrong parts. The 2011 parts seem to be the right ones. What’s going on? How can I be sure I’m purchasing the correct parts?
 
Like stated by Skiasylum, if you look on the back of the ski, you should see the HIN (Hull Identification Number) embossed. The last 2 numbers, will be your year model.

But, here's a bit more info to chew on. Seadoo's are color coded from the manufacturer by year they are made. The picture you have on this thread, was first used on the 2010, and is also used on the 2011. So, I'm willing to bet, your ski is not a 2009. I'll attach the color scheme for the 2009, RXT-X.2009_SeaDoo_RXT_X255.jpg
 
I got it figured out, now I’m having problems with the IBR system. It’s stuck in reverse. Anyone know how to go about getting it unstuck without damaging anything. I’m pretty sure it needs a new motor cuz the case of the ibr motor is rusted out pretty bad.
 
Be careful messing around with the IBR gate with the tether cord installed, good way to lose a finger. Make sure it’s removed and then wait 5 minutes or remove fuses.
The IBR gate won’t move unless the engine is running.
For maintenance purposes the IBR override function is available. Procedure in owners manual.
Check IBR power fuse (f5) and IBR control fuse(f17) in fuse box if the gate doesn’t move using the IBR override function.
Connect the watercraft to BUDS and check for fault codes.
Remove the screws retaining the U-arm to the actuator shaft and move the gate up and down by hand to check for freedom of movement.

If you plan on the DIY route download a service manual for sure and probably purchase a Candoo Pro Home BUDS reader.
 
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Update.

The IBR overide works so I’m not sure why it was stuck in reverse. Maybe now it’ll work. I am getting p1614 which has something to do with the front connector harness.

Also, the plug in cylinder 1 snapped off and the bottom half of the plug is stuck in the head. Anyone have any ideas on how to remove without disassembling the head? I soaked the plug in penetrating oil for days before I tried to remove the plug and it’s been soaking about a week since it broke. I was told to heat the head but not sure the best way to achieve that without damaging the seals and other parts
 
I was able to activate the IBR via the override. I get a code regarding some front connector.

On to the broken spark plug. I was told to soak in penetrating oil and heat up then use easy out. It’s been soaking for over a week. And I made this contraption to heat it .....
17E4F218-F06A-4F36-9C04-A20B83E60926.jpeg
I have heated up to the point where the oil residue begins to smoke. I bought a high tensile strength square flute easy out. Anyone have any suggestions, tips or tricks they might want to add? I only get one shot at this so any help is greatly appreciated.
 
There are plenty of you tube videos on extracting broken spark plugs. Easy out, penetrating oil, and heat and cold. Sharp taps in both directions, be patient. Don’t mess up the threads in the head and don’t break the easy out. There are actually shops out there that do broken bolt extraction full time. Might want to see if you have one local.
 
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