Rust In Mikuni Carb

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SurfBeat

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During my investigation to ascertain the reason my 92 Doo hesitated upon acceleration, based upon the advice I received in this forum, I reluctantly began the process of inspecting the carbs, beginning with their removal.

The process began quite easily, removing the flame arrestor, however, immediately thereafter it was apparent that the Japanese who built the Mikuni were intent on giving another try to get even at us Americans for dropping a couple of bombs on them in 1945.

This is so because they made it almost impossible for this average white boy to remove the two nuts that secure the carbs to the intake manifold.

With the initial guidance from Swabby SeaDooinSkype, and patient, ongoing advice from Timmy-Boy right here in the Inland Empire, they provided the impetus to this returning GI to try to perform the task myself and save several hundred bucks.

It was clear that getting access to remove the nuts was going to be a major PIA, so off to the swap meet I went to purchase a few 13mm wrenches to bend in the vice, (from past experience, I knew those Chinese wrenches would break, and several did in the process). I finally bent one that facilitated removing the two nuts securing the PTO carb.

To my suprise, upon removing the rear face plate (non-pump cover) the carb looked brand new; no gum, no varnish. only a tad of rush on the screw securing the valve plate. I cleaned that easily with some Jelly.

I next removed the front cover (pump coverr) to examine the filter; it looked immaculate.

(By the way, how does varnish or gum enter a system that uses un-leaded fuel? Is not varnish/gum the by-produce of "leaded" gas?)

Now to the main question.

I was so happy that my PTO carb looked new, I thought, great, I won't have to remove the MAG carb.

With the MAG carb un-removed, I removed the pump cover and checked the fuel filter; it also looked new.

Then, to my dismay, when I removed the rear face plate I saw signs of rust; a rust color on the valve body assembly and rust color all over the rubber diaphram. DAMN. Luckily though, the rust did not penetrate the body nor ruin the diaphram.

Because I not only had to clean off the rust, but more import remove the valve body assembly to check for dmage, i.e., rust, gasket, etc., I knew I had to remoe the valve assembly body, so, when I tried to remove the two screws securing the valve body assembly, they did not budge.

Damn, now, Saturday morning, July 4th, I knew I would have to go back to the swap meet and find some more 13 mm wrenches to bend to remove the PTO carb. (Sears did not have any wrenches to perform the task)

I broke off the heads of the wrenches and finally was able to use one of the heads to remove the two nuts securing the PTO carb to the intake manifold.

Now, toremove the two screws. Application of WD-40 and other rust removal products did not help remove the two screws securing the valve body assembly, so, with hammer and screw driver, some heavy pounding away finally budged the screws. I did not damge anything during this process.

QUESTION: What can I apply to the screws to safeguard from this happening again?

Fortunately, no rust to the interior and the gasket looked new.

QUESTION:

How did the rust get into my PTO carb and not ther MAG carb??

For some back-ground info, a couple years ago some dick-head swiped my drain plug, thus, when I headed out on to the River, the Doo almost submerged. (I did not know back then that under such circumstances, water enters the engine via the carbs. Call me a Sarah Palin, Duh!!)

A few weeks later when I tried to start the Doo, all I got was a "thud." I mistakenly thought the thud was the result of a bad battery, so, since I had no river plans, I did not pay much attention and forgot about it.

Fortunately, a friend dropped by, removed the plugs, and as we turned over the engine, water came spurting through the plug port holes.

I remedied that problem with help from the Forum; many telling me that because of the time interval from water ingestion to removal, (several weeks) my engine was ready for the bone yard.

Timmy-Boy said, don't fret, just take the Doo to the River and ride the hell out of it. Since rust requires air to cause harm, and I did not let any air into the engine between water ingestion and removal, probably no harm.

He was right; the Doo ran great all summer.

It's about ten hundred hours, (10:00 a.m.) and time to get back to the project and find a couple of screws that secures the valve body assembly. Hopefully, Malcom-Smith in Riverside or Chaparrel in Berdoo wil have them so I can finish this three weekender carb job.

I better keep my day job and not try moving on to becoming a Doo mechanic. Three weeks and buku hours simply removing a carb. Duh!



and check to gasket for waer
 
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