Running on choke problem.. PLEASE HELP ME!

[DJ Dome]

Hey guys. I been working on my 1994 seadoo xp all summer trying to fix the carburetor/fuel problems. I followed everything to a T on this site. I rebuilt my carbs, changed all my fuel lines, changed check valves, brand new fuel filter canaster, new fuel selector, new plugs, new rectifier, new starter solenoid, cut back wires, pop off test, compression, new battery, and my low speed adjusters are at 1 1/4 out on each carb high speed at 0. It used to idle fine and start up fine before I did all this work but went no where in the water. Now I can get it to only start on choke while feathering gas a little then it stalls. It won't just adjust to an idle like when I first rebuilt the carbs. It's hard starting n keeping it running. It's so frustrating. I killed my battery today just trying to get it to idle, out the water. I would think this ski should run so good changing everything. It ran so good before the rebuild out the water just had the problem that they all explain. I tackled all tasks. Something has to be wrong. All the lines are routed correct. I just don't get it!!! CAN YALLL PLEASE HELP ME!!!!

 

[rvaughn704]

What happens if you turn the idle T screw adjustment in just a little ??

 

[Mickirig1]

My stock answer anymore. Check your supply side. Pressure check a section at a time of your lines and filters. Line pinch a section, take pressure to 4 pounds. Should hold for 10 min. Check all connections of lines. Try to turn and pull. Do pressure tests of carb. Pop off correct? I bought pressure tester at ODS for $25 and a bike pump at Target. Well worth to have. Sometimes non-oem pump diaphrams are junk right out of the baggie! Test Test Test!
Just did this song and dance with mine! It turned out water seperator / fuel filter gasket was bad.

 

[1983]

Did you change needle and seat in carbs during rebuild?

Rob

 

[Mickirig1]

I feel your pain My Brother!
I just did the same chase! A month and a half! Wife wanted me to take it to a Stealership.
It turned out water seperator / fuel filter gasket was bad.
You did clean the carb with the rebuild? Pull low speed and high and clean passages? Air and cleaner? The O ring intact and in place on screws? Gunk / funk in carb / filter when you cracked it open?
Read the sticky on Carb adjustment at top of page? Pressure check the entire fuel system?
( I would do section at a time, pinch off a section, 4 pounds for 10 minutes ) Start at carb go backwards.
Got the right amount of slack in throttle cable? Oil pump cable adjusted to the throttle cable position? It sounds like you have an air leak somewhere. Too lean to idle. It ran good before you did all this? You could try riching up the low speed screw.

 

[DJ Dome]

It ran great started no problems out the water before I rebuilt the carbs. Rebuilt carbs with new everything. Pop offs are correct. I put brand new fuel filter and holder plus new selector. New check valves. Maybe I'll try to take the carbs off again. It's worth a shot. I redid everything on that carb list. I'm frustrated. I'm about to open them up again.

 

[DJ Dome]

The carbs were disgusting just to add. Brand new needle n seat valves. N springs. Pop off correct within one psi. If I richen it too much it stalls if I lean it too much it stalls. If I choke it it runs for a minute then I give it gas it runs great I push choke in a tiny bit n stalls. Tomorrow's a new day.

 

[Mickirig1]

Did you try my reverse pressure testing? A section at a time starting at carb to before water seperator? As soon as I pinched line past the seperator did I fine air leak. Doing the shop manual whole system test did not find it. Remember it is easier to suck air then fuel. Pulling choke is riching up the intake mix. You need air box on to adjust high speed screw. Off to adjust low speed and idle. Read the carb adjusting Sticky above forum carefully again. Read the other posts in this thread.
All eles fails test the pump diaphram and chesk vaives on fueal lines. Parts can be bad right out of the box. TEST TEST TEST. I feel your pain, been there!

 

[DJ Dome]

Ok so I got it running. I took it out on the water got to the second buoy by my house and it stalled. It started back up in turned around to start heading back and it stalled again. So I floated for a while till I made it to a random bulkhead and the water was waste high. I called for help but they were an hour out so I was stuck. So I tied the ski up, took the seat off n tried to get it started. I tried everything until the battery died. I was pinching lines. I turned the low speed adjusters all the way in and started fresh. I tried it all. Before the battery died I pinched the incoming line to the mag carb and gave it gas and it hesitated to start. I'm not sure what this means. I'm almost ready to replace all the lines again. Also rebuild the carbs again. In NY summers almost coming to an end. It's still high 80's but probably for a few mor weeks. I have 6 ft of new fuel line left over from when I changed it to begin with. I wish I know exactly what hose is the problem if that's even the problem. I'm thinking that maybe on the one carb that the one valve seat it being just held open a little bit. I remember when I rebuilt it I had to bend the one down. Maybe it wasn't bent far enough and holding it open a tiny bit. I'm ready to rip the carbs off again. I just don't have 2 new kits n hope the gaskets don't rip. Cause then I won't be able to fog it for the winter. I will have to order kits just to fog my ski. Just a pain in the butt. What do u think?

 

[- BiRkS_]

OK time to go back to the basics, then start branching out. Have you done a compression test lately? I would do one right away and post back the numbers. 3 tests per cylinder, WOT, cold.

Then take that NEW fuel line you have, disconnect the feed to the carb and hook that one up to a jerry can of fresh gas. Unhook the return line and put it in the same jerry can. That way you can monitor fuel flow. Also, in every ski i do, install an inline paper filter right before the carbs to protect them from any debris, and it gives you a sight window to see if you have fuel, air in the fuel, debris, etc. Test it out. If you still have problems, then its your carbs.

Go through the carbs again and double check the metering arms and fuel pump diaphrams and locations. Check valves too. They only go on one way. Be 100% confident. If you are unsure, come back and ask us. then re-install with the simplified fuel system. Get it running well, 3000 rpm out of water. Then hook up proper fuel system and see if anything changes. If it does, you have further diagnosing to do. But start off with things that you KNOW are good. (new doesnt always mean good)

 

[DJ Dome]

Thanks so much man. This is great information! You really brightened my night! I will be doing this tomorrow! Now on my carbs on the mag carb it has a line the outer most line going to what looks like the crank case. Pulse line I think. Do I leave this connected when I do the simplified fuel system? It's the outer most fuel line the inner one is on the middle block and goes straight across to the pto carb. Every where I look online it shows the 2 carbs link with a y. Mine don't. Also in the sticky what does it mean when he says choke rod removal. Stainless rod.. Is this something that needs to be taken out the carbs? My carbs are already in sync. I live on the water so water testing is kind of easy but I live in a no wake zone. I can adjust my ski with a load on it. I just can't go for a quick ride without worrying about getting stuck. Also the inside of the carbs I am sure are correct. I'm just running my brain because I'm new to this and trying to think what it can be. This is some great help. I will give you some new information tomorrow about how it all went. Thanks again

 

[Mickirig1]

You did replace one line at a time? Still have the old lines? The long return to tank line might of had a restricter in it to keep the fuel pressure up. I have not read up on the twin carb systems. It does make sense to have one with 2 carbs...Little flat check valve inplace on back of pump block, if it has one? Did you pull the jets and clean passages? Throttle closed and wide open? Blow out passages with air? Pressure Test the pump diaphram. You can get a bad part right out of the box. The check valves and pump diaphram can be tested without removing carbs. You have to be real careful installing the diaphram. I put a thin coat of Dielectric grease in grove to hold it while I installed screws. Once you think you got it whipped. Put a little gas in the air box. Crack the throttle a little. If it starts, do it a few times. It should be sucking gas on the starter speed now. Keep at it, you will find the Gremlin!!!

 

[DJ Dome]

145 per cylinder. I forgot to tell you

 

[DJ Dome]

I replaced all the lines but yes one by one. Measured it up n changed it. With every line. Now you see this has me thinking. I changed the pressure relief valves. There were 2 one out the hull one in line. But I never changed a check valve... Could this be. Son of a gremlin. Lol

 

[Upallnight]

If you do replace the check valves in the regulator remember that the discs are concave and need to be installed in a certain way.

 

[DJ Dome]

Is this picture inside the carbs? I'm talking about inline. Like this
I have not changed this one nor do I know where it is.

http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=595_28_121&products_id=1025

I changed these 2 already..

http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=595_28_121&products_id=991

I'm thinking now if the first check valve (the first link) is the only part I didn't change. Can it be? Am I supposed to hear like a pressure relief when I take the gas cap off?

 

[Mickirig1]

I still think it's your pump. You should be getting fuel to the carb. My ski would start and run, I just had no WOT. I started pressure testing from carb to water seperator. The bike pump handle went down like it was not attached to the pressure tester. Found it! You check your pulse line? Getting suction and pressure? Just replace it, 1/4 inch line, make sure no kinks. Does diagram of fuel system show a restricter in it? Looks like a double male line splicer white colored inline on the return to tank line. A Sea Doo owner I talked to when I had my Ski 13 problems. Asked me if I had one on my line. I replaced both vent and pressure relief on my system. It made no change.