Rotary Valve Oil Send Line

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Feedback I'm hearing, probably wasn't necessary but after repair I added an inline fuse on one of the wires. If I remember used a 1/2 amp glass fuse and holder, figured the F1 fuse was designed in for a reason, voltage surge, etc.

I'm in the same camp as you, electrical and electronic background. The f1 fuse they use is 250ma. What ever they used is very low resistance. Adding any fuse close to that size bbn always resulted in a reduction in indicated fuel.
You need to also add a smaller resistor in parallel to the first resistor in the loop to get back to the stock resistance.
It's not much of a difference but the gauge does read less.

With the fuse you used your probably not going to have an issue.
 
While your in there try to orient the clamp so that you can tighten it blindly by reaching around the airbox.
 
Start it and set the idle to 3000 RPM out of water. Turn it off and then line up the marks.
Cant align it without running it.
Or turn idle screw 2 turns in from closed throttle and align the Mark's. It will idle low and you will have to turn the idle up but at least you will be over oiling and have to turn it down.
 
Also after replacing the RV send line which is filled with oil now. I notice the return line isn't full of oil. I assume when the engine cranks this should happen immediately?
 
Did you put a clamp on that line and forget it ?

It should fill within a few seconds and only go up to the oil level in the tank. It doesn't flow. It just sits there.
 
As Mekanix said it is only gravity fed and not under pressure so the line on the exhaust side will only go as high as the level in the tank.
 
I had a clamp on the return when I removed the send line and left it on until the send was back on. I figured it would fill back up on it's own too. The only thing is I have some oil trapped near the top of the return line. But of no pressure than having trapped air in the hose shouldn't matter?? Now I'm worried about starting it. Crap!
 
It's not trapped air. The return line will only fill to the level of the oil in the tank. It is not a pressurised system.
 
Put more oil in the tank this morning hoping that that would do the trick. No way. I still have about 18 inches of the return line with no oil in it at the motor side. And then near the top before it "could" return back into the tank there is about a foot with oil in it. No clamps or anything left on. It should just run through it.
 
Can you manipulate the line to move the bubble further up the line ?
I should do that on it's own anyway once you start moving the machine around and driving it.
 
Heat wave finally gone in my area so I got a couple minutes to look at the return line. I ended up disconnecting it at the top of the oil tank and kept raising and lowering the line until all the air bubbles came out. Looks like it was trapped air. Reconnected the line and it is filled to the same level as the oil in the tank which seems correct.

I need to double check connections and then give it a crank over before I bother putting the air box and stuff back on. hopefully she fires up.
 
Been busy then vacation so no follow-up posts. I have been able to enjoy the ole goat of a machine for the last few days at the lake. After fixing the oil send line, I could still see a minor leak, couldn’t really pin point but much less oil than before in the hull. Given summer was flying by I put it back together to ride. I can’t see much if any oil in the hull now after a couple hours of use. So I’m happy so far.

However, I will say the same as countless others. What a difference changing those old grey fuel lines out. As I posted above, I discovered I had the green slime so I replace the lines. No hesitation, flat spots, this thing wants to dance as much as the old girl was designed. If you have any hesitation, flat spot, missing top end and you have the grey lines. Stop
Immediately and replace them.

Thanks to those that gave advice through this post
 
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