rotary valve not lining up ???

[brock1]

ok so last night i recieved my new engine from 99spxxx.....which by the way is better than i thought ...BIG thank you to jess for it .....So anyways im trying to time the RV and the settings from what i understand are top dead center mag piston with the degree wheel set at 360 at the bottom of the mag side port..... then go counterclockwise to 147 and mark it...... well i did that and then put the RV on and lined it up with the bottom of the mag side port and instead of it falling on my 147 mark its at about 156 no matter what way i turn it....AM i doing something wrong?? i dont think im missing anything ...what do you guys think

 

[Bills86e]

What yr/mdl/engine? The RV plate would be about 1/2" BELOW the mag port at TDC w/mag jug. The plate if reversed, is a 1/2 tooth difference. The casting point on the cases were for the 587 engines, but were not removed on most rotax. Disregaurd that. YES, line
protractor at mag port lower edge and read counter-clockwise to mark the degree on block and align/slide on plate as closely possable.
Remember to do the oil pump flow rate test and replace the 3/32" id oil lines, synco the carb butterflys and if the motor was hard to start when warmed up, check the RV clearance tolerance, .....all in the Shop Manual.

 

[Dr Honda]

Just to verify... are you using a 159 degree valve?

Also... make the second mark. MAG @ TDC. 360 on the top of the port. Go CW to 65 and mark.

SO... now, you should have a valve that fits at both marks. If the opening of the valve is smaller than those 2 marks... you have a smaller (147) valve.

 

[brock1]

Sorry forgot to mention the ski...Its my 95 xp 720...the engine is the SILVER engine ..i just got it used from 99spxxx ....Ok that makes sense now i didnt realize that with the RV lined up at 147 that the opposite side would be 1/2 inch lower than mag port i thought that one edge woule be lined at 147 and that the other would be right at the bottom of the mag port..not a 1/2 inch lower than it so i think im ok now...... But one other question for you guys ....the flywheel case that was on the engine that he sent me had NO stator in it and had different motor mnounts to it ....So i took that flywhjeel case off and used my old case so i didnt have to take apart my stator ...Is that OK? ...... I could not find any other way to remove the stator from the old case unless i took it all apart.... I also had to install studs in the bottom of the engine case so i could use my motor mount plate instead of the mounts he sent me ...is that also ok

 

[brock1]

DOC....im pretty sure it is since its the OEM valve from my old engine...but i dont know i will have to check when i get home ......why would it be a 147 valve if it needs a 159

 

[brock1]

here is the pic of the nipple im talking about.... dont understand why its on the laft side of the engine on the new one ...but on my old engine its on the right ......... on this engine its on the right side of the RV too ....i am thinking its the pulse line

 

[brock1]

OCOD .....sorry for some reason i cannot view my inbox its like my bar is frozen ...sorry i cant write you back here is the pic u wanted

 

[ocod]

yup thatas for the pulse.
Just run another hose as short as possible.

You can see where there is a spot on the other side of the case that is plugged during machineing of block.

 

[brock1]

ok got it just wondering why they would make you have to use a foot long line for a pulse line ...LOL ....thanks for all the help ...by the way did you happen to read post #4 about the stator cover..... I just want to mnake sure that doing that is ok on the 717 i just didnt want to have to take the stator apart to get it out of the old housing

ALSO i did a big NO NO and got in a hurry and screwed the bolts for the flywheel puller in too far and one of them hit the coil on the stator and its got a pretty good mark on it it kinda squished down the coil a little do you think ill be ok or have i just ruined my coil ??????

 

[Dr Honda]

Sorry forgot to mention the ski...Its my 95 xp 720...the engine is the SILVER engine ..i just got it used from 99spxxx ....Ok that makes sense now i didnt realize that with the RV lined up at 147 that the opposite side would be 1/2 inch lower than mag port i thought that one edge woule be lined at 147 and that the other would be right at the bottom of the mag port..not a 1/2 inch lower than it so i think im ok now...... But one other question for you guys ....the flywheel case that was on the engine that he sent me had NO stator in it and had different motor mnounts to it ....So i took that flywhjeel case off and used my old case so i didnt have to take apart my stator ...Is that OK? ...... I could not find any other way to remove the stator from the old case unless i took it all apart.... I also had to install studs in the bottom of the engine case so i could use my motor mount plate instead of the mounts he sent me ...is that also ok

That should be fine.

DOC....im pretty sure it is since its the OEM valve from my old engine...but i dont know i will have to check when i get home ......why would it be a 147 valve if it needs a 159

Don't know. Unless you owned the ski since new... you can't assume anything is right. If you want your ski to run properly, and have summer after summer with zero issues... you verify EVERYTHING when you work on it.

When you said it wasn't lining up properly... I have to make the comment about the valve size. Some people don't know there are a few different Seadoo RV's. (Better safe that sorry)

 

[brock1]

thanks doc yeah i just didnt realize that when you install the RV it would be slightly under the mag side port and not lined right up with it ....did you read the last post abput the coil ...i think i just screwed myself here

 

[Dr Honda]

I just saw your pic. I thought you were working on a 720 engine. Oh well... timing's close enough.

BUT... on the 800 it should be 146.5-64. Honestly... with plastic, or paper wheels... you can't get half a degree anyway. (LOL)

 

[brock1]

no sorry DOC i am working on the 720 i posted the pic to show the pulse line ....it was for OCOD on another issue...it has since been resolved i just cant send him messages for some reasons

 

[ocod]

ok got it just wondering why they would make you have to use a foot long line for a pulse line ...LOL ....thanks for all the help ...by the way did you happen to read post #4 about the stator cover..... I just want to mnake sure that doing that is ok on the 717 i just didnt want to have to take the stator apart to get it out of the old housing

ALSO i did a big NO NO and got in a hurry and screwed the bolts for the flywheel puller in too far and one of them hit the coil on the stator and its got a pretty good mark on it it kinda squished down the coil a little do you think ill be ok or have i just ruined my coil ??????[/QUOTE]



You mean pn#5?

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...Type=13&make=seadoopwc&A=219&B=6&modelid=1995

What your saying in post#4 is you reused the old housing#2 together with #5 as one unit in the engine you got from jess?
That shouldn't be a problem.
There are marks where the stator has to lie up though.
http://www.shopsbt.com/forum/t3640/#post17368

Didn't the stator have to come off to get to the bolts of pn#2??

Not sure. Just look at it for broken wires.
may be pm Dr. about that one??

 

[brock1]

it dosent look like the wires are broken but it did take the (plastic feeling stuff off the outside of them... it just squished them down but i would think they should be ok.....oh and sorry about the post numbering ...LOL its been a long day...... also i guess it would have been easier to just remove the pins out of the stator connector other than changing the whole case but oh well whats done is done

 

[ocod]

it dosent look like the wires are broken but it did take the (plastic feeling stuff off the outside of them... it just squished them down but i would think they should be ok.....oh and sorry about the post numbering ...LOL its been a long day...... also i guess it would have been easier to just remove the pins out of the stator connector other than changing the whole case but oh well whats done is done

If the wire is exposed there is something you can put on it to insulate it?
Dr should know.

 

[oldSeadoo]

You can put some varnish on it, the stuffs use in electric motor winding, this will provide the electrical insulation and keep out the moisture.

 

[ocod]

That thing timed yet

:biggrinjester: