Rock stuck in impeller

[stevekester@charter.net]

I put my 2007 RXP in shallow water today and sucked up two rocks - one is lodged in the fins of the impeller and the other is behind the fins.

My craft wont go above 10 MPH. : (

Are these difficult to remove?

Can anyone tell me how?

Thanks,

Steve

 

[kustomkarl]

Welcome to the seadoo forum Steve. Don't ride it with a rock stuck in it, it will just keep doing more damage. You might want to see if you can poke it out with a stick or long handled screwdriver. Be carefully not to break anything or it could get expensive. See if you can get the grate off the bottom of the RXP and get better access to the rock. If worse comes to worse, you'll have to remove the jet pump to get it out and check for damage to the impeller, impeller shaft or the jet pump assembly itself, including the wear ring. If you get the rock out by poking it give it a good visual for gouges or broken veins in the impeller housing and the impeller itself. If it looks marred it might need repairs. If it all looks good...fire it up and go for a ride. Feel and listen for any vibrations and noises that weren't there before. Good luck with it and keep us posted.

Karl

 

[kustomkarl]

Steve here is some info about replacing the wear ring.
Replacing the wear ring;
For starters....

1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!

2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.

3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.

4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. Make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.

5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.

They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. Cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.

6.) Now you have your pump and impellor in your hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose plugs.... This stuff reeks to high heaven...

7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)

8.) Place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (may take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)

9.) Now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the freezer.

10.) You have to get the old wear ring out of the pump. ( I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be careful only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.

11.) Take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.

12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring

13.) After tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don’t dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t slide in then you didn’t clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....

14.) Reinstall the impellor in the reverse order.

Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. That’s why it’s a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.

Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don’t start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..

15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.

16) Lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.

17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.

18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyolester Oil


Karl

 

[kustomkarl]

Steve, if you want you could join as a "premium member" As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and privet use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too.

Karl

 

[meirvin]

1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!

Huh? for an RXP never heard this

7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice) ??

from factory RXPs have grease not oil

5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible. ??

if they did never go back to them as your not supposed to silicone the pump seal in-RXP-RXTs

 

[kustomkarl]

This wear ring repair came from another member that is a Repair Tec. I'll check those points on the RXP... Thanks for the heads up...

 

[kustomkarl]

This is the only Info I have available to replace the wear ring on a seadoo. I do not see any info in the library on the 2007 RXP. This is only to be used as generic info purposes and not word for word install. If you have better info meirvin, post it here.

Karl

 

[meirvin]

Well I do have an excellent version but my concern is that you will move it to the premium side and charge people for it so Im kinda torn about posting it here i dont mean this as a negative just a concern

 

[kustomkarl]

Meirvin, I use information I get from other members to help members. I got my manual the first month I paid for my membership, in Sept 07...It's kinda ironic, that I use MY PAID SUBSCRIPTION every month, to help other members... Just for the record, the only thing that gets posted in the premium section are full versions of the seadoo manuals. Any information that is posted in the forum is public information and opinions. If what you post is of value to other members, than I might copy it and post it in public forum to help other members. I purchased my own personal $80.00 manual from my seadoo dealer and use it to help anyone that asks for information in it. Did you notice that I'm the top poster...I don't get paid anything to be here. I'm here to help others with there problems, not because I have to but because I want to. I don't know everything and don't pretend to. Yes, I have a strong mechanical background, but I don't know everything. That's where members like yourself can help me help others with information I can't find, or obtain. Speaking about money...the only thing the money from the paid subscriptions pays for is for the overhead to run the forum, the manuals. None of the moderators get any kind of income it is all volunteer. Sorry for the runaway rant, but if you can help, please do. :cheers:
Thanks ...Karl

 

[meirvin]

Ok I am all about sharing and helping as that is how I learned what I know as I couldn't change oil 3 years ago

RXP, RXT, GTX Wear Ring/Impeller xchange

Tools you need:

12mm Allen
Impeller tool (resembles pump shaft/different for GTX & RXP)
Bench vice
3 foot piece of strong pipe to slip the 12mm Allen into for use as pry bar
13mm socket with extension for venturi (and pump support pm GTX)
17mm socket with extension for pump housing
Pair of 10mm open wrentches, sockets or ratchet wrenches
Small Allen for pump cone removal
Smaller Allen for trim (RXP)
Blue and/or Red loctite
Anti-seize (optional)
Sea Doo Bearing Grease (only if needed)


Removing the Pump:

1. Use 13mm to remove bolts from pump support brace (GTX)
2. Use 10mm to remove OPAS bolts from OPAS arms
3. Use smaller Allen to remove pivot bolt from trim arm (RXP)
4. Don't remove the spring, you don't need to unless you are changing venturis
5. Use 10mm to remove steering cable linkage
6. Use 10mm to remove reverse linkage
7. Use 13mm with extension to remove venturi (use a drill to speed it up)
8. Use 17mm with extenstion to remove pump housing (again drill, just make sure you go easy as not to damage anything)
9. Slide the pump housing off the pump shaft and out of the ski


Changing the Prop:

10. Remove pump nose cone (either pops off or is threaded depending on year/make)
11. Put impeller tool in vice facing splines up
12. Slide pump impeller splines side down on the impeller tool
13. Use medium Allen to remove three bolts from pump cone
14. Lightly tap nose cone with rubber mallot until you get some space
15. Gently rock pump cone back and forth to work it out (Might need a flat head screwdriver the first time, but be gentle)
16. Once pump cone is removed, you will see the 12mm Allen hole
17. Put 12mm Allen in this spot and slide breaker bar/pipe down the end of the Allen
18. Turn counter clockwise to loosen (and clockwise to tighten.)
19. Loosen the Allen until it gets easy enough to turn by hand.
20. Take the pump off the vice/impeller tool and use your hand on the impeller and 12mm Allen to spin the prop off the shaft.


Swapping out wear rings:
(If you are swapping wear rings, add these steps. If not, just jump to the next section)

21. Once you get the prop out, take off the rubber pump seal
22. Pop the whole pump in the freezer for a little while.
23. Place the new wear ring in there too.
24. After an hour or two and its nice and cold, take it all out of the freezer.
25. Grab the damaged (white) wear ring with some channel locks and it will slide right out.
26. Slide the new one in
27. Replace the pump seal (and put a little marine grease around it.)


Putting it All Back Together:

Now working in reverse from step 20 to 13, replace the prop. You might want to put some anti seize on the prop shaft threads. And make sure to use some sort of loctite when putting the venturi and pump bolts back in. I would recommend blue on the venturi and blue on the pump housing until you find a final prop pitch. Then use red loctite on the pump housing bolts.

As far as how tight. I do the little bolts just snug and let the loctite do the rest. On the prop, I just lean into it until it stops spinning. But on the pump bolts, I crank the hell out of them. I don't know what the real specs are. I also like to check and clean the seal of the pump housing before putting it back into the ski.

I don't know that it makes a difference, but I clean the area where the pump housing slides into the pump shoe. Then I put a thin layer of Marine Grease on it to make sure it mates up well. When you go to slide the pump housing back in you may have to lift the shaft coming from the ski to get it to slide in. Once on the shaft, the pump may stop an inch out. This means the prop needs to be lined up on the splines. I usually just back it up a hair and reach over the top of the pump with my fingers and turn the prop slightly. I just repeat that process until it successfully slides flush with the mounting points.

Then start at step 8 and work backwards:

8. Use 17mm with extenstion to tighten pump housing (again drill, just make sure you go easy as not to damage anything)
7. Use 13mm with extension to tighten venturi (use a drill to speed it up)
6. Use 10mm to tighten reverse linkage
5. Use 10mm to tighten steering cable linkage
4. Don't remove the spring, you don't need to unless you are changing venturis
3. Use smaller Allen to tighten pivot bolt from trim arm (RXP)
2. Use 10mm to tighten OPAS bolts from OPAS arms
1. Use 13mm to tighten bolts from pump support brace (GTX)[/u]

 

[kustomkarl]

Thanks for the CORRECT information!

Thanks for the input. I really appreciate it! Especially since I couldn't find the exact info. This place is all about helping each other out. That's why I do all I can... Thanks again. If you need anything let me know. I have access to all the manuals in the library and parts books too.

Karl

 

[stevekester@charter.net]

Wow, this is complicated...

...custom tools, pipes for added torque, etc.

I got two dealer estimates to do the work and they were $150 and $250. While I have to haul my RXPs to the dealer, it sounds like it might be worth it.

I appreciate your efforts and will let the board know the outcome.

 

[kustomkarl]

It isn't as simple as just pulling the impeller Jet Pump... as the technology gets better so is the technical knowledge needed to repair them. We can only offer the procedures to repair it, it's up to your skill level to do it or bring it to the dealer. Keep us posted on the outcome.

Karl

 

[meirvin]

the impeller tool is $24, the pipe is like $5 at home depot, the rest are common tools but to each his own. The knowledge is more for DIY's and performance junkies