One of my 2001 GTX RFI's started blowing the 5A Fuse on the MPEM. After replacing the entire unit with a used one I decided to try and find the problem with the original. After opening the MPEM and spending a few hours of carefully scrapping out and removing the black rubber stuff, the circuit board was able to be removed from the housing. Another hour of carefully scrapping some of the same black stuff from the board revealed an Automotive Transient Suppressor Diode (MR2535) that was shorted to ground causing the fuse to blow. The component is located very near to the fuse location (See attached pic). The replacement part was ordered online for about $4 + shipping along with some circuit board potting compound (the black rubber stuff). Once the diode was replaced the unit was tested and worked fine. The board was placed back into the housing and was re-potted. It is now in the watercraft and has been working fine all season. Hopefully this post will help some of the do-it- yourselfers save a few $$ if you have the same problem.
RFI MPEM 5A Fuse blows - problem found
- Thread starter waiteman1
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Good job. You might be able to make a few bucks doing this repair for people.
bmwbirdman
New Member
Mpem fuse blowing
My 98 GSX had the same problem. I bought a brand new Mpem and it did the same thing. Finally, I pulled the exhaust and pulled the end of the engine, after removing the motor mount. Turned out the stator assy was burned to a crisp. Bought another on Ebay and problem solved. Now I have a brand new Mpem to sell on Ebay but no more fuse blowing.
My 98 GSX had the same problem. I bought a brand new Mpem and it did the same thing. Finally, I pulled the exhaust and pulled the end of the engine, after removing the motor mount. Turned out the stator assy was burned to a crisp. Bought another on Ebay and problem solved. Now I have a brand new Mpem to sell on Ebay but no more fuse blowing.
peddlerman2001
New Member
new MPEM,now dead and blows 5 amp fuse second you touch it to MPEM
HI, NOW WITH NEW MPEM I'M BLOWING THE 5 AMP FUSE AND NOTHING IS WORKING, NO BEEPS. WHEN I INSTALL MPEM I GOT THE 2 BEEPS ENGINE STARTED FOR SECOND, THEN ONE LONG BEEP AND EVERYTHING NOW NOT WORKING. WHAT TOLD YOU TO CHECK STARTER ASSY.? i TALKED TO SEADOO DEALERS HE SAYS IT'LL BE AROUND $2,000.00 TO FIX CAUSE OF ALL THE NEEDED PARTS. I'M THINKING HE SEES SUCKER ALL OVER MY FOREHEAD???? IF YOU HAVE ANY IMPUT I'D SURE APPRECIATE IT. I WAS TOLD TO BUT A MPEM FOR GTS ITS THE SAME AND WOULD WORK IN MY 2000 GTX. IT CAME WITH A LANYARD THAT WAS PROGRAM TO THE MPEM i BOUGHT. WHEN I INSTALLED MPEM GOT THE 2 BEEPS AND THOUGHT I WAS GOOD TO GO, GOT IT TO START,FOR SECOND EVERYTHING DIED AFTER ONE LONG BEEP. NOW IT'S DEAD, BUT IF I TRY TO INSTALL 5 AMP FUSE IT BLOWS THE FUSE JUST BY BARELY TOUCHING IT TO MPEM.
HI, NOW WITH NEW MPEM I'M BLOWING THE 5 AMP FUSE AND NOTHING IS WORKING, NO BEEPS. WHEN I INSTALL MPEM I GOT THE 2 BEEPS ENGINE STARTED FOR SECOND, THEN ONE LONG BEEP AND EVERYTHING NOW NOT WORKING. WHAT TOLD YOU TO CHECK STARTER ASSY.? i TALKED TO SEADOO DEALERS HE SAYS IT'LL BE AROUND $2,000.00 TO FIX CAUSE OF ALL THE NEEDED PARTS. I'M THINKING HE SEES SUCKER ALL OVER MY FOREHEAD???? IF YOU HAVE ANY IMPUT I'D SURE APPRECIATE IT. I WAS TOLD TO BUT A MPEM FOR GTS ITS THE SAME AND WOULD WORK IN MY 2000 GTX. IT CAME WITH A LANYARD THAT WAS PROGRAM TO THE MPEM i BOUGHT. WHEN I INSTALLED MPEM GOT THE 2 BEEPS AND THOUGHT I WAS GOOD TO GO, GOT IT TO START,FOR SECOND EVERYTHING DIED AFTER ONE LONG BEEP. NOW IT'S DEAD, BUT IF I TRY TO INSTALL 5 AMP FUSE IT BLOWS THE FUSE JUST BY BARELY TOUCHING IT TO MPEM.
grab a multimeter and red into your fuse and black to a ground wire, if it reads 0000 then chances r the diode is shot. When you said new mpem was a new used item? if the mpem was sold as a working unit then its going to be your stator or rectifier.
As for the diode repair yea its an easy enough fix, I did the same on my speedster and it is working just fine. I paid 10 bucks for 4 of them. Just have to take your time picking away at the potting mix.
As for the diode repair yea its an easy enough fix, I did the same on my speedster and it is working just fine. I paid 10 bucks for 4 of them. Just have to take your time picking away at the potting mix.
bmwbirdman
New Member
Fuse blowing
I went through the same thing. At the very end of the motor toward the front of the boat you will see a gray plu. This is the stator connection. Unplug and see if fuse blows. If it doesn't your stator is the problem. Not terribly hard to fix. I bought one on ebay for $125 with the cover and works perfectly. You have to remove the exhaust to pull the cover and have to pull motor mount and make sure you mark everything and put shims back the same. I would dare say it is your stator. Mine was all black on 3 of the coils.
I went through the same thing. At the very end of the motor toward the front of the boat you will see a gray plu. This is the stator connection. Unplug and see if fuse blows. If it doesn't your stator is the problem. Not terribly hard to fix. I bought one on ebay for $125 with the cover and works perfectly. You have to remove the exhaust to pull the cover and have to pull motor mount and make sure you mark everything and put shims back the same. I would dare say it is your stator. Mine was all black on 3 of the coils.
not to hijack the thread but how do I get the stator out of my 97 GTI? I've unplugged the 4 wire grey connector at front top of motor and the 5A fuse doesn't pop anymore. I pulled the front cover off and now I can see the flywheel, what next? Do I have to pull the flywheel to get to the stator? Is there a tool to hold the flywheel so I can remove the nut on it?
bmwbirdman
New Member
Stator assy. removal
It is actually way easier than you think! I would probably remove the 2 allen bolts holding on the oil pump and leave it hanging by the cable and remove the cover. It will feel like it is kind of stuck because the magnets from the flywheel have it. Pull straight out and the stator will be attached to the cover. If you see some of the windings are a different color than others there is your problem. Your stator has a dead short. I bought a good one on ebay with the cover for $120 which is a steal of a deal. They retail for around $300 from Seadoo. By the way I have an Mpem I bought brand new I didn't need in case you know anyone needing one. $950 part and I will sell for $350.
It is actually way easier than you think! I would probably remove the 2 allen bolts holding on the oil pump and leave it hanging by the cable and remove the cover. It will feel like it is kind of stuck because the magnets from the flywheel have it. Pull straight out and the stator will be attached to the cover. If you see some of the windings are a different color than others there is your problem. Your stator has a dead short. I bought a good one on ebay with the cover for $120 which is a steal of a deal. They retail for around $300 from Seadoo. By the way I have an Mpem I bought brand new I didn't need in case you know anyone needing one. $950 part and I will sell for $350.
2000 gts. here is the background. after the winter filled up with gas started the ski no problem. got ski to lake started no problem, idle out then hit the gas. ski died and had nothing, no beep, nota when you put on kill switch. changed battery still nothing, found the 5amp cb blown. replaced and when battery was hooked up fuse blew again. I think it maybe a ground problem but not sure where to start. looking for some ideas. i was hoping it wasnt a mpem but sounds like it maybe with all the replies above. the thing is immedatley when we hook up the battery it pops the cb? any help would be great
All Things Custom
New Member
s3jetman,
PM me... This is similar to a repair I do but I use an upgraded component to avoid future blows down the road.
PM me... This is similar to a repair I do but I use an upgraded component to avoid future blows down the road.
I tested the mpem following some online information and found that the mpem was the problem and not the stator. I pulled the mpem apart and tested the diode near the fuse block which tested bad, I found some correct diodes and put them in. I tested the mpem which is now working fine, then sealed it all back up. Now I get the beeps, cranks, and runs!!! Took about 2 hrs to do, since I was being careful. Thanks for everyones help. If anyone needs help with fixing it let me know
TNwatersports
New Member
Upgraded Component?
"s3jetman,
PM me... This is similar to a repair I do but I use an upgraded component to avoid future blows down the road."
I am about to make this same repair. Is there a better component that will not continue to have this problem. The old diode is hard enough to find. If there is a better solution, any help you can give would be appreciated!
"s3jetman,
PM me... This is similar to a repair I do but I use an upgraded component to avoid future blows down the road."
I am about to make this same repair. Is there a better component that will not continue to have this problem. The old diode is hard enough to find. If there is a better solution, any help you can give would be appreciated!
How do you get the mpem apart? Mine has a hard resin on the back and black plastic on the front and sides.
Yep it probably is the mpem
1998 GTS 5A MPEM Diode replacement
I have a 1998 GTS and was having trouble getting my motor to turn over even after charging the battery. After repeatedly hitting start button (Ignorantly trying to get the motor to turn more than ½ revolution) the starter quit engaging altogether and wouldn't even click. In the process I also noticed the starter was getting hot. Hoping that I had only overheated my starter, I decided to let it cool down. While I was waiting for it to cool, I felt foolish when I discovered a rope wrapped tightly around the drive shaft which was causing the sluggishness of the starter. About an hour later I got the rope out and the engine still wouldn’t even click much less crank over and it was then that I found the 5A fuse blown in the MPEM (278-001-025). Somehow, by hitting the start button repeatedly, I had destroyed my MPEM.
After reading your post I thought I might have the same problem although it was a totally different MPEM. After prying the potted module loose from the grey plastic case, I removed only the potting on the bottom side (not component side) of the board near the fuses rather than removing all the potting. This was really easy because it actually peeled off clean. I then looked for component connections on the now exposed circuit board. especially ones that went from the cold side (output side) of the 5A fuse to Ground. Actually it was the only component connected to that side of the fuse. I placed an ohmmeter across the two terminals and was exhilarated to read a dead short (forward and reverse) across what I assumed to be a diode. I then turned the module over and dug the potting out of an area of about 1/2 inch diameter over the expected area of where I hoped there was a diode and was relieved when a diode appeared. The negative (-) end of the diode is located adjacent to the 15A fuse almost under the inboard yellow/red wire and the positive (+) end is located about 1/4 inch away and between the outboard yellow/red wire and the nearest (of three) outboard black wires (1/4 inch away). Once the diode was exposed, I then cut one end of the + lead of the diode (ground side) and just to make sure, I ohmed the diode again and, “wala’, the diode was shorted. It was then a simple matter of replacing the diode (MR2535). This fixed my problem.
I suspect this same problem occurs on other MPEM’s where kick back pulses or spikes from the starter circuit or surges from jumper cables breaks down the diode. Although I didn't pursue this option myself, judging from the frequency of this type of failure I suspect that a diode replacement with higher amp ratings should be selected: one that would withstand higher or repeated spikes.
Thanks Waltman 1, without your post I would have never found my problem.
I have a 1998 GTS and was having trouble getting my motor to turn over even after charging the battery. After repeatedly hitting start button (Ignorantly trying to get the motor to turn more than ½ revolution) the starter quit engaging altogether and wouldn't even click. In the process I also noticed the starter was getting hot. Hoping that I had only overheated my starter, I decided to let it cool down. While I was waiting for it to cool, I felt foolish when I discovered a rope wrapped tightly around the drive shaft which was causing the sluggishness of the starter. About an hour later I got the rope out and the engine still wouldn’t even click much less crank over and it was then that I found the 5A fuse blown in the MPEM (278-001-025). Somehow, by hitting the start button repeatedly, I had destroyed my MPEM.
After reading your post I thought I might have the same problem although it was a totally different MPEM. After prying the potted module loose from the grey plastic case, I removed only the potting on the bottom side (not component side) of the board near the fuses rather than removing all the potting. This was really easy because it actually peeled off clean. I then looked for component connections on the now exposed circuit board. especially ones that went from the cold side (output side) of the 5A fuse to Ground. Actually it was the only component connected to that side of the fuse. I placed an ohmmeter across the two terminals and was exhilarated to read a dead short (forward and reverse) across what I assumed to be a diode. I then turned the module over and dug the potting out of an area of about 1/2 inch diameter over the expected area of where I hoped there was a diode and was relieved when a diode appeared. The negative (-) end of the diode is located adjacent to the 15A fuse almost under the inboard yellow/red wire and the positive (+) end is located about 1/4 inch away and between the outboard yellow/red wire and the nearest (of three) outboard black wires (1/4 inch away). Once the diode was exposed, I then cut one end of the + lead of the diode (ground side) and just to make sure, I ohmed the diode again and, “wala’, the diode was shorted. It was then a simple matter of replacing the diode (MR2535). This fixed my problem.
I suspect this same problem occurs on other MPEM’s where kick back pulses or spikes from the starter circuit or surges from jumper cables breaks down the diode. Although I didn't pursue this option myself, judging from the frequency of this type of failure I suspect that a diode replacement with higher amp ratings should be selected: one that would withstand higher or repeated spikes.
Thanks Waltman 1, without your post I would have never found my problem.
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atvtrailer
New Member
I am working on a 96 hx that was blowing the 5 amp fuse when only the power and ground were hooked up. I exposed the diode and checked it and it has continuity both ways which from my experience a diode is suppose to have continuity in the one direction. From searching threw post I have figured out that its a MR2535 diode, but haven't had any luck finding them except for a few websites that require a 100 minimum order. If anyone could give me a link to a website or some place that I could get the diode it would be very helpful.
I don't know for sure but the 1st place I would check is radio shack.
jaminjtown
New Member
I have a 98 gti blowing the 5A fuse. I took it to a dealer last week and they said bad computer. So I'm going to try to fix it myself. That picture would be very helpful! you can email any of the pics you have of the repair.
evil-brown
New Member
hi i got 2002 rxdi seadoo and it keep blowing 15 amp fuse or 25amp battery fuse any one know what i should check for to fix this problem?????
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