Rfi keeps blowing fuse
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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Blowing of the rectifier fuse indicates a problem with the stator or rectifier, the melting of a fuse body indicates some conductor in close proximity to the fuse is generating heat, such as a wire is overheating. I'm assuming the fuse is being melted by a heat source nearby?
Are there any fuses installed anywhere which are larger than they're supposed to be?
If you remove the rectifier fuse, does smoke or overheating still occur?
What I mean is, a fuse cannot melt from inside out but it can melt from outside in.
Are there any fuses installed anywhere which are larger than they're supposed to be?
If you remove the rectifier fuse, does smoke or overheating still occur?
What I mean is, a fuse cannot melt from inside out but it can melt from outside in.
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It's inside the electrical box in the rear. It has two 15a fuses but don't know if they are bigger than what they need to be. I haven't checked by removing the fuse. If i remove one of them, the engine turns off. The rectifier is a brand new one from seadoosource and it did this with other rectifiers and another stator
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Scrappy996
Active Member
I had a problem where my sea DOO blew a fuse every time about 10seconds after starting it. I went threw 2 fueses and then went back and looked at an old photo I took.. I had switched the 15amp with a 5amp. Hopefully the problem is nothing serious. Shawn
Can he unplug the rectifier to remove it from the system.
My point is,, if it is out of the loop and the fuse does not blow, then it is a great indication that it is a damaged rectifier itself, yes?
My point is,, if it is out of the loop and the fuse does not blow, then it is a great indication that it is a damaged rectifier itself, yes?
If that is the case,,, I would think that it is in the harness of the system and the rectifier is no longer part of the equation. However,, I do not know the system well enough to KNOW I am correct that there is no current/power feeding it through a ground or another power feed.
Scrappy996
Active Member
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I agree with what you are saying, it must be something else. Maybe perhaps a broken wire, or connection of somesort. But he said it does effect the fuse but takes longer. The rectifier might be part of the problem but like stated above, if its removed and the fuse blows it seems like its something else.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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If it is the 20A fuse for the regulator(circled in green) that blows, disconnect the regulator and retest (A test light will work in place of the fuse, the light should not glow). If by removing the regulator from the circuit the fuse no longer blows then there is a problem with regulator or stator (test stator for yellow wire continuity to ground, it should not have continuity to ground).
If the fuse still blows (the test light glows) after disconnecting the regulator then there is some kind of problem with the harness (Has someone attached a bilge pump or custom accessory?).
I'm not sure why the plastic of the other 20A fuse for MPEM power is being melted, something must be getting hot near it? Is it touching something hot?
If the fuse still blows (the test light glows) after disconnecting the regulator then there is some kind of problem with the harness (Has someone attached a bilge pump or custom accessory?).
I'm not sure why the plastic of the other 20A fuse for MPEM power is being melted, something must be getting hot near it? Is it touching something hot?
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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Hmm, it seems you have a custom made piranha harness.... Be careful reaching in there, the sea monster might be hungry!!! 
Anyway, I guess you have to trace this and confirm the wiring by following the electrical schematic.
Anyway, I guess you have to trace this and confirm the wiring by following the electrical schematic.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Agreed, if the fuse is undersized it is bound to blow. However, the regulator fuse should not blow if the engine isn't running.
27 ohms between the three phases of the stator will not cause the regulator fuse to blow, a short to ground or a defective regulator will cause the fuse to blow while the engine is off or on.
A high resistance of the stator can cause weak charging though. All three phases measured the same value though, so I'm not convinced a stator problem exists.
27 ohms between the three phases of the stator will not cause the regulator fuse to blow, a short to ground or a defective regulator will cause the fuse to blow while the engine is off or on.
A high resistance of the stator can cause weak charging though. All three phases measured the same value though, so I'm not convinced a stator problem exists.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
If the 20A fuse still blows only while running then the regulator has a shorted rectifier diode inside or the stator is shorted to ground. It's possible for the current output to exceed 15A while running, so I would be surprised the 15A fuse can survive.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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If you connect your meter leads together, does it read zero ohms on the same scale you used to measure the stator? If is reads more than zero, you have to subtract the difference.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
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According to the Seadoo manual, it seems 787 stator should be less than 1 ohm, so there may be some damage to your stator and maybe it's shorting to ground while running but not shorted as you measured it.
If the fuse doesn't blow and it's charging to at least 13.8V, then I'd say it's working. I don't like 22 Ohms though, it makes me think ther might be some damage.
If the fuse doesn't blow and it's charging to at least 13.8V, then I'd say it's working. I don't like 22 Ohms though, it makes me think ther might be some damage.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I dunno, I'd rather have a used OEM piece as opposed to a poorly made Chinese aftermarket piece IF there's some difference in quality. But, it's not rocket science to make a stator so hard to know if there's some difference in quality.
You measured the same resistance between all three phases, I cannot explain why all three are damaged by the same amount, assuming there's some damage.
If there is some physical damage, maybe a metal piece such as a screw or washer was stuck to the flywheel magnet and spinning around may have been cutting into the stator?
I think you measured the resistance before installing this used stator but I don't recall the result from the test?
Does it seem to be working now, or does the fuse still blow?
You measured the same resistance between all three phases, I cannot explain why all three are damaged by the same amount, assuming there's some damage.
If there is some physical damage, maybe a metal piece such as a screw or washer was stuck to the flywheel magnet and spinning around may have been cutting into the stator?
I think you measured the resistance before installing this used stator but I don't recall the result from the test?
Does it seem to be working now, or does the fuse still blow?
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