Rattling from 1999 GSX RFI

[KTMatt]

Hi Experts,
This all started with it not starting. Thought battery, then solenoid, then starter. I took the starter apart and to my delight noticed the brushes were stuck up. I fixed, then it tried to crank but stoped. It sounded like hydrolock. So I took out the plugs and it cranked, no water. Then put plugs in no crank. I figured the starter was still bad, so I replaced the starter.

New starter same thing. This time I tried to start with loose plugs and it fired, I still had to give it gas to start it though. I heard something funny when it was trying to start sounded like electric spark. Well I started looking into maybe the jet pump being stuck. Oh yeah did a compression test 150lb each side. I moved the crank by hand and started hearing that sound again but slow. It is sounding like something in the lower end. sounds like bearing falling. The thing I can't understand is when I started it, I tightend down the plugs and was really reving and it didn't break? I took the motor out and looked in the rave but nothing looks banged up. Any Ideas, I guess I will start to take off the cylinders. One more thing. The magneto was cover in rust so I am thinking that is why it wouldn't start? Or the crank?

Thanks Matt

 

[KTMatt]

Update, I just removed cylinders and noise is NOT coming from crank. Just looked at manual. It looks like it is a bearing from the counterweight. Makes sense because it spins it around and then falls. Crap! I was hoping not to have to take everything apart. This is my first pwc motor I am taking apart. Can someone please give me any tips, or do's and dont's. I only want to do this once.
Still I am happy it wasn't the crank.
Thanks Matt

 

[kustomkarl]

Matt check out the premium membership; As a premium member you can down load a authentic seadoo manual from the seadoo manual library. In the library is a variety of manuals for almost all years and models. You can view as many as you like on line as a PDF file, or download it and print it for your personal and privet use. There are operator manuals and repair manuals for you to do your own repairs on your seadoo. The repair manuals have everything from troubleshooting, repair procedures to winterizing. It contains wire diagrams torque specs and pictures for disassemble and assemble instructions. In the spec sheets it tells everything needed to maintain oil changes, spark plug gaps, carburetor rebuilds and impeller wear ring tolerances. Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link at the top of the page for more details. If you need any help or get in a jam, we are always here to answer your questions too.

Karl

 

[KTMatt]

Thanks Karl, I already have a manual.
Just wondering, has anyone ever seen a counter shaft bearing let go?

 

[robin savell lloyd]

This is the only one I have ever seen. http://www.seadoosource.com/reservoircheck.html

 

[KTMatt]

YIKES, I am glad I caught the rattling bearing

 

[kustomkarl]

Most people don't ever check that oil.

 

[KTMatt]

Ok, I finally got the flywheel off. Had to take to local shop, because I couldn't get long enough 7mm bolts. Anyway, It turns out it is the crank bearing right behind the flywheel. The plastic broke loose that separates the ball bearings.

Question: Do you think it would be ok to just replace that end bearing on the crank shaft? Everything else looks good.

Thanks again, Matt

 

[kustomkarl]

Well, you 'll have to split the cases to check out the bearing...than check all the bearings to see if that is all that is bad.

Karl

 

[KTMatt]

Hi Kustom Karl, Yup already done, it is the only one bad. The seal failed in front of the bearing it looks like.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Sounds good...

Matt, welcome. It sounds like your gaining a lot of knowledge on the Rotax. The steps I'd take in this scenerio is to ensure, there is no roller balls that escaped and are trapped anywhere. If you can account for all the bearings, then I think you'll be fine. Just because the bearing let go, doesn't mean that you have crank damage. But, the crankshaft deflection can be out and be what caused that bearing to let go. I'm going with the idea that the plastic seal just failed because bad deflection would have caused critical damage.
If you did split the casing, this is a machined surface that will only match your motor. The casing halves are not interchangeable. You don't have to use the Bomdardier specific compound for re-assembly. I use the Permatex brand of gasket sealant "non hardening" compound. Only a super thin layer, that is very important.
Follow the procedures in your manual and you shouldn't go wrong. If you have questions, I have read the responses of several Premium Members who have great qualifications in helping you. Good luck.........!:cheers:
Oh, FYI, I got the metric bolts for my gear puller at my local "Ace Hardware" store. Jerks my chain to have all this engine re-building equipment and still have to go out and purchase "MORE" bolts...........:rofl:
Please keep the forum posted on your results. You never know who you may help along the way.
Louis

 

[KTMatt]

Matt, welcome. It sounds like your gaining a lot of knowledge on the Rotax. The steps I'd take in this scenerio is to ensure, there is no roller balls that escaped and are trapped anywhere. If you can account for all the bearings, then I think you'll be fine. Just because the bearing let go, doesn't mean that you have crank damage. But, the crankshaft deflection can be out and be what caused that bearing to let go. I'm going with the idea that the plastic seal just failed because bad deflection would have caused critical damage.
If you did split the casing, this is a machined surface that will only match your
motor. The casing halves are not interchangeable. You don't have to use the Bomdardier specific compound for re-assembly. I use the Permatex brand of gasket sealant "non hardening" compound. Only a super thin layer, that is very important.
Follow the procedures in your manual and you shouldn't go wrong. If you have questions, I have read the responses of several Premium Members who have great qualifications in helping you. Good luck.........!:cheers:
Oh, FYI, I got the metric bolts for my gear puller at my local "Ace Hardware" store. Jerks my chain to have all this engine re-building equipment and still have to go out and purchase "MORE" bolts...........:rofl:
Please keep the forum posted on your results. You never know who you may help along the way.
Louis

Thanks So Much Seadoosnipe,

I was wondering about the seal between the cases, It didn't look like there was anything. I knew from past work on splitting my banshee twin that there had to be something. This Place is Great. I will spread the word.

Oh yeah, I marked the gear on the crank and the counter shaft to line them up when I reinstall, but I am still kind of worried about perfection.

Do you think I should have my local shop do the bearing or should I take is to a specialist?

How long were the 7mm bolts you got? My puller wouldn't fit inside the magneto so I need long ones that no one had. I even went to a bolt specific shop. Maybe I just needed a new puller. My local pulled it and I gave the kid a 20.

Thanks again for good advice.
Matt from Mass

 

[kustomkarl]

Matt, If you go to any motor cycle shop you can get the special tube of "liquid packing" I have like 3 tubes called "Kawasaki Bond". This stuff lasts forever on the shelf. It is special formulated to seal the case of imperfections, and is super thin. For the puller I just bought the bolts needed from, hardened from a local bolt company in the industrial park. I think Fastenal can get them for you. Here is there address for the next time: " www.fastenal.com ". Ask the local machine shop to do the job for you. It is there job doing that kind of thing.

Karl

 

[KTMatt]

That's funny, I went to the same company in Plymouth Ma, Industrial park. They didn't have the long bolts. Oh well, I just got back from a bearing shop and the guy said I should be able to get the bearing off pretty easy using a drift to tap it off. Anybody have any suggestions were I should order bearing, seals, and gaskets.
I was just going to use SBT. Oh Yeah, I forgot to mention can I get aftermarket wrist pin bearings for this thing. What a surprise that was on the first piston. I used a 14mm socket to hold the second ones in.

Just found my answer about the wrist pin bearings on SBT website. It says there bearings are compatible with all rods.

 

[kustomkarl]

Glad you got what you needed. SBT has helped a lot of people get what they needed.

Karl

 

[derek]

timing your balance shaft

i wouldn't trust the marks you put on the gears. what if it wasn't timed right? i'm really a 720 and smaller engine guy-so far. so i have no experience with them, but there has to be a way to time the shaft correctly. if it verifys that your marks were right-then you were right. a balance shaft not timed right is worse than no balance shaft cause it is an out-of-balance shaft. could have caused the bearing failure.