Questions about carbon ring

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cyaman37

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So I'm installing my rebuilt engine from SES in my new to me 98 sportster 1800 and have questions about carbon ring. First,is it possible to have one to tight?the reason I ask this is the retaining clip that holds the ss ring does not go into the ss ring it sits just on the outside edge but on the other engine that is installed the retaining clip seams to be inside the ss ring so I'm wondering witch one is correct or does it matter?
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Are you sure the engine is seated correctly. It looks "tight" to me but it also looks like it is not in alignment.
 
It should be inside the SS ring. Make sure the C clip is seated fully, clean the groove before installation, make sure the shaft has a light amount of grease on it so you can get it apart later if needed. And I agree with CJ, your engine looks like it's out of alignment. If you haven started your boat yet, you might want to wait on finalizing the carbon seal set up so you can run the boat on the hose once you get it started and not have to be worried about the carbon seal getting damaged from getting too hot.

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I agree, it looks that way to me also. Did you use and alignment tool when you installed the motor(s)?

Lou
 
If it is out of alignment, you FOR SURE want that solved. Many have the alignment tool and will rent it to you cheap. Or, buy one and then sell it or rent it out yourself..
 
I have not lined it up yet I will align after engine break in with new carbon rings but the engine can not be adjusted forward or back it can only be moved side to side. Should the clip go inside the ss or should it be at the outside edge I'm not sure the clip I have is correct "it was on the shaft when I got the boat but that motor had been removed from the boat prior to me buying the boat, it sits on the outside edge of the ss and on the other drive line the ss is over the clip.i need to know witch is correct? Can the carbon ring be made to be too tight? Will it cause excess heat on the carbon ring?


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I know it's your boat and you can do what you want, but I would advise you to align the motor before you break it in. I'm not going to argue the point just saying.

Lou
 
Thank you all for your replies. Thanks [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] those pics are exactly what I needed I'm thinking the clip that is on the shaft is wrong but I will double check for trash in the groove also. I have a new set of carbon rings to go on but I am waiting on the alignment tool to be delivered so I set the engine to the wear marks on the old carbon ring just to get the engine broke in. Lou I'm in Winter Have, Fl thank you for the offer but I've already order on from sbt.


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Lou,no arguing the point needed I'm no expert at these things. I'm here to learn from you who know better than I do. If it's best to wait until it is aligned then that is what I will do. I was just thinking the carbon rings that are in the boat are already worn unaligned I could go with them for the initial break in since I will not be hammering the throttle


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The impeller will likely wipeout the wear ring in seconds if it isn't aligned. That gets expensive fast if it hurts the hull and or impeller as well. Carbon seal is cheap and not the real issue of poor alignment.


Repairing and selling iPads, iPhones and Mini iPads.
 
Ok thanks,I did not think of that I was thinking the alignment was mostly for the carbon ring and as long as the drive shaft was not binding it would not effect the pump but now I know and I will wait until I align it before I run it. Thanks again.


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Ok so aligned with sbt alignment tool took it out to break in the engine the second day out after running about 10 gallons of gas through it fallowing sbt break in procedure I'm going about 3/4 throttle and make a turn and the newly rebuilt engine from SES just dies!! Found the brass gear has failed which is the same thing that was wrong with it when I sent it to SES for the rebuild. So what would make the brass gear fail? No signs of RV valve hanging up.


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cyaman37 said:
Ok so aligned with sbt alignment tool took it out to break in the engine the second day out after running about 10 gallons of gas through it fallowing sbt break in procedure I'm going about 3/4 throttle and make a turn and the newly rebuilt engine from SES just dies!! Found the brass gear has failed which is the same thing that was wrong with it when I sent it to SES for the rebuild. So what would make the brass gear fail? No signs of RV valve hanging up.


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I am assuming by brass gear you mean the RV gear/shaft. Are you running premix or oil injection? Are the 2 oil lines going to your RV cavity hooked up? There is one on each side of the cases.

 
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Premix and yes oil lines to RV are hooked up to the oil tank. Not a lack of oil issue pulled bottom line and oil flowed out along with brass shavings so I know the gear is gone.I'm thinking crank was not rebuilt with the rebuild but I paid for a premium engine rebuild. But was trying to give benefit of doubt and find other reasons for this gear to fail. Looks like he put in new RV shaft assembly and no signs of the RV itself hanging up or the clearance being too tight so all I can think of is bad bearing on crank or bent.


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That sucks, looks like you'll have to send it back. Hopefully he can give a good explanation as to what happened, just in case it was something to do with how it was installed, other then lack of oil on your part I cant think of anything else that you could have done wrong. He supplies the RV and machines the cover so the clearance should be good as well.

I have a motor on the way back from as SES as well, different issue. He looked after it without any issues, took him a couple weeks.
 
Yes it sucks,I asked him point blank if he rebuilt the crank and he said absolutely yes it was a total rebuild and my reason for questioning it is I sent it to him with the pto coupler still on it because I could not get it off and the flywheel key was jammed in the other end of the crank so there's no way he rebuilt the crank without removing them and I still can't get the pto coupler off and if he removed it to rebuild the crank it would not be hard to get back off. Now I'm not saying he did not rebuild the crank but the facts seam to add up as to he didn't. But we will see what he comes up with.


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That Pto gets cranked on fairly tight, I think around 90lbs, so it would be tough to crack loose. That mag side s just as tight but with loctite as well.

Either way I hope he didn't try and pull a fast one here. I just can't see it, especially with a 2 year warranty, he will know as well as anyone, that crank won't last long with a fresh top end on top of it, and it will be coming back to him for warranty work.

Keep us posted.

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kicker said:
He supplies the RV and machines the cover so the clearance should be good as well.

I have a motor on the way back from as SES as well, different issue. He looked after it without any issues, took him a couple weeks.
Click to expand...

I was under the understanding when I talked to Tom, that he actually doesnt machine the covers unless it is really "needed" and is a problem... I have a 717 with him right now
 
No mater the reasons why or who, I am sorry to hear you are having continued issues.

Best of luck with it and lets hope it gets resolved ASAP...
 
CReynoldsMIZ said:
I was under the understanding when I talked to Tom, that he actually doesnt machine the covers unless it is really "needed" and is a problem... I have a 717 with him right now
Click to expand...

You probably right, but either way he has to be sure it is within spec or he will be doing warranty work. When I got mine back it came with a new RV and a machined cover.



 
No matter the reason it failed yes he will take care of it,but it cost money and time to ship it back and wait for him to fix it. As for voiding warranty if I were to open the engine that would void warranty and I would not do that because I paid for a job to be done right and the warranty but removing all parts that bolt to the engine is part of shipping.


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