RESTO Picking up a 96 XP, Needs some TLC

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vogs77

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I am picking up a 96 XP this weekend that needs some TLC, bought it not running in need of starter and carb rebuild/previous owner. Going to start with starter rebuild to check compression, if it is good I will try to get it running on some premix squirted into the carbs. If that is works and it fires up time for full fuel and oil system rebuild, rave valves gone thorugh, and pump overhaul. But my first hurdle is what to clean the mildew off with, what product works the best? I have always wanted a 96 XP to go with my 96 GTX. Have some experience with the 787 on my GTX hoping for a solid motor in this ski to start with. Taking a chance on it for $450, at least I can part it out to recoup some money if motor is shot. Its going to be a slow process, still winter here but will try to keep posted on progress.
 

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Looks pretty clean!

The mold will come off with soap and water.
Except for the yellow handlebar cover as nothing will get it clean but a member here has a secret guy that somehow restores them.

For the seat the Starbrite Mildew Remover in the yellow and white bottle works great and Walmart typically has it.
 
Dude !! I wish my skis looked that good when I started. :) I go to the car wash and spray engine cleaner and bring a few magic eraser pads. I usually only need one. Your hood looks terrific so hopefully this encourages you. Ha ha. Good Luck man !!

1996XP -2019.jpeg1996 XP Go-Fast in Shop Paint (1).JPEG
 
Next time I sit in my "Thinking Chair" I'm gonna study on an easier way of resurrecting the hood.. I found a pretty cool way for the last couple. I get my wife to do it. :D :D I hate to see her work that hard though. I brought her some water so she wouldn't get tired too quick. I hate to spoil her like that but it was in the interest of productivity. :)
 
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If those parts in the footwell are from this ski, there isn't gonna be any squirting of gas into the intake to start it. It looks like someone's been in there tearing things apart.
 
Yea they are, the air box and mesh screen are removed P.O. was going to do the carbs but lost interest. The carbs are still on the ski.
 
Got the ski home today and gave it a quick clean up. Looks good but the handle bar cover is still a mess, but it is not soft and sticky like one of my old skis was. I had a couple of minutes so I put my battery in it to see what would happen, no beeps but the beeper may be bad, the info display only lit up for a second when I put the key on it, not sure what than means. Ran out of time for today and with bad weather coming in things will progress slowly. Any advise on what to start with first to try to get this to crank would be great. I will open the fuse boxes when I have some time to check them first. I put my incorrect key on it from my GTS and the same thing happened with the display. When I hit the start button the display will light up for 1 second also and then go out but no crank. Looking forward to a challenge hope this doesn't defeat me.
 

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Graphics are original to the ski still but are in nice shape. Noviceskier, I am going to remove the oil tank after I get the electrical stuff sorted out and check the tank out then.
 
Mikidymac who on here programs keys and what does it cost? Can the person that programs the keys verify that the MPEM is operating properly at that time? I am not familiar with the process. Is it possible for a key chip to go bad, the key is in pretty bad shape, pic attached. What exactly will the ski display do if it has a bad key?

Next question the 96 XP has 2 boxes 1 in front and one in the back, which one houses the MPEM?

My first plan of attack after reading some post and the repair manual will be this.
1. Check all fuses.
2. Test key post and starter button as directed in repair manual manual.
3. Install a new beeper, I have on that I was going to put in my GTS but is started working again.
4. Try to enter diagnostic mode on the ski, will this verify if my MPEM is opperational?
 

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Nick and Jess at Westside Powersports Seadoo can test it and program a new lanyard for I think $80.

The MPEM is in the front gray box.

The easiest test is install a good strong battery making sure you connect the big black ground cable and the little black ground cable at the rear electric box.

Then without using the lanyard push the start button a bunch of times and the gauges should power up. This tells you the MPEM is waking up then you can mess with the lanyard.
 
Still working on gathering info for some diag time this weekend. I was looking in the owners manual that I downloaded for the wiring diagrams, it says they are in section 14 but it ends at 13. Where can I find the wiring diagram for the 96 XP?

I had a coupe minutes before the rain today, hope for some better weather and time this weekend, so I threw in the battery and hit the start button 5 times. Fuel and Oil lights lit up but nothing else, fuel and oil are empty, does this mean the MPEM is powering up. Opened up front grey box too, all clean and dry inside it.

I did find someone moved the ground wire from the starter to one of the head bolts, I am sure it is painted and has a bad connection so that is added to the list of things to fix first. What is the thread size and pitch of the ground bolt on the side of the starter?

Midi thanks for all your help
 
You might have a head leak too as the head of the bolt seals water in.

For the size make sure it’s stainless it’s an 8mmx1.25 pitch 16mm long.
 
<snip> Where can I find the wiring diagram for the 96 XP?

I did find someone moved the ground wire from the starter to one of the head bolts, I am sure it is painted and has a bad connection so that is added to the list of things to fix first.

The wiring diagram is in the shop manual uploaded to Seadoomanuals.net.
You are on the right track fixing any modified wiring. When replacing wires, coat the terminals in dialectric grease and make sure you have shiny metal on both surfaces.
 
I got the ski in the garage today for some electrical testing later. Can I leave the plug off of the front of the motor while trying to find out why the ski will not start, much easier to work in the front electrical box with it pulled forward. Will it still crank normally if I can get to that point with it unplugged. I don't want to make a problem while trying to figure this out.

On a good note both boxes clean and dry inside, no corrosion either. All fuses good too.
 
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Can I leave the plug off of the front of the motor while trying to find out why the ski will not start,

Instead do this, just pull the large 12 v post off the starter solenoid, the either one, batt or starter side. That way when it makes the loud click when the large poles close, you know the starter will engage.

If you pull the plug on the front of the engine nothing will come on, you still need to complete the ground loop to the engine.
 
Checked my DESS post/repair manual, checked starter button, disconnected all the electrical connectors inspected and greased, and got my beeper working temporarily. I got my 2 beeps when the key was connected but it still was not getting power to the starter wire that I had disconnected and no click from the solenoid. As I was going to inspect the solenoid I removed the lid from the back box again and the plug fell off of it. Previous owner started to try to fix the ski but gave up and must have had the plug off, I didn't see it because the rubber boot was covering it. Plugged it back in and now we have power to the starter. The starter is bad and the previous owner supplied a new aftermarket one I will put in temporarily to confirm compression. I broke my 6mm so that will have to wait for another day. I will rebuild the old starter and install it when I do the carbs if the engine checks out ok. Also removed verified the engine spins freely with plugs out, fogged the cyls too. Looked in the cylinders with my bore scope and I didn't see any major scoring, tops of the pistons have some carbon but are smooth. Project looking up for now and I will keep posting as I make more progress.

Who makes a good starter rebuild kit?
 
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The $20 ones from eBay work fine I think Caltrix or something like that.

The last time I tried the ones on Amazon they had the wrong parts in the boxes.
 
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