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Paranoid to Winterize
- Thread starter sbhcom
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I would like to know if I hook up a hose to the flush inlet and pump antifreeze thru the system that would be enough to protect pwc from winter...The manual is hard to understand, The process involves disconnecting a hose, attaching pinch clamps to other hoses, filling the system with antifreeze and releasing the pinch clamps in a specific order and the pictures are for crap.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Why not grab a shop manual and follow the procedure instead of asking someone on the internet to write one for you, you're going to need a manual at some point anyway......
AdamXP800
Well-Known Member
The manual is pretty straight forward on this procedure. Not much you can really mess up here. Just don't run the water through the engine unless it is running. Engine on water on, water off engine off. That's the main issue you want to be careful with.
Fog the motor thoroughly
Grease necessary components
Flush it and then funnel in some RV antifreeze
Fog the motor thoroughly
Grease necessary components
Flush it and then funnel in some RV antifreeze
Thanks for the replies, I have read thru the owners manual and the shop manual both suck as far as locating the actual hoses when it comes time to actually find them in the machine as the pictures look like something taken in the 1960's. Very simply: Can I just flush the pwc thru the flush inlet with antifreeze to protect it this winter? I know I have to fog and top off with stabilizer. I am very good at mechanical as I do lots of work on my cars brakes, shocks, etc. but the manuals suck so bad on these pwcs that I just cannot follow them.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I think this drawing of the cooling system should help you:
http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...asp?Type=18&make=seadoopwc&a=224&b=9&Action=O
I kind of like your plan so far, except I think I would disconnect the fitting item #37 to make sure there's no fresh water in the stator cover jacket. Once the antifreeze is in, fire off the ski for a few seconds like you probably always do after taking out of water to blow out anything remaining in the exhaust, as well.
It's really not necessary to use a pump though, just pinch the block drain and pour the anti freeze into the cylinder head inlet to get the anti freeze in.
FOG it too, after the water/antifreeze mix is blown out the exhaust. First, let it sit for half an hour and cool down, then you can start the ski without cooling water and let it run up to 30secs, at which time fog it good. It should smoke like the woods are on fire.
http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...asp?Type=18&make=seadoopwc&a=224&b=9&Action=O
I kind of like your plan so far, except I think I would disconnect the fitting item #37 to make sure there's no fresh water in the stator cover jacket. Once the antifreeze is in, fire off the ski for a few seconds like you probably always do after taking out of water to blow out anything remaining in the exhaust, as well.
It's really not necessary to use a pump though, just pinch the block drain and pour the anti freeze into the cylinder head inlet to get the anti freeze in.
FOG it too, after the water/antifreeze mix is blown out the exhaust. First, let it sit for half an hour and cool down, then you can start the ski without cooling water and let it run up to 30secs, at which time fog it good. It should smoke like the woods are on fire.
thank you for the reply:
It's really not necessary to use a pump though, just pinch the block drain and pour the anti freeze into the cylinder head inlet to get the anti freeze in. (Do I need to do this if I pump a gallon into the flush inlet?)
FOG it too, after the water/antifreeze mix is blown out the exhaust. First, let it sit for half an hour and cool down, then you can start the ski without cooling water and let it run up to 30secs, at which time fog it good. It should smoke like the woods are on fire.[/QUOTE]
It's really not necessary to use a pump though, just pinch the block drain and pour the anti freeze into the cylinder head inlet to get the anti freeze in. (Do I need to do this if I pump a gallon into the flush inlet?)
FOG it too, after the water/antifreeze mix is blown out the exhaust. First, let it sit for half an hour and cool down, then you can start the ski without cooling water and let it run up to 30secs, at which time fog it good. It should smoke like the woods are on fire.[/QUOTE]
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Here's what I would do, how's this sound?:
Stabilize fuel, fill tank full with sta-bil treated fuel if not draining completely during storage period.
Disconnect quick fitting connector at bottom of mag cover and allow fresh water to drain. Leave disconnected till later step.
Start ski without cooling water let run for less than 30secs to blow water out of exhaust and vibration will help shake water out of drains.
Pinch engine block drain hose.
Disconnect water inlet hose at cylinder head and pour in 1/2 gal of non-toxic RV antifreeze, reconnect hose.
Unpinch engine block drain hose.
Reconnect quick fitting at mag cover (Is pink antifreeze present, hopefully answer is yes).
Remove airbox for fogging, start ski and shoot both intakes with fogging oil. Shut off engine within 30secs, should be smoking out of exhaust by then. Remove plugs, look for moisture (hopefully none), shoot a bit of fogging oil in cylinders (short shot or two, don't drop fogging can nozzle straw inside please) replace plugs.
Reinstall airbox
Use turkey baster to sop up water from bilge, remove drain plug.
Spray engine with coating of CRC protectant oil.
Disconnect battery, remove for indoor storage maint.
Remove pump nozzles, change pump oil, blow out water and pressure check if water is found, refill, reassemble.
You could even repack the trailer bearings.
Stabilize fuel, fill tank full with sta-bil treated fuel if not draining completely during storage period.
Disconnect quick fitting connector at bottom of mag cover and allow fresh water to drain. Leave disconnected till later step.
Start ski without cooling water let run for less than 30secs to blow water out of exhaust and vibration will help shake water out of drains.
Pinch engine block drain hose.
Disconnect water inlet hose at cylinder head and pour in 1/2 gal of non-toxic RV antifreeze, reconnect hose.
Unpinch engine block drain hose.
Reconnect quick fitting at mag cover (Is pink antifreeze present, hopefully answer is yes).
Remove airbox for fogging, start ski and shoot both intakes with fogging oil. Shut off engine within 30secs, should be smoking out of exhaust by then. Remove plugs, look for moisture (hopefully none), shoot a bit of fogging oil in cylinders (short shot or two, don't drop fogging can nozzle straw inside please) replace plugs.
Reinstall airbox
Use turkey baster to sop up water from bilge, remove drain plug.
Spray engine with coating of CRC protectant oil.
Disconnect battery, remove for indoor storage maint.
Remove pump nozzles, change pump oil, blow out water and pressure check if water is found, refill, reassemble.
You could even repack the trailer bearings.
FOG IT FIRST, after all that comes first in the manual BEFORE the winterization process--pretty cool how that works 
0.Put Sta-Bil in the gas on your last ride
1. Fog it
2. Disconnect the quick disconnect on the front of the Mag housing, hold QD(quick disconnect) down to drain the water, reconnect when done
3. Stand behind your ski and look in at your engine, on the right side locate the clear hose that has a "T", put the hose pincher AFTER the "T" closest to the back of the ski
4. Put a hose pincher on the UPPER hose coming from the cylinder head--the head has an arrow facing the back of the ski--this is where I get an expansion plug from a pool place (#4 size) and put it in the flush port in the back of the pump mounting plate(on the back of the ski by the pump).
5. Disconnect the lower INLET hose from the "T" fitting. This is the lower hose that goes into the lower port on the cylinder head. Now use a funnel and pour antifreeze into the hose you just connected that is going to the cylinder head until the antifreeze comes out the clear line on the top of the exhaust manifold that come out the pisser on the back of the ski.
6. Now pinch the the other side of the big black line that you disc connected to FILL the antifreeze and pour anti freeze into that "T" fitting to get 10 oz. into the water box.
7. Reconnect everything
This is really an easy deal, the manual is straight forward and the pics are good--you are probably getting confused with all the pics, just look at the ones marked RFI and you're good to go.I think this is correct, it's from the manual and how I would interpret it. Perhaps someone with an RFI can verify it. Here's another thread I did for the jet boats but not RFI's HERE, sorry for the lack of pics, I already exceeded my bandwidth from photobucket for the month. Pic should be back up on the 16th of September. I have been getting too many views on my pics.
Pinchers
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=98&division=1&category=22
or one of these for the heavy black hoses
0.Put Sta-Bil in the gas on your last ride
1. Fog it
2. Disconnect the quick disconnect on the front of the Mag housing, hold QD(quick disconnect) down to drain the water, reconnect when done
3. Stand behind your ski and look in at your engine, on the right side locate the clear hose that has a "T", put the hose pincher AFTER the "T" closest to the back of the ski
4. Put a hose pincher on the UPPER hose coming from the cylinder head--the head has an arrow facing the back of the ski--this is where I get an expansion plug from a pool place (#4 size) and put it in the flush port in the back of the pump mounting plate(on the back of the ski by the pump).
5. Disconnect the lower INLET hose from the "T" fitting. This is the lower hose that goes into the lower port on the cylinder head. Now use a funnel and pour antifreeze into the hose you just connected that is going to the cylinder head until the antifreeze comes out the clear line on the top of the exhaust manifold that come out the pisser on the back of the ski.
6. Now pinch the the other side of the big black line that you disc connected to FILL the antifreeze and pour anti freeze into that "T" fitting to get 10 oz. into the water box.
7. Reconnect everything
This is really an easy deal, the manual is straight forward and the pics are good--you are probably getting confused with all the pics, just look at the ones marked RFI and you're good to go.I think this is correct, it's from the manual and how I would interpret it. Perhaps someone with an RFI can verify it. Here's another thread I did for the jet boats but not RFI's HERE, sorry for the lack of pics, I already exceeded my bandwidth from photobucket for the month. Pic should be back up on the 16th of September. I have been getting too many views on my pics.
Pinchers
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=98&division=1&category=22
or one of these for the heavy black hoses
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Exactly, that's probably the most critical part.
I prefer fogging LAST, that way I know got any liquid in the exhaust cleared.
But, I won't argue with the factory procedure.
Thanks Guys! I think I am ready now. I ordered these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YKHRUK/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Will get some fogging spray, Stabil, a funnel, CRC protectant, Antifreeze and get to work!! Thank you for all the replies and being patient with me on this, I feel more confident and I'm sure when I do it once I'll have it down packed....maybe a little nervous till next summer LOL. You guys have been great!! And in the fall I'm sure I'll have some questions on the jet pump oil change!!
Will get some fogging spray, Stabil, a funnel, CRC protectant, Antifreeze and get to work!! Thank you for all the replies and being patient with me on this, I feel more confident and I'm sure when I do it once I'll have it down packed....maybe a little nervous till next summer LOL. You guys have been great!! And in the fall I'm sure I'll have some questions on the jet pump oil change!!
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