P1544 code

[Krolik100]

Got this Speedster 2007 with Supercharged Rotax. Few times this year got P 1544 - exhaust overheating code.
1. Where is the inlet where water is drawn to cool exhaust?
2. Is pup forcing it through black pump plug with multiple holes?
3. It is hard to unscrew it from outside of the pump without breaking - any suggestions?
4. How is water forced though manifold, J tube and further on.
Please only people who know, or direct me to diagram. I researched this open loop, but still unsure.

 

[POPPS]

You should not be unscrewing ANYTHING,,your inlet cooling hose comes from within the high pressure area of the pump,,,goes into the bottom of the IC. Then into the exhaust manifold..remove your engine cover,,,have a very strong flashlight…and with your hand at the IC.,,,you should be able to ”feel” the hoses..and follow their respective paths,,,,since I assume the pump is not plugged,,check that you do not have cavitation…you know,,,worn wear ring…mangled prop,,that is where the pump forces water into the IC and cooling system

 

[Krolik100]

You should not be unscrewing ANYTHING,,your inlet cooling hose comes from within the high pressure area of the pump,,,goes into the bottom of the IC. Then into the exhaust manifold..remove your engine cover,,,have a very strong flashlight…and with your hand at the IC.,,,you should be able to ”feel” the hoses..and follow their respective paths,,,,since I assume the pump is not plugged,,check that you do not have cavitation…you know,,,worn wear ring…mangled prop,,that is where the pump forces water into the IC and cooling system

 

[Krolik100]

I thought that this part ( black, plastic, plug) is what water have to be forced trough on the way from pump further on to manifold and IC. This plug is screwed in to pump housing and accessible from outside. The other end is a screen with multiple holes ( filter) and water is forced ( filtered) trough them. Am I correct? If so than unscrewing this plug/filter will allow me to inspect holes in it if they aren’t clogged up. Impeller and wear rings have been recently replaced and they are perfec, so problem is somewhere on the way from black plug/filter and further on. Temp sensor is reading correctly.

 

[POPPS]

Apologies,that is the intake and filter,,,it will be clean,,,but if the prop is mangled or the wear ring is scored there will diminished water pressure to the cooling system

 

[Krolik100]

Impeller and rings are new. Somebody mentioned exhaust manifold having deposits in the walls of water jacket causing poor heat exchange. Is this common? I’m reluctant to believe that this is happening considering 80h on the boat.

 

[Krolik100]

It does, computer verified

 

[nesnfred]

If you look at a manual for factory winterization procedures, you’ll find two small hoses that connect to the IC (intercooler). Check those too. For my boat, 2008 Wake 230, the rear seat platform has a center section that has to be removed to access the boat facing side of the engines…I have two 215’s. Make sure those hoses aren’t cracked or clogged. I had to use a heat gun on mine to get them to release if you plan to remove them. There also should be a hose that connects onto a nipple on your exhaust up near the engine, I’d check that too. POPPS is the expert here, if anyone can help, it’s him.

 

[ski-d00]

I see lots of boats and skis in my area with very low hours. Just bought a 2006 with 49 hours yesterday. People use them the first year they get it and then the usage tapers down year by year until they sit. Pretty common in the midwest with short summers.

Too low of hours is not a good thing. Letting them sit for years isn't doing them any favors even if they were stored properly.

The filter in the pump is usually clean. A common problem is in the j-pipe where there are 3 small holes that can easily clog up. Another common problem is the flush line that mud daubers clog up the line which will cause the high temp alarm at high speeds.