P0106 - Tried everything!. Struggling to find solution

[davus]

Hey team.

My name's dave. New to the forum and new to JetSki's.

I apologize in advance for a fairly lengthy post. Ive scoured the internet high and low and cannot find and answer to my problem.

Im a long time boater, and long time car enthusiast. Ive rebuild many car engine (in fact full car restorations) in the past, and recently decided to try a jetski.

I bought an 09 RST IS 255 that needed a full engine rebuild. Not sure about the history, just that it needed a rebuild. I had to bored .5mm from each bore (and fit oversized pistons etc).

But........moving along. I got the ski fully rebuilt, and took it for its maiden voyage about a week ago. To my amazement (because theres usually at least a water leak from a full rebuild!), the ski performed flawlessly. Not one error, not one miss. I didn't ride it hard at all. Gave it a few little squirts to about 5000rpm, and that's as hard as I went. The ride lasted for about 2 hours at which point I took it home, rinsed it out, and parked it in the garage.

I left it there for about 4 days, and then went out into the garage to start it. Would you believe it, I couldn't find the key anywhere!. So, I headed off to buy a new one. Brought it home and using buds (which I have) coded it up to the ski. No issues there.

I started the ski, and the RPM's jumped to about 3500. They sat there for about 7-8 seconds, before starting to settle back down (this seemed a little longer than normal). When the RPM's did settle down, the ski start coughing and spluttering. It didn't stall, but wasn't happy at all. At that point, the check engine light came on, and I got the P0106 error (Manifold pressure sensor out of range).

From here forward, its been a NIGHTMARE!. Below are my findings so far.

1) I found that it actually had a leaking intercooler. I bought a new one and fitted it.
2) I purchased a new MAP sensor and fitted it.
3) I removed the inlet manifold to ensure there was no water or residue left in it. It was a little dirty inside. I cleaned it up, dried it out, and refitted it.
4) I visually inspected the inlet manifold to ensure no cracks etc.
5) I changed the throttle body over to another working one I have (and using buds, reset the TB position).
6) I have confirmed that PIN3 (the analog voltage pin) on the MAP sensor, is outputting voltage at idle of about 1.6volts. A rev of the engine sees the voltage increase slightly, but obviously the load I can apply is limited.
7) I have disconnected both the TOPS and TAS sensors (which share the same5V feed as the MAP sensor) to ensure no overloaded current draw from those other sensors.
8) For shits and giggles, I put in new spark plugs and oil filter.
9) I have checked the fuse box to ensure everything is seated correctly with no loose connections.
10) I have remove each and every plug in the ski and cleaned with contact cleaner.

The oil is fine and not milky at all.

The symptoms are exactly the same each time I start the ski, with one small exception. When cold, the time it takes from the idle settling, to throwing the code and running rough seems to be a little longer (IE: when its warm, it settles straight into rough idling, whereas when its cold, it idles OK for about 5 seconds, then turns rough).

On the odd occasion, AFTER the code has been thrown, if I give the ski a rev, the check engine light will turn off, and the ski will rev quite freely. As soon as I let it come back down to idle, the code pops back up, and it runs rough again.

Im at a brick wall here guys. Im hoping someone can help out here and point me in the right direction as to what may be wrong. Melbourne is seeing some awesome weather at the moment, and the kids are super bummed!.

Thanks very much to anyone in advance that may be able to help.

Dave

 

[davus]

guys just a little bit more info.......

Going through buds, I dug into the MAP sensor error a little further, and found the following.

What this seems to indicate is that at the point the fault occurred (2387 rpm) with a tps of only 4%, the manifold pressure was allegedly 61kpa. 61kpa converts to around 8.8psi.

I find it HIGHLY unlikely that the manifold is experiencing nearly 9psi of pressure at only 2300rpm, and basically zero throttle.

So this begs the question, is it the sensor throwing this dodgy info to the ECU, or is it the ECU interpreting it incorrectly.

Remembering, I did get a new sensor which I install BEFORE I gave the manifold a clean out. But.......having said that...........also remember that the manifold only had very minor residue in it. Nothing that I would call serious at all.

Suggestions guys?. Does this help to try and diagnose the issue any further?.

Dave

 

[Sea Dood]

Couple points:

1. You are not interpreting manifold pressure properly. Static ambient air pressure is 100 kPa or 14.7 PSI. So your reading of 8.8 PSI is a vacuum, which is consistent with the engine slightly off idle.

2. MAP sensors don't like water. Your replacement sensor may have been damaged.

If this were my ski, I would replace the sensor again. If that doesn't fix it, then it might be the ECU.

 

[davus]

Hi Sea Dood,

Thanks very much for clarifying that. Every piece of information helps!.

On point 1 - What would be an acceptable value of vacuum for the ECU to be reading at idle?. Remembering the error im getting is P0106 (manifold Intake pressure sensor out of range). Do you think that 8.8psi (or 61kpa) would be "normal"?.

Dave

 

[davus]

Sorry I didn't read your post fully. From what you say, this reading is consistent with being just off idle.

So my next question would be, if the pressure reading that the ECU is receiving from the sensor is "acceptable" at idle (IE: 61kpa), wouldn't this indicate the sensor is OK and sending the right information to the ECU?.

Dave

 

[davus]

A little more information.

Went out just before and hooked up buds. I wanted to see the real time manifold pressure.

With buds hooked up, I observed the manifold pressure as being about 100kpa (which as pointed out above is pretty much spot on atmospheric pressure - to be expected.).



I then took the MAP sensor out, and blew into it with my mouth and well as sucking (sounds pretty wrong if you ask me). Sure enough I saw the manifold pressure reading within buds register what I was doing. Not much........but it did register. Seems to indicated that the MAP sensor is working OK, and that the ECU is receiving the readings (to some degree).

So then I started the ski, to see what the readings would do in buds while it was running. I simply started it and let it idle. Didn't touch the throttle at all. The check engine light you see is the Map sensor out of range fault P0106).

And again as expected, you can see an increase in vacuum.

Following on from that I gave the ski a few revs of around 50% throttle. Didn't really want to hit the RPM that I did......but hey, you get that. As you can see, both boost and vacuum were picked up by buds. Maybe im missing something, but this again seems to indicate that the MAP sensor is sending fairly appropriate data to the ECU?



By this time, (because of all the coughing and spluttering I assume) the ski has thrown a knock sensor error, and has gone into limp mode.

So, in summary, I read from this that the sensor seems to be OK. Am I missing something here?. Does anyone have any suggestion otherwise? I totally could be misinterpreting something.

I seem to be closing in on the ECU as being the fault here, but really don't want to go out and buy another one until I've exhausted other avenues as much as I can. I don't have another one to test with, nor do I really know anyone to borrow one from.

Dave

 

[ski-d00]

It's too cold here for me to get BUDS out and verify exact numbers but at idle should be very low absolute pressure reading. In your second screenshot above it is at idle but showing pressure of 85 kpa which is high meaning not enough vacuum is being created. It should be reading around 40 kpa (6 psi) at idle as I recall. This can be tested by adding a vacuum gauge to your manifold to verify pressure. Your map sensor may be working fine and something else is causing high manifold absolute pressure at idle which will cause this fault. ECU is still a possibility but I'd rule everything else out first.

 

[davus]

hi guys.

Happy to report back issue is resolved.

Believe it or not it ended up being the throttle body. Turns out both of the throttle bodies I had (despite it working when it was taken off another ski), my secondary one was also stuffed.

Working throttle body is now on the ski and everything is working OK.

Thanks for all the guidance and advice. A great was learned through this process.

Dave

 

[Coastiejoe]

Glad you got it solved. It can be VERY hard to fix a ghost...

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

What was wrong with the TB? I have an annoying hesitation on my boat using a similar 4tec, and I'm suspecting the TB. What goes bad on them? How do you tell/test? Can I do it without BUDS?

 

[RSGarm]

hi guys.

Happy to report back issue is resolved.

Believe it or not it ended up being the throttle body. Turns out both of the throttle bodies I had (despite it working when it was taken off another ski), my secondary one was also stuffed.

Working throttle body is now on the ski and everything is working OK.

Thanks for all the guidance and advice. A great was learned through this process.

Dave

Dave, thanks for posting all of the details and the resolution. It turns out I am experiencing the exact same problem with my 2013 RXP-X. But my problem started with code P1614, a sticky throttle actuator.

I pulled the air intake hose off the TB, started it up, connected flush water and sure enough the intercooler was leaking water into the air intake. Purchased and installed an aftermarket intercooler and then pulled the TB off to clean and lube. It took about 20 minutes of working the throttle plate back and forth with my fingers, but finally got full range of motion back. Reinstalled the TB, and code P1614 was gone, but unfortunately replaced by code P0106.

Upon starting the RPM's jump to 3500 and sit there for a few seconds, before coming back down to a very rough idle and the check engine light comes on. Rev it up and the check engine light goes off, but then it comes back on as soon as the rough idle returns. Just like you, replaced the MAP sensor with a known good one, but that did not change anything.

I suspected the problem was still the TB, because even though I got the throttle plate to move in the full range of motion, I could tell it was not as smooth as it should be, seemed like the bearings on the shaft that holds and moves the plate were not up to par.

Everyone knows the cost to purchase a Sea Doo OEM electronic TB is US$800. Rather than dropping that much coin, I purchased a brand new Bosch TB for US$135 from RockAuto.com. It's Bosch part #0280750009 and is OEM equipment on 2000 to 2006 Audi and VW 1.8L gas engines. According to other forums, this is a plug & play replacement for the Sea Doo OEM TB, with the exception that the Sea Doo OEM gasket and mounting bolts can't be used. Once it arrives, I will update post with the results of this money saving endeavor.

As a Plan B, I am shipping the OEM Sea Doo TB off to a company called "BBA Reman" who rebuilds TB's. Their website in the US is: bba-reman.com. Don't have a firm quote, but they told me the cost would likely be below US$250, if nothing out of the ordinary is wrong.

 

[Digdog]

You should calibrate the throttle body, then all will be correct. Maybe nothing wrong with your old ones.

 

[RSGarm]

You should calibrate the throttle body, then all will be correct. Maybe nothing wrong with your old ones.

Thanks Digdog, How do you go about calibrating the throttle body? Do you need to use the BUDS system or can a weekend mechanic like me do it?

 

[ski-d00]

all you do is reset the 0 degree throttle position using BUDS when the throttle is fully closed. should be done when tb is replaced. there is no calibration other than that.

these throttle bodies are a known problem and replacement is the only solution but buying the Bosch direct works fine.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

Where do you set the Idle stop screw when resetting? I know mine has it set out a little bit from previous owner. I've never touched it.

 

[ski-d00]

You don't touch it. Idle is controlled by the ECU and is not adjustable.

 

[RSGarm]

Dave, thanks for posting all of the details and the resolution. It turns out I am experiencing the exact same problem with my 2013 RXP-X. But my problem started with code P1614, a sticky throttle actuator.

I pulled the air intake hose off the TB, started it up, connected flush water and sure enough the intercooler was leaking water into the air intake. Purchased and installed an aftermarket intercooler and then pulled the TB off to clean and lube. It took about 20 minutes of working the throttle plate back and forth with my fingers, but finally got full range of motion back. Reinstalled the TB, and code P1614 was gone, but unfortunately replaced by code P0106.

Upon starting the RPM's jump to 3500 and sit there for a few seconds, before coming back down to a very rough idle and the check engine light comes on. Rev it up and the check engine light goes off, but then it comes back on as soon as the rough idle returns. Just like you, replaced the MAP sensor with a known good one, but that did not change anything.

I suspected the problem was still the TB, because even though I got the throttle plate to move in the full range of motion, I could tell it was not as smooth as it should be, seemed like the bearings on the shaft that holds and moves the plate were not up to par.

Everyone knows the cost to purchase a Sea Doo OEM electronic TB is US$800. Rather than dropping that much coin, I purchased a brand new Bosch TB for US$135 from RockAuto.com. It's Bosch part #0280750009 and is OEM equipment on 2000 to 2006 Audi and VW 1.8L gas engines. According to other forums, this is a plug & play replacement for the Sea Doo OEM TB, with the exception that the Sea Doo OEM gasket and mounting bolts can't be used. Once it arrives, I will update post with the results of this money saving endeavor.

As a Plan B, I am shipping the OEM Sea Doo TB off to a company called "BBA Reman" who rebuilds TB's. Their website in the US is: bba-reman.com. Don't have a firm quote, but they told me the cost would likely be below US$250, if nothing out of the ordinary is wrong.

April 19th 2018 Update: I'm pleased to report the Bosch TB (part #0280 750 009) that I purchased for $135 from RockAuto.com works perfectly. It is not quite a "plug & play" replacement for the $800 Sea Doo OEM TB, because you can't use the original Sea Doo gasket and mounting bolts. I purchased a MAHLE rubber coated metal gasket (part number G31613) and four M6 x 50mm stainless steel bolts, and the Bosch TB bolted right up and installed easily. However, as others have mentioned, it was then necessary to have my mechanic use the BUDS system to reset the "0 degree throttle position". He charged me $20 to reset the throttle postion to "0", and presto the ski runs perfectley!

My Plan B attempt to have the original TB rebuilt by "BBA Reman" did not work out. I shipped them the TB and they told me it could not be rebuilt because the butterfly shaft was sticking. Of course this was the reason I told them it needed to be rebuilt in the first place, but they still led me to believe it was fixable and told me to ship it to them.