P-1676 code spare 1 output?

[seadooman55]

hello everyone i am new to the site and i am just getting used to navigating around. I figured I would start by posting a new trend. I have a gtx 4-tec 155hp and i am not getting spark. the code reads 1676 which says the "spare 1 output is shorted to 12v" what exactly does this mean? Is somthing damged? I can use all the help i can get because this is my first 4-stroke and i figred i'd go on the good side..seadoo!!

 

[Dennis]

Give us a little history on the ski. How are you retrieving this code? How are you determining there is no spark?

 

[seadooman55]

the history is very unknown i bought it not running for a great price(i think) because i thought it was something stupid. But, as i quickly found out something got fried MAJORLY!! the ignition coils are bent over from what looks to be cross arching to the block. I am getting the P-1676 code by starting the on-board diagnoses. Then i looked the code up and it says "spare 1 output shorted to 12v" and the probable cause is damaged wires, damaged component, or damaged MPEM out put pins. I am going to replace the coils and see what codes it may read but i have a feeling the MPEM unit is fried because i am getting no beeps or anything when the lanyard is attached. I think the owner jump started it with his car and over surged the system or something. He says it ran fine for him but thinks when he lended it to his buddy he did something to it and failed to tell him. I need all the help i can get i am ordering a service manual now to try and get a wiring schematic. but, any advice in the mean time would greatly be appreciated!!

 

[seadooman55]

ok i have found something out today just checking voltage and it seems that i have 12v to the coil and injector on cylinder #1 or pto side. The other 2 i have no power to ether the coil or the injector. I am also blowing the 2A fuse on the panel towards the rear 2nd one down under the 10A fuse. Both the cylinders that have no power had a shorted coil. What is going to be damaged when the coils short out?

 

[Dennis]

I'm not sure what you mean by "the coils got bent over'. Anyway, each cylinders coil and injector have a 10 amp fuse that powers them up when the key is installed. In otherwords there are 3 10 amp fuses for this. The ECM on top of the engine fires the injector or coil by grounding the other wire. If there is no 12 volts at the coils/injector then either the fuse is blown or wiring open or the MPEM next to the battery is bad.
The "spare 1" is a accessory circuit that is typically used for a depth finder. That circuit is protected by a 2 amp fuse in the MPEM. Look for an accessory like a depth finder, etc. and unplug it and see if the 2 amp blows then. If there are no accessories then look for a shorted harness somewhere. good luck

 

[seadooman55]

ok great! i will check that but the coils are shorted out but only 2 of them. Can the coils shorting out do damge to the MPEM unit? Because it looks like the coils where arching and grounding out to the cylinder head. I should up load a pic of the coils you wouldn't beilive what they look like there basically fried right where the coil is inline with the top of the valve cover. And if the MPEM unit is damged can it fire the working cylinder? i got it to pop on one cylinder. Thank you very much for your help im a newbie with these 4 strokes!

 

[Dennis]

Yea, pictures would be great. It's possible for a bad MPEM to supply current to 1 cyl. and not the others. Sounds to me like you got MPEM problems and possible ECU also.

 

[seadooman55]

ok i will check the 10A fuses and if it is not that i will talk to the dealer about maybe testing the ECU and the MPEM for me might be able to find a used one on ebay and have them program it. thanks for your help ill see if i can find what it is ..i hope:banghead:

 

[seadooman55]

ok so hear is what i found..both the 10A fuses where blown so i replaced them and now i have power to all coil plugs and injectors. When i crank the motor all the injectors fire like they should however on the rear cylinder seems to have spark i the other 2 cylinders have power to them but aren't firing when a good coil is hooked up. The coil is getting warm when it is plugged in aswell along with the 2A fuse still blowing. I am pretty much convinced that it is a bad MPEM unit at this point but i wanted your input on if you agree with me. thanks!

 

[Dennis]

The coils should NOT get warm. Your problem lies with the ECU that is top of the engine. It must be grounding the coil all the time (instead of a pulse) and that is why the coil gets hot and then melts. I say this assuming you don't have a pinched harness somewhere between the ECU and the coil/s. Keep in mind that your injectors may have also been grounded all the time and may also be damaged. The MPEM (next to the battery) may be OK. Seems like it is just doing its job of supplying voltage and circuit protection. Good Luck:banghead:

 

[seadooman55]

yes i think you have a point but the injectors are firing as they should i took the rail off put it up side down and cranked it and they fired 1 at a time starting from the rear cylinder (1,2,3,1,2,3) etc. Spray is mistified like it should be but is ECU responsable for only firing the coils or the injectors too? if the MPEM fires the injectors and the ECU fires coils that would make sence but i am still stumped at why the coils fried in the first place and it was only the front 2. What exactly does the ECU(box on top of the intake) do and the MPEM unit do? because they are connected together so do both work together to provide fuel and spark or just one? i am getting there slowly thank you very much for your patience.

 

[Dennis]

I put the "head banger" at the end of my post because that's probably how you feel .... hang in there.
The basic job of the MPEM is to supply voltage to the different components of the ski. The basic job of the ECU is to manage engine operation (sensor inputs, injectors, coils, etc.) The ECU fires the coils AND the injectors by pulsing their ground circuits. In your case, the coils are receiving a constant ground from a shorted ECU which is causing them to get hot. The ECU isn't totally shorted just partially shorted. That's why some components are still working correctly (injectors) and some not ( coils).
It would be a big help if you would get a service manual. It shows overviews of the different systems and how they relate to each other. Has wiring diagrams too.
In my opinion, you're at a point where you need to replace the ECU, necessary coils and then see what you've got. Make sure the harness isn't damaged somewhere first.
Keep in mind that the DESS key "reports" to the ECU and therefore will have to be programmed to the new ECU. Good Luck.

 

[seadooman55]

OK thaks aolt for your help i think that is what it is narrowed down to. I got 2 working used coils off ebay for it and i am going to order the service manual to see what i can find. And before i buy a ECU module i will have the dealer scan it with a B.U.D.S tool to see if that deffinatly is the problem. Would the shorted ECU cause that 2A spare 1 output fuse to blow?

 

[Dennis]

I'm not sure if the 2 amp fuse problem is related to the ECU or not. Very well could be. You could access and download any and all service manuals here in the forum if you become a premium member for about $11.00. It's money well spent. Good Luck.

 

[seadooman55]

I can see that, but my last question would be what do you think caused the coils to short out in the firsts place? They look like they where literally pulled out then shorted i just dont want to put a new ECU in it and have it fry because of a bad ground. Thanks!

 

[Dennis]

Jump starting skis' with a car that is running is a probable cause. That's a big no-no. The melted coils were the result of a shorted ECU, not the other way around.

 

[seadooman55]

ahh that is is exactly what happened the previous owner used to jump start it with his car or with one of those jumper packs. Lets hope it's that!

 

[seadooman55]

Is there a way of testing for a bad ECU? i pulled the box out tonight and put a ohm meter on it. I just test to see what conections where where and i found nothig in "B" but when i did the same for "A" i had a couple pins making the beeper go off with around .01 and .02 ohms on 19a 20a 21a 22a 23a 25a 26a 27a 28a and 39a. The rest where fine i don't know what this means but i figured while im waiting for the manual to be shipped i would take a shot at it..any ideas? thanks!