Oil in crank case

Rbiton123

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Water Crafts
1998 seadoo SPX 787
#1
Hi,

First time ski owner but I’ve had toys for as long as I can remember.

I recently came across a 1998 seadoo SPX that needed some work.

First thing I did was remove the carbs for a cleaning.

Upon removal I noticed there was oil coming out of my crank, now logically speaking I would assume that this was engine oil to keep things libricated but I was told that these engines run on a closed cooling system and I would not need to do an oil change periodically.

Does anyone have any idea what this oil may be, should I remove it, should I change it?

Help!
 

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snikwad003

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Water Crafts
'97 Challenger 1800
‘98 SPX
‘97 XP
2 '04 honda r12x salty and corroded
#2
That is yer inner crank seals leaking. The oil line below the 2 intake ports in the middle is a loop from the bottom of the oil tank, through the rotary valve gear cavity, to the top of the tank. Oil is gravity fed in there and lubes those gears. Once a year I hook a hand pump to the top hose on the tank and pull some through to keep it fresh, not a requirement but mine was fed the wrong tcw-3 oil in it's previous life. You will need to remove it or it will give you symptoms of a locked up motor but it is as simple as removing the spark plugs and spinning the motor over till it blows it all out, it's messy but you can cover the motor with a towel and keep it off your ceiling. So you can use a hose pincher when the ski is not in use, install a valve to cut the oil off when you're not using it, or rebuild the motor. It could run like that for years as long as it doesn't leak too fast. If you do a hose pincher or valve and forget about it it will be a bad day for your RV parts. It is a open loop cooling system on the 2 strokes, the 4tecs have heat exchangers. Looks like you have some gray tempo fuel lines there, they produce some green goo that will clog your carbs bringing that rebuild to the very near future.
 

Rbiton123

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Water Crafts
1998 seadoo SPX 787
#3
Hey thanks for the quick reply!

Now my second question is, should I be adding oil to compensate for what has leaked through? If so where and what kind of oil.

Another question is do you think it’s a must to replace the crank seals?

The top end was rebuilt 2 years ago right before it was put away and sat in a garage, along with the fuel lines so I don’t think there is any goo... yet but I def need to dig some more.
 

snikwad003

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Water Crafts
'97 Challenger 1800
‘98 SPX
‘97 XP
2 '04 honda r12x salty and corroded
#5
It is full synthetic API-tc rated oil. The Sea-Doo XPS oil is one of them but there are others, oil for outboards is not it. After a second look at your photo I see it has been converted to premix, do you still have the oil tank if so it goes there, if not you fill up the lines that should be looped together, but that seems like enough oil to still have a tank
 

snikwad003

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Location
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Water Crafts
'97 Challenger 1800
‘98 SPX
‘97 XP
2 '04 honda r12x salty and corroded
#6
You can find how to put it back to oil injection in a few places here. The Sea-Doo oil injection is reliable, the small oil lines that run from the pump to those brass fittings under the carbs (yours are capped off with black caps) are usually the reason for a oil related blow up
 

Rbiton123

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1998 seadoo SPX 787
#7
Yes the oil tank is still there and it’s pretty full of oil. Could it possibly be because the ski sat for 2 years? Basically just turn the engine over until that oil inside clears oil and let the tank do it’s job?
 

snikwad003

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Location
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Water Crafts
'97 Challenger 1800
‘98 SPX
‘97 XP
2 '04 honda r12x salty and corroded
#8
Leaking seals sitting for that long will deff fill it up but some people's fills up in a week or less. If you have a pump you can suck it out or blow it out the plugs, once it fires up and gets running it will burn out the excess, just keep an eye on the tank level, and if you come to a locked up motor pull the plugs and turn it over by hand and I'll bet you find oil in the cylinders.
 

Rbiton123

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1998 seadoo SPX 787
#9
So the motor is locked and I’m unable to turn it over by hand even with the plugs pulled out. What do you suggest I do next?
 

mikidymac

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1996 XP
2001 XP
1996 HX
2x 1997 GSX
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#10
Try pulling the pump as it could be locked up. Next would be a stuck starter and finally a trash crank and/or rotary valve. Start with the pump first then the starter and go from there if it is still locked.
 

snikwad003

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Water Crafts
'97 Challenger 1800
‘98 SPX
‘97 XP
2 '04 honda r12x salty and corroded
#12
Keep us posted. 98 is a good year, few lbs lighter
 

Rbiton123

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1998 seadoo SPX 787
#13
first is like to say I’m glad to join the seadoo family lol

After some trail and error with trying to turn the driveshaft by hand I decided to open up the head and see what’s going on with the pistons.

To my surprise (not really) I discovered that the pistons were locked due to salt and corrosion.

I’ve decided to rebuild the engine. I have experience with rebuilding top ends, the only issue I might encounter is the crank.

Does anyone have pictures or a walkthrough for the bottom end?

Also need the cheapest place to buy top end kits, rebuild kits etc.

Thanks bros
 

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mikidymac

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#14
Cheapest is full long block from SBT. Best is rebuilding yourself with all oem parts.
 

Rbiton123

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Water Crafts
1998 seadoo SPX 787
#15
So after a few hours and a ton of rust, salt and sand I managed to get the engine apart. Need some opinions, how are my crank case and crank shaft looking? Aside from lubing it up are there any defects you guys can see?

I also need a new top end plus the jugs but
I’m able to buy a built running engine for about $1000

Is it worth buying a new engine or just getting a top end kit?

Help!
 

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mikidymac

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1996 XP
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1996 HX
2x 1997 GSX
01' Superjet
#16
Cases look fine. Crank is junk, rotary shaft is toasty and balancer will have to be rebuilt. Your fastest and easiest is a reman from SBT.
 

Rbiton123

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#17
Thanks a lot man! Another question unrelated to this, I just picked up a 98 seadoo XP LTD, looks excellent and I can turn the motor by hand but it only turns once and then seems to get stuck, any idea what this could be?
 

mikidymac

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#18
Pull the pump first. THe 951 is a beast but has some pretty big inherent weaknesses.
 

Rbiton123

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1998 seadoo SPX 787
#19
More power = more potential problems haha, what weaknesses are you referring to just so I’m ready for what I come across
 

mikidymac

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#20
A 951 will only live on full synthetic API-TC oil. You have to fog the engine after every ride as they don't tolerate any moisture or water ingestion. Super clean fuel system as they will not taking any running lean. They also have the shortest crank life of the seadoo's even when taken care of. But if take care of they are great.
 

mikidymac

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#22
Absolutely not. With the cold water and power valves it’s a bad idea. Stick with APT-TC full synthetic and nothing else.
 
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Location
Virginia Sea Level
Water Crafts
2001 Sportster LE 951 Carbed
#24
I do it the other way around, the Seadoo TCI-AP two-stroke full synthetic works great in all my air-cooled 2-stroke toys, including chain saws.

The key with the 951 is it needs good synthetic (air-cooled 2-stroke type API-TC) oil and the Seadoo 2-stroke full synthetic works.

Let me add, it's my opinion the 951 shouldn't be run at full tilt except for short bursts, it's one of those high tempered engines so I take it ease on mine. Normal cruise in my boat is ~ 5200RPM

Make sure to keep oil in the balance shaft gear cavity, I check mine every year and have added twice, 1st time when I got it it was very low.
 

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