Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.

cam2rich

Active Member
Hello,
I was just given a 96 GSX with a seized motor and a rear electrical box full of water. I freed the motor and checked compression (shockingly it had 162 165), replaced the starter solenoid as the post was corroded, the two smaller ring terminals that go the the battery cable post, and the battery cable lug. I have tried pressing the start button 5 times, I get nothing. The starter button does work. The MPEM is getting 12V and the front e-box has a good ground. All fuses are good. I tried replacing the MPEM with the Arieltec model and there were no changes (I did notice there are differences vs the stock unit, mainly wire locations and it is missing the white wire to the DESS). I've cleaned the DESS post and key. I've also been just pulling plugs and checking for continuity between wires and I haven't found any issues. I can also just the starter solenoid to turn crank the motor.
Any input or advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Cameron
 
Hello,
I was just given a 96 GSX with a seized motor and a rear electrical box full of water. I freed the motor and checked compression (shockingly it had 162 165), replaced the starter solenoid as the post was corroded, the two smaller ring terminals that go the the battery cable post, and the battery cable lug. I have tried pressing the start button 5 times, I get nothing. The starter button does work. The MPEM is getting 12V and the front e-box has a good ground. All fuses are good. I tried replacing the MPEM with the Arieltec model and there were no changes (I did notice there are differences vs the stock unit, mainly wire locations and it is missing the white wire to the DESS). I've cleaned the DESS post and key. I've also been just pulling plugs and checking for continuity between wires and I haven't found any issues. I can also just the starter solenoid to turn crank the motor.
Any input or advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Cameron

You can do a continuity test on the start/stop button, if it's bad get a new one, search ebay. You need a good beeper, you can test it by jumping 12 volts directly to it. Check the ground or the plug that goes to the mag housing, if that's not good completing the ground loop back to the batt neg the ski won't do anything. Check that the little ground at the rear e box is on the batt neg. Run down all the connections, male/female plugs and grounds, if it sat awhile in the elements, corrosion can effect the electrical connections.
 
beeper and start button both work. I've checked the continuity from the small black ground. I know the mag plug is connected but I have not yet checked the leads to it.
 
beeper and start button both work. I've checked the continuity from the small black ground. I know the mag plug is connected but I have not yet checked the leads to it.

The plug at the mag housing makes a series of jumps, it goes directly to the stator inside, which is bolted in the case with 3 bolts, then that part of the housing is bolted to the other housing half and so on. Could be corrosion at one of these connection points blocking the ground loop back to batt neg. With the meter touch the ground on that plug and a ground point on the motor and see if has continuity.
 
Regarding the missing white wire, that is the pickup pulse that goes to your ignition in the rear box,,,that also kills the motor in the start/stop/dess post,,,make sure you do have continuity to that coil,,,did we ask,,,do you have spark?
 
Regarding the missing white wire, that is the pickup pulse that goes to your ignition in the rear box,,,that also kills the motor in the start/stop/dess post,,,make sure you do have continuity to that coil,,,did we ask,,,do you have spark?
That is great information. The wiring diagrams are good resources but that kind of info is priceless. Thanks for sharing.
 
For racing my 800 XP LTD,,,,,I had/have the dess post connecting the ignition pulse only, and the start stop botton, was to start only, operating the starter,,,I could turn the motor over without spark,,,of course it has no frills, no gauges, no vts, no mpem, but an msd ignition to control the timing curve and spark,,,and a "tiny tach"for rpms, absolute neccessity when you are trying to gain every 70 rpm (1 mph), out of the motor to get the all important "hole shot" on the starting line.
 
All, I unplugged the mag connector and checked the continuity from ground on the male end of the connector to the battery and from the female end of the plug to the block and both checked out. Should I be getting spark while just jumping the solenoid? I wouldn't think so as the ECU is still showing no signs of getting power (outside of the fact that it does get 12V). Also, the white wire I was referring to when I said the new ECU was missing one is the white/gray one to the main module. I did however check continuity of the white wire from the ebox to the ign coil and it was good.
 
Should I be getting spark while just jumping the solenoid?
No, you won't, you're correct the MPEM needs to be active. If you're still having issues and can't get it to wake up and activate the gauges, etc download the service manual SeaDoo Manuals - FREE PDF Download! and start tracing connections, grounds, plugs and so forth. Clean with electrical spray and dielectric grease. Double check and make sure everything is connected the way it's supposed to be. It's a connection issue somewhere.
 
I cannot seem to find any issues still. Can anyone tell me when the CDI box should get 12V? The relay assy that connects 12V to the CDI box does not ever shut but there is no power anywhere else anywhere else so im not too sure if that is how it should be
 
I had a couple of electronics whiz guys tell me the holder relay was in there simply to prevent the battery from draining. I find that when I install the key, the holder relay pulls in. When you hit the start button it will click again... and the engine will turn over. That might be the holder relay letting go... I'm not sure. I can't help you with the when. I'd check power to the wires going to the rear of the ski. I had an issue with that and replaced them MPEM which solved my problem. I had a spare. Spares are good. Good Luck!!
 
That was kind of my assumption. I'm tempted to bypass the relay as I have never heard the contact close.
I tried replacing the MPEM with an arieltech unit and it did not solve my issue.
 
Update: I ran a fused power line straight from the ebox 12v in to the cdi module and still no luck (I jumped the relay pictured above)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top