New to me 95 XP pre driving checklist

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burtshaver2021

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Hi, I just bought a 95 XP. The previous owner had said the top end was blown. It starts right up instantly when you press the start button. He did say also that it sputters at higher rpms which I think may have made him think the top end was blown unless someone else told him this. Anyways I have it home and did a compression test with the engine cold and gas turned off. Readings were 135 and 140 which I think is pretty good for being cold, expect maybe 5 more pounds when hot. It had these transparent green fuel lines on with zip ties and I noticed an air bubble in one of the lines going from the mag side carb to the other carb ( I think anyways). That can’t be good? I don’t want to just take the ski out on the water and risk possibly damaging anything so I’m thinking I will check the micro filters in both carbs, check the o ring in the fuel/water separator, take the oil out of the reservoir and fill with XPS oil, use my Mitty vac to pressurize the fuel system and look for leaks with soapy water, check and clean the spark arrestor. Is there anything else I should be doing before I take it out on the water? Had anyone ever seen these clear/green fuel lines before? Should I change them out for good 1/4” black fuel lines? Is it ok to attach the fuel lines with zip ties? I read a thread once that said to use gear clamps on the fuel lines, I’m sure other types of clamps would work to it better. And I was also wondering if anyone has any suggestions for getting the black spots off of the handle bar pad? Thanks for any suggestions
 

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General recommendations on fuel lines are black automotive type or the Tygon style (usually a clear blue) but there are all kinds of colors that are available. If you are not getting leaks they may be fine. As far as clamps, I prefer gear clamps or spring clamps for fuel lines (spring clamps usually only work on automotive style since it has a thicker wall.) For the handle bar pad I have had really good results with soft scrub with bleach and a grey scrub pad. Use plenty of water with it, and it usually work best to get a wet “slurry” on there and let it sit for 10 minutes. Works great on seat vinyl as well. You don’t have to scrub very hard, just keep at it for about 10-15 minutes. With the bleach content I always rinse and dry it well and then put a couple coats of 303 protectant on it. I have tried a bunch of others, and this seems to be the best combination and is relatively easy to get.
 
Thanks BBird, I will give the soft scrub with bleach a try. I’m pretty busy with work and preparations for winter now so it will probably wait now till the snow is flying but I will let you know how it works out.
 
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