New 96 XP Owner

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Finally bought a 96 XP
#1
Hello SeaDoo Forum. I finally bought a 96 XP (woo hoo) and I am about to embark on the path that so many others have taken before me (rebuilding the carbs and entire fuel system etc.). This seems pretty straight forward. I was also going to look at the fuel valve and possibly replace it if needed. I see that there is a screen below the baffle in the fuel tank, is that a concern? I also see check valves and pressure relief valves, are these also a concern? The oil injection evidently works on this ski, but is the consensus to forget about it and just run pre-mix? If so, I believe there is some type of block-off kit to accomplish this? If so where can I get one and do they come with instructions? Lastly what is the ratio of Gas to Oil if I do run pre-mix? 50:1? Thanks for your help
 


GGuillot

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1996 GSX
#2
Personally I'd leave the stock oil injection alone, it works pretty good. I'd just replace the lines and check adjustment and function. On the carbs, you probably already know, OEM only. Just a preference, I run a 60:1 premix with the stock injection. But I run wiseco pistons, provides a good seal in the cylinder, good for long idling, and doesn't smoke. Just more $$ to spend on oil though.

New fuel selector is a good idea, so is replacing all the fuel lines, the vent check valves in the system are likely fine, blow out with brake cleaner and compressed air as they tend to stick.

I went a step further on my resto, I replaced all lines on the ski, fuel, oil, and water with clear lines, helps when troubleshooting.
 
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Matt Braley

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I can't keep up with it anymore. I've got some really cool skis!!
#3
Welcome to the forum and congrats on that X4. Be sure to check out Mikidymac's carb thread. It's step by step so you can nail it the first time.
 

etemplet

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#4
Yes congrats on the X4. Took me a while to figure out what that was and what was so special about them. :) I have a 96XP also but have really not ridden it more than 10 minutes. Doing some cosmetic work now and should have it ready for the springtime. I don't think it is the consensus to eliminate the oil pumps on the two stroke skis. If it is working, no reason to change it over. It's all about personal preference. Take your time and enjoy the yourself and also.... Welcome. :)
 

Paul Bretz

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hx 800
#5
Im a pre mix guy. Seen several oil pump failures and not a single pre mix failure. Ha. But then again im used to pre mixing other things too. 3 and 4 wheelers, dirt bike, chain saw, weed trimmer, hedge trimmer, etc. all get same oil and mixture. Makes it easy. If u do go pre mix, use a quality oil like amsoil interceptor. 5 gallons of gas to 16oz of oil. Plus i like it on my seadoo’s because throttle is so much easier to operate. Less finger fatigue. Ha. The cheap block off kits work just fine. Keep oil tank and leave big oil lines hooked to tank and engine. Leave a little oil in tank. Block off smaller injector oil line at tank
 

GGuillot

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1996 GSX
#8
Im a pre mix guy. Seen several oil pump failures and not a single pre mix failure. Ha. But then again im used to pre mixing other things too. 3 and 4 wheelers, dirt bike, chain saw, weed trimmer, hedge trimmer, etc. all get same oil and mixture. Makes it easy. If u do go pre mix, use a quality oil like amsoil interceptor. 5 gallons of gas to 16oz of oil. Plus i like it on my seadoo’s because throttle is so much easier to operate. Less finger fatigue. Ha. The cheap block off kits work just fine. Keep oil tank and leave big oil lines hooked to tank and engine. Leave a little oil in tank. Block off smaller injector oil line at tank
To premix or not seems to be an endless debate. These several oil pump failures you've seen, what specifically failed? The pumps failed? how? they quit pumping?
 

Paul Bretz

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#9
It is an endless debate. Same as the what type of oil to use. Ive used interceptor for 15 plus years and never had an engine failure. Ive seen where the pumps quit pumping oil. Spin them with a drill and nothing comes out
 

mikidymac

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#11
I know we all see different things from differents skis and while i have seen a failure on a kawasaki pump in over 25 years of working on these I have never seen a failure of a seadoo pump and you are one of the first I have heard of that has seen and/or tested multiple pumps bad.

Not saying it can't or doesn't happen just saying even here on the forum it isn't common at all.

What is it that you are seeing and testing on these pumps that is bad?
 

Paul Bretz

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#12
I find that their not pumping oil. Submerge supply hose into bucket of oil, spin pump with a drill and no oil coming out of feeder nipples
 

mikidymac

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#13
I can't say for sure but I know they have to be below the oil tank so maybe they can't pull suction from a bucket. They might not be able to self prime that way, just a guess.
 

Paul Bretz

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#14
Sorry you are right but i did mimic a couple also hooked to oil tank and had pump near bottom of hull and tried. Sorry i forgot to put that
 

mikidymac

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#17
Unless the engine was seized and looked like it was from oil starvation I don't bother bench testing them.

1. Clean the oil tank and drain all lines.
2. Replace the oil filter.
3. Replace the small 3/32" tygon oil lines from the pump to the intake manifold.
4. Refill the tank with Seadoo XPS E-TEC 2T, Amsoil Interceptor, or Mystic full synthetic API-TC. No other oil is safe.
5. Open the bleed screw on the pump until new clean oil comes out. Gently tighten the bleed screw.
6. Adjust the oil pump cable to align the mark on the arm with the mark on the body.
7. Hold the pump lever wide open and start the ski letting it idle. You will quickly see the oil pulsing into the new 3/32" oil lines.

Once the oil reaches the intake manifold nipples you are done and can enjoy your oil injection for another 20 years.
 

Paul Bretz

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#18
I've read where you have to hold the throttle cable wide open to test these pumps?
Yes it is a variable rate system. The further you hold them open, the more they should pump. If you decide to keep oil injection, follow what mikidy has said. My personal preference is to not trust a very important part that has exceeded its original design intent for time. Like i said, just my opinion.
 

riffe723

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#19
I can't say for sure but I know they have to be below the oil tank so maybe they can't pull suction from a bucket. They might not be able to self prime that way, just a guess.
Not to mention spinning with your hand vs. the speed of the revolution when attached to the motor is much different. I don't think and hand spinning test is an accurate measurement. I'm with miki on this. Seadoo oil pumps, from my experience, have been great.
 

mikidymac

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#21
I think the answer is use what you are most comfortable with and let’s you enjoy your time with the skis and family instead of worrying.

Keep in mind even at idle the oil pump is spinning at 3,000 rpm which is much faster than a drill and the actual volume of oil is very small even with the lever wide open so the most you can expect is a few drops at a time.
 

mikidymac

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#23
Yes. To clarify these idle at 3000 out of the water with no load and 1500 in the water with the load on the pump. I only bleed my oil pumps out of the water.
 
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IDoSeaDoo

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#25
As others have said, the oil pumps are pretty reliable. I've verified the output of some of mine using a drill with a known RPM max, and even after 20yrs, they still output to spec. There's a guide in the repair manuals on how to test them. The only bad thing about using the injection system is forgetting to check it. Sometimes, the low-oil indicators break and you run them right out of oil. Or, you can find yourself far away from your launch area when the indicator comes on. Makes for a stressful return trip. I've never run out of oil if the indicator comes on and I return right away. It's when it comes on and I'm camping or something that it becomes a real problem. The marinas only carry the Quicksilver 2-stroke oil (if any) and it's debatable if that's a good enough product to use in our high output engines.
 

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