New 96 gsx, tips are welcome

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Cheflen

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Just picked up a new 96 gsx after restoring my 95 sp. I’ve always wanted a gsx so I finally got one. Can anyone tell me everything there is to know about the 96 gsx? I have worked with rotary valves but not the rave valves so I’m not sure what’s new there. The fuel lines are gray so I have to replace those and get a mikuni carb kit along with a fuel selector and filter. The vts doesn’t work, anybody know how I should approach that? And the lcd gauge looks like it has sun damage and is very hard to read.414AB58A-50F1-4946-8958-5B87DC58B779.jpeg57D14422-7C5D-4A15-8B1F-10721A8637CC.jpegCCC30D4B-A98C-466C-BC7A-A47915D0CDC6.jpeg
 
You can buy the replacement led film on eBay for the gauge. I removed my old one with a razor blade and a little alcohol. You have to snip the metal band on top of the gauge to open it up.
 
I picked up a 96' GSX earlier this Summer, I'm doing a straight up full RESTO on it like I did on the GTX. Pointers? As noted above, I also did the LCD fix with the film/instructions purchased off ebay. Just take the gauge apart and patiently scrap the burned film away. Since you can't reuse the metal band, I put an large oring around the gauge to clean the look up, regardless, it looks fine once you slip it back in the rubber install. Little tricky to remove the gauge on the 96' GSX, just carefully press down and slide the gauge deflector forward then fish the lines and slip info gauge out towards you.

Other unique things about the 96' GSX, you can't take the hood apart, only year it's like that. But the good thing is the oil tank is one piece, so no leaks to worry about. Also, if you still have that 1 1/4" piece of rear trim insert consider yourself lucky, if it gets lost, which is common on these for some reason, it'll cost you dearly to replace, if you can even find it. Ditto on the rear corners, all unique to the 96' model GSX. I'm looking at a way to run some small screws on the underside to keep this rear trim piece secure. I'm not buying this piece again after months of searching and paying more than I should have.

No speedometer on the 96', but you can add that and connect it to the info gauge. Connections for the ambient temp and compass are there, reasonable to acquire these sensors off ebay.

If your fuel gauge isn't working, little tricky removing the fuel pickup, just run the tank low, remove the steering (4 bolts) and then lift the tank at an angle to get the pickup out.

I haven't checked my VTS out yet since I've got the ski down to a bare hull at the moment, but vendors online sell replacement boots, motors and pieces you need. I'd just clean the RAVEs, and check them every 10 hours or so.

Love this ski, the 96', can't wait to get it on the water next year.
 
I picked up a 96' GSX earlier this Summer, I'm doing a straight up full RESTO on it like I did on the GTX. Pointers? As noted above, I also did the LCD fix with the film/instructions purchased off ebay. Just take the gauge apart and patiently scrap the burned film away. Since you can't reuse the metal band, I put an large oring around the gauge to clean the look up, regardless, it looks fine once you slip it back in the rubber install. Little tricky to remove the gauge on the 96' GSX, just carefully press down and slide the gauge deflector forward then fish the lines and slip info gauge out towards you.

Other unique things about the 96' GSX, you can't take the hood apart, only year it's like that. But the good thing is the oil tank is one piece, so no leaks to worry about. Also, if you still have that 1 1/4" piece of rear trim insert consider yourself lucky, if it gets lost, which is common on these for some reason, it'll cost you dearly to replace, if you can even find it. Ditto on the rear corners, all unique to the 96' model GSX. I'm looking at a way to run some small screws on the underside to keep this rear trim piece secure. I'm not buying this piece again after months of searching and paying more than I should have.

No speedometer on the 96', but you can add that and connect it to the info gauge. Connections for the ambient temp and compass are there, reasonable to acquire these sensors off ebay.

If your fuel gauge isn't working, little tricky removing the fuel pickup, just run the tank low, remove the steering (4 bolts) and then lift the tank at an angle to get the pickup out.

I haven't checked my VTS out yet since I've got the ski down to a bare hull at the moment, but vendors online sell replacement boots, motors and pieces you need. I'd just clean the RAVEs, and check them every 10 hours or so.

Love this ski, the 96', can't wait to get it on the water next year.
How do I remove the raves? And what do you use to clean them with? Any way to make sure they are properly re-installed? Thanks for the help everyone I appreciate it
 
Remove the caps, tops and the 4 Allan bolts and the raves and housing come off. Clean with brake cleaner and a razor blade. Install new gaskets and o-rings. IF your bollows on them are leaking I would only suggest replacing them with new OEM ones for $20 each.
 
Remove the caps, tops and the 4 Allan bolts and the raves and housing come off. Clean with brake cleaner and a razor blade. Install new gaskets and o-rings. IF your bollows on them are leaking I would only suggest replacing them with new OEM ones for $20 each.
How do you know if they are leaking? Does the engine compartment get a slight amount of smoke in it?
 
No will see black spooge leaking from them.

On a new to you ski they should be inspected and cleaned. Also if they were not using API-TC full synthetic oil they will be a mess too.
 
No will see black spooge leaking from them.

On a new to you ski they should be inspected and cleaned. Also if they were not using API-TC full synthetic oil they will be a mess too.
Ok last time I checked I think I did see that. Where should I order from to get those?
 
I order all of my OEM parts from Pro Caliber out of Washington but also check with PWC Muscle as a forum supporter because they said they can match pricing.
 
Here’s the rave valves and the housing. One is good but one is definitely shot. I can’t seem to find the 20$ housings anywhere would someone be able to send the link please?9B07E97E-8370-490F-AFC2-6A7B4F617F22.jpegBFB5B2B5-EC3C-4EDD-96A6-7B5893DEC8B6.jpeg
 
I actually found out that the housing was good, the rubber piece just slid off the plastic cover. It cleaned up nice and had no cuts in it so I assembled it properly and it doesn’t smoke when it first started near the rave valve.
 
3BD81C25-EF12-48D5-9FB1-838665D51277.jpegVts motor is shot but I’m so happy to hear the module bringing power to it so I tried taking it out and cleaning it up but that didn’t work. Ordered a new motor and rubber boot.
 
Good luck with the VTS in my experience it’s the module as much as the motors but maybe I’m just not lucky.

The bellow is $20.24 at Pro Caliber.
 
Good luck with the VTS in my experience it’s the module as much as the motors but maybe I’m just not lucky.

The bellow is $20.24 at Pro Caliber.
Well I heard power from the module so I hope the module is good? I took the motor out and it was welded stuck so I really hope it’s just the motor
 
Another thing, does anybody know where the beeper is located? I forgot that also isn’t working on this.
 
The beeper is in the pad around the handle bars. Open your hood and look at the front, flat, surface of the bar cover.
 
Another thing, does anybody know where the beeper is located? I forgot that also isn’t working on this.

The beeper, the one thing I found that does work on my recently acquired 96' GSX. Located in the column, double check it by putting 12V directly to it to confirm it's bad.
 
The beeper, the one thing I found that does work on my recently acquired 96' GSX. Located in the column, double check it by putting 12V directly to it to confirm it's bad.
What could it be if the actual beeper is good then? Just a cut wire somewhere?
 
The MPEM (computer) sends the pulse to the beeper. I have also seen ones that will beep with 12V applied to them but they still will not beep with the short small pulse that the MPEM sends out.
 
I just purchased a new start button rubber piece (just the rubber piece) has anybody installed that before? Is there any tricks to getting the rubber off and installing the new piece?
 
I just purchased a new start button rubber piece (just the rubber piece) has anybody installed that before? Is there any tricks to getting the rubber off and installing the new piece?

It's pretty easy to accomplish, just remove the small screw that holds the plastic piece pressed against the wired button. Once you slide out and remove the wired button, just carefully pick the remains of the old rubber cover out. Then once cleaned up, from the top, work the new one in, then reverse and slide the wired button back in place and so forth. VTS rubber part is pretty easy if you need to change that also.
 
All of the ones I have done I just pull the old one off and make sure the groove is clean and clear then just work the new one in. I haven't ever had to remove the actual switch or housing.
 
One thing I noticed once I fixed this rave valve housing was that it seemed to start up and rev better on the trailer. I haven’t taken it out yet, but would this cause a loss in power? Now that it’s fixed would I feel more power?936954FD-D126-4B70-93CE-246E2A7BA201.jpeg
 
The power will be much smoother and the powerband will be where it should. So, yes it will run better.
 
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