jahman182
Member
Well my 2001 XP finally arrived home after a long wait to clear state required checks before the tow yard would release the ski and paper work I would need to apply for tag and title. Having received the paper work it took me all of 15mins at a tag agency to do the transfer, registration and apply for a title at a cost of $74.00. Next year it will cost me $10.50 for the renewal. Not bad for starters considering I got the ski for $0.00 from the tow yard. I’m going to try to keep a running tally on my expenditure to see what this restoration will ultimately cost me.
Let me start off by first saying thanks to all the knowledgeable members here on this forum. I have been doing a lot of reading throughout the restoration and 2-stroke categories which should prepare me to undertake this XP project. This forum is truly a great resource and has provided me with tons of useful information.
So after giving the XP a nice rinse and some cleaning to get rid of the dirt and garbage that had accumulated on the ski. I came up with a list of things I have identified that will need to be addressed but this I am sure will change as I dig even deeper.
Parts List:
On/Off start button cover
Fuel Cap
2 x Battery cable ends
NGK BR8ES Plugs + spares
Spark plug cables
Seat – need replacement
DESS Key lanyard + programming - Minnetonka4me
Drain Plugs (Hull) x 2
Fuel lines – complete replacement
Wear ring – verify/change
Inline fuel filter
Sealed battery
Maintenance:
Replace the two (2) broken bolts on pump venturi
Fuel Tank to be cleaned
Replace the drive shaft carbon seal (Had a dream the ski sank with me):facepalm:
Inspect oil system
Inspect fuel system
Inspect electrical system
Check and replace VTS boot and clamps
Oil premix setup
My Observations
Pros:
Hull – appears to be in great shape
Impeller – very good condition
Jet pump housing in great condition
Sponsons are in great condition
Cons:
No key
Seat in deplorable condition
Battery terminal cable ends were cut off
Steering seems to be frozen in place
Oil pump disconnected/bypassed
Oil tank missing
Fuel valve bypassed
Some grey hoses still installed
Fuel tank cap missing
Seat beyond repair
2 x Broken bolts on venturi assembly
Cosmetics:
Sand/Buff and polish Hull
Yellow on black Hydro Turf (grooved) traction mats
Black anodized handlebars
Jet trim seat cover
As to the condition of the motor I will have to wait till I acquire a programmed key from Minnetonka4me at which time I will put a battery into the ski to check the compression and attempt the start up of the motor. I’m unable to turn it over by hand and this may be because I’m doing it wrong or it is a result of rust accumulation in the cylinder bores from sitting so long. If the compression falls below the minimum required for normal operation I will refresh the motor. I plan to run this motor on pre-mix instead of re-introducing the complexities of the oil-metering pump for cylinder bore lubrication.
I have also been entertaining the idea of utilizing a modified fuel system instead of restoring the stock crank case pressure dependent fuel system. I came to this conclusion after browsing the shop manual for the 2001 SeaDoo XP and realized the system operates without a fuel pump and the horror stories I have read about the seadoo 951 and the frequent lean condition resulting in blown motors, I would rather be safe than sorry. This sure does remind me of my rotaries of days gone by.
The plan is to install a self-priming, self-regulating 12v fuel pump with a 4-7psi range and add a 100 micron clear inline fuel filter before and after the carbs. This should take care of the motors fueling needs with enough headroom. The mods I plan to run follow the same rule of thought applied to RX7’s from my days of building rotary motors i.e. being very meticulous with the lubrication and fueling requirements.
I'll be posting some photos as soon as I have sorted them and will continue adding new ones as progress is made on my XP resto project. Outside of the things I have mentioned; is there anything specific I should look out for when working on this 2001 XP? Please feel free to chime in.
Let me start off by first saying thanks to all the knowledgeable members here on this forum. I have been doing a lot of reading throughout the restoration and 2-stroke categories which should prepare me to undertake this XP project. This forum is truly a great resource and has provided me with tons of useful information.
So after giving the XP a nice rinse and some cleaning to get rid of the dirt and garbage that had accumulated on the ski. I came up with a list of things I have identified that will need to be addressed but this I am sure will change as I dig even deeper.
Parts List:
On/Off start button cover
Fuel Cap
2 x Battery cable ends
NGK BR8ES Plugs + spares
Spark plug cables
Seat – need replacement
DESS Key lanyard + programming - Minnetonka4me
Drain Plugs (Hull) x 2
Fuel lines – complete replacement
Wear ring – verify/change
Inline fuel filter
Sealed battery
Maintenance:
Replace the two (2) broken bolts on pump venturi
Fuel Tank to be cleaned
Replace the drive shaft carbon seal (Had a dream the ski sank with me):facepalm:
Inspect oil system
Inspect fuel system
Inspect electrical system
Check and replace VTS boot and clamps
Oil premix setup
My Observations
Pros:
Hull – appears to be in great shape
Impeller – very good condition
Jet pump housing in great condition
Sponsons are in great condition
Cons:
No key
Seat in deplorable condition
Battery terminal cable ends were cut off
Steering seems to be frozen in place
Oil pump disconnected/bypassed
Oil tank missing
Fuel valve bypassed
Some grey hoses still installed
Fuel tank cap missing
Seat beyond repair
2 x Broken bolts on venturi assembly
Cosmetics:
Sand/Buff and polish Hull
Yellow on black Hydro Turf (grooved) traction mats
Black anodized handlebars
Jet trim seat cover
As to the condition of the motor I will have to wait till I acquire a programmed key from Minnetonka4me at which time I will put a battery into the ski to check the compression and attempt the start up of the motor. I’m unable to turn it over by hand and this may be because I’m doing it wrong or it is a result of rust accumulation in the cylinder bores from sitting so long. If the compression falls below the minimum required for normal operation I will refresh the motor. I plan to run this motor on pre-mix instead of re-introducing the complexities of the oil-metering pump for cylinder bore lubrication.
I have also been entertaining the idea of utilizing a modified fuel system instead of restoring the stock crank case pressure dependent fuel system. I came to this conclusion after browsing the shop manual for the 2001 SeaDoo XP and realized the system operates without a fuel pump and the horror stories I have read about the seadoo 951 and the frequent lean condition resulting in blown motors, I would rather be safe than sorry. This sure does remind me of my rotaries of days gone by.
The plan is to install a self-priming, self-regulating 12v fuel pump with a 4-7psi range and add a 100 micron clear inline fuel filter before and after the carbs. This should take care of the motors fueling needs with enough headroom. The mods I plan to run follow the same rule of thought applied to RX7’s from my days of building rotary motors i.e. being very meticulous with the lubrication and fueling requirements.
I'll be posting some photos as soon as I have sorted them and will continue adding new ones as progress is made on my XP resto project. Outside of the things I have mentioned; is there anything specific I should look out for when working on this 2001 XP? Please feel free to chime in.
