little help with froze engine

[lovetoride]

I didn't use my ski for a while, yesterday i went to start it and it made a click sound like the battery is low. so i get a new battery and same thing.. i tired to turn the engine over by hand but can't get a good grip on anything to try and break it free. I pulled the cylinder heads and the cylinder walls have mild corrosion, with a little oil and a rag comes off. where can i get a good grip and what else could stop the engine from turning over? any help would be greatly appreciated. Also on a side note i am (or thought) very meticulous when it comes to maintenance, the ski is not neglected.

 

[seadooya]

pour some ATF into cylinders or PB-Blater, and let sit for a day or 2. Then try turning the pto again, or use a pipe-wrench. The rings are froze/rusted, to side of sleeves.

 

[lovetoride]

still having trouble

It is werid i cant get a pipe wrench to stick to the output/impellor shaft, i was thinking of pulling the whole pump shaft and the white round thing that screws to the engine. Then put two nuts on the engine crank and screw the nuts togather to get a good grip on it. Is there a better way. Also I've been butting tons of PB in the cylinders and swerling it around and it all dissippears, where does it go/ do i have to drain it out of the bottem end later. One rave valve is covered. Thankyou.:cheers:.....ill put up pics as soon as i can, I'm not the best at describing these things.

 

[djredman99]

Remove the gray plastic cover over the PTO/driveshaft. The PTO housing has several bolts sticking out which you can place a wrench in between for leverage and spin.

 

[lovetoride]

still having trouble

I have been slowly working on it a little every day to give time for the PB to soak in. I have made no progress in unfreezing the engine, also i have put a lot of force on it. I'm starting to wonder if there is something else preventing the engine from turning. Do people usually have a horrible time unfreezing engines. Also I've been jacking up the ski (when not working on it) to make the cylinders level so the PB/ATF can evenly reach around the cylinder.

 

[djredman99]

Remove the gray plastic cover over the PTO/driveshaft. The PTO housing has several bolts sticking out which you can place a wrench in between for leverage and spin.

Yeah, your PTO cover does not have all the bolts sticking out like mine to get a wrench in them for leverage.

I wonder if a strap wrench would help you out here. I have a nice two-piece set from Craftsman. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00945570000P

You could try wrapping around the PTO cover and turning. You'd be surprised how well they grip. Would imagine you could put a lot of force into it.

 

[greyrider]

Pull the pump first. If it got water in and rusted, you could be wasting your time with the motor...
good luck

 

[lovetoride]

The pump is off, spins nicely. I will be replacing the wear ring while I'm in there. The pump was quite fun thought, who ever had the ski before me used some serious glue, around the housing...looked like some type of roofing caulk. Also I'll pick up one of those strap wrenches and give it a try.. i have a feeling like it will break. but ill try anything..thanks:cheers:

 

[Rampage]

Im interested in this. The parts ski I bought is froze too. I put a huge pipe wrench on the PTO shaft and cant get it to budge....but I think mine is way worse then yours.. Good luck. I will let you know if I come up with something before you. :cheers:

 

[seadooya]

remove the zerk fitting on the pto, then get ahold of it. I use a chain pipe-wrench, when these scenerios comes about.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Bearings?....

I have a feeling, it's going to be worse than you think. Like Seadooya has said, if you put some PB or oil inside, loosen up the rings, it will let go of a light seize. But, if your not able to get it to break loose after a little setting for a few days, you may very well have a bad bearing.

I hate being the devils advocate, but even if you do free this up, you could have a flat spot on a roller ball bearing, cause this. The motor will run for another season or so (maybe), but then may start to cause more trouble.

From what I am seeing, your having a hard time to find a place to turn the motor over. Well, I see the head is off, so don't have to worry about pulling the plugs out. But, you should be able to reach behind the motor, pull off the grey shaft cover and grab the PTO and wiggle it from right to left.

If you have to use a pipewrench to break the seize.... I'd be wanting to pull and inspect the bottom end. Usually, a light seize is in the top end and is really easy to break.

If you don't want to pull the motor, you can consider pulling the 4 bolts in your cylinder jugs and removing them. Then, you'll be able to tell if it's a cylinder sticking or if you've got bottom end problems.

If you do pull the jugs, make sure you look at the base gasket. In the center, you'll see a series of holes. This determines the gasket thickness for your squish gap. You need to replace that base gasket with one of the same thickness.

I hope, by the time you read this, you've already got the motor to turn over......:cheers:

Oh, BTW... I almost forgot. If your starter is seized, the bendix is engaged to the motor, this will also make you think your motor is seized. So, make sure you check the starter......

 

[lovetoride]

so im ****ed

I have no movement at all at the impeller shaft, so from my understanding of snipes post i should have little movement if it was the rings stuck to the wall, if not then it is most likely the bottem end. knowing that should i continue to try and break it by turning the shaft or go ahead and start pulling the motor. also i dont think it is the starter because when I try and start it i can clearly hear the starter moving and engageing. When i can get a good grip on the shaft (hahah) I eather unscrew the flywheel or everything else moves but the shaft (engine mounts, ski on trailer, trailer itself) ive been using a crowbar and a pipe over that. Once again thankyou all for giving me imput. :cheers:

 

[lovetoride]

started working

I got down to business today, pulling the engine and starting to strip it down. For now I'm stuck on the flywheel till i can barrow my friends puller. Progress will be slow due to time constraints (thanks midterms). One thing that I noticed that is starting to bother me is the timing, seams like the engine will be really hard to clock, is it that hard, or am i worrying for nothing? Oh and one more question i will probably redo the top end sense I'm there, any suggestions on boring or honing, if i have it over bored will i see any real advantages or problems. thank you :cheers:

 

[seadooya]

you should've left the mag cup on, and with you hav'n some time, could've ordered the flywheel remover from SBT for 25 buks. Theres notches on the cup/flywheel, so "timing" is 180* off. As for timing the rv plate, no worries, theres tons of threads, that show how to....147*/65* is your markings.

Theres a company in FL, on ebay, Playtime Powersports, sells the entire kit....crank, pistons..etc, for 475 shipped to door, you just need to know the size piston to get. If yuo bore up to .5 over, then you'll need to relieve the RAVES a tad, aint hard to do, a file will work, or bench grinder. FULLBOREONLINE has the best price for cylinder boring, handsdown.

 

[lovetoride]

found it

original (Got more work done, little update. I finally got to the heart of the problem the piston closed to the impeller is locked up bad. Ive been pounding on it with the handle of a 2lb hammer and it doesn't move at all, I'm afraid of going crazy because i don't wanna crack anything. ("I've beat on it, cut at it and took a torch to it. All I want is the bottom end" SeadooSnipe) does that mean it is safe to take a torch to the cylinder to try and free it or he did because he only wanted the bottom? also thanks seadooya great info :cheers: )
revised-used the flywheel puller to push the piston out the bottom, it fought me the entire time, God bless the puller. strange though only one side of the piston is all messed up and rusty, also found a healthy amount of sand in the engine, really keeps things moving smoothly. .

 

[seadooya]

Same problem years ago, when pounding out a piston, you'll need to take cylinder to shop, have them hone it for 10 buks, to inspect, that the sleeve, did not crack, from the pounding/vibration, of the hammer.....you'll see a black/black hairlines run'n throughout the sleeve.