Just installed engine. Would not start. Rocker arms broke..

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I have been a 2 stroke buy until last year. Still learning these 4 tecs. While I have learned a lot over the past year. Can fix many things on them and install the engine now with my eyes closed, this is the first time I had to do the timing on one.
I installed an engine today but first time I had to put a cylinder head on. Last night I read and watched videos on how to do the timing. I had the number 3 cylinder at TDC and used locking tool on crank shaft. I had the cam shaft also set and used locking tool. Installed the gear wheel with both lines for 1503 even with body of head. Now the rocker arms were already installed at the time I did the timing. This was a full cylinder head just switching over to new short block.
I installed the engine. When I went to start it, it would not start. Sounded like a weak battery so I put another in. Same thing. Eventually it sounded like it was no longer going to start and I just heard a spinning sound (cam shaft). I took cylinder head top off and rocker arms were broken. Never really heard and breaking sound though.
Is this because timing was not don right? and if so what did I do wrong? I do have another good cylinder head. Would prefer to just use rocker arms from it since I did just buy the stretch bolts today for put it on and do not want to spend another $80 again for a days use. I will buy the rocker arm bolts but I want to figure out what I did wrong before I ruin another set then I am screwed.
 
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Are you sure you installed the locking tools properly? Do you know that cylinder number 3 is the one towards the bow and number 1 is at the rear?

Chester
 
Are you sure you installed the locking tools properly? Do you know that cylinder number 3 is the one towards the bow and number 1 is at the rear?

Chester

Well I did confuse cylinder 1 and 3. So thanks for that. I put new rocker arms on and did timing properly this time. Engine is not starting. It is turning over. Shaft spinning but nothing. I took off head cover and everything there seemed fine. Problem is it seems it is spinning too easy though. Not what I am use to when cranking one. Almost like no resistance when starter is spinning.
 
Well I did confuse cylinder 1 and 3. So thanks for that. I put new rocker arms on and did timing properly this time. Engine is not starting. It is turning over. Shaft spinning but nothing. I took off head cover and everything there seemed fine. Problem is it seems it is spinning too easy though. Not what I am use to when cranking one. Almost like no resistance when starter is spinning.

Do a compression test just to see the numbers. Still sounds like you are not timed properly to me.
 
I wanted to do a compression test but I do not have the adapter for the 4 tec.
When I redid the timing today I did set the proper cylinder 3 this time to TDC (piston closes to secondary oil pump). Locked the crankshaft and it did not move at all. This time the rocker arms were not installed. I turned the camshaft until it was in proper position to be locked. I locked the camshaft into place so it would not move. I them set the gear and chain so that the 1503 lines were matched up to the top of cylinder head. I put the bolts in loosely to hold the gear so that I could but in timing chain tensioner. Once tensioner was in I locked down the gear bolts. Everything looked fine to me and it still would not start.
I do not mind the learning experience and could even deal with the headache. What is driving me crazy is have to keep buying stretch bolts. This is stating to get expensive. Have to go buy more rocker arm bolts in the morning just as I did this morning.
 
Do a compression test. Since you say engine spins freely you could have bent a valve when the timing was off.
 
Ski is up and running now. Bent the valves all to hell when I had timing off. Luck I had another head. Did timing right and it is good. Expensive learning lesson but at least now I know.
 
A couple of hints. When you install the crank locking tool, it is only designed to go into one position, not lock the crank at any position. If you look through the crank locking hole with a flashlight you can see the small hole in the crank lobe that the locking tool is made to go into. If you don't see the hole, it is not in the correct position. Also, the other end of the crank locking tool is made to find and center this hole. Once the hole is found and centered, you turn the tool around and thread it into the hole which will lock the crank in the proper position for assembly and timing.

Whenever pistons hit the valves, they bend. It only takes a slight wobble in the stem to ruin the valve.
 
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