Just bought a 99 GSX limited....need some answers.

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Seadoobuddy

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As you can see in my avatar my "new" ski that I just bought with the help of Spimothy Leary and his mechanic friend Chuck. Got it for $900 with trailer.
Compression is 130 in both cylinders, (135 is perfect for the 951 motor)
190 hours,
VTS doesn't work (wish I paid attention to all those fixes)
Built in bilge pump.
with a slightly abused cover too.
trailer needs lights. (I'm thinking of LED from Harbor Freight) Also a shorty trailer with 10 inch tires.
It need a good cleaning of the inside of the hull & a good wash and wax on the outside.
bogs down at 1/3 throttle....still has gray fuel lines. These 2 will be the first thing on the agenda.

So the big question is ....should the crank be replaced? New rings too????
This won't be ridden much at the moment as it's staying in Florida for me to ride during vacations there.

What's the main fix for the VTS....Chuck will check the fuses on Monday or Tuesday.

Idk the exact condition of the wear ring & impeller yet.

If needed, what is a good over all impeller for this? A nice balance of take off and top speed.

I'm open to any & all suggestions except to sell it to you :) :)
 
Why would you go breaking down the engine if it still has 130 psi in it on both jugs. You only got the thing for 900 dollars, you might as well run it until it dies, and then get a new or rebuild your engine. Get the fuel line situated and carbs cleaned, and it sounds like you have gotten a great deal!
 
Yep, I'd go over it and ride it until it's spent, then worry about it. Nice deal BTW! It's amazing how fast the deals happen on here.
 
being as I looked at it., my $.02 (which will cost a hell of alot more than $.02 :) )

and i'm probably overlooking something or 3.

carb's obviously, rebuild kits & labor
accel pumps, check or remove & rejet +.05 & think about primer kit.
replace fuel & oil injection lines or premix. (i'd be inclined to not premix)
crank.. sounds quiet enough and comp is good, too much labor & parts to replace crank IMO, you gotta spend 600+ now to save $1100 (1700) somewhere down the line. (2 weeks, 2 months, 2 years, nobody knows) + you could always replace the crank next summer it won't cost any more or less to do it then than now. but a crank failure will be a major bummer, its not a question of if, its a question of when.
have Chuck run a camera and inspect reeds/cyl's and go from there
vts hope for fuse, (good luck) then either spend $100 for a replacement (i have one) or just stick it a hair above center and leave it be.
previous owner stated seadoo oil and i think its about 1/2 full, you can gamble and just add oil as needed or pay labor to drain, replace, or do it yourself over the winter.
leave tires (8") alone but invest in hub/bearing kit (labor will be as much as parts tho) but the bearings would be a little scary on the highway, their noisy now. as it stands i'd be a little worried about it on the highway, actually i'd go as far as saying that i'd be uncomfortable with it on the highway. (bunks haven't been inspected)
battery is lead acid (blah) i'd replace with sealed agm
can't clean the inside of the hull easily right now, motor is in but carbs are off, but its disgusting inside and there are no volunteers right now to clean it.:leaving:
trailer lights - either $20 ghetto rigged with spares or $40 led's, completely non functional & rusted out now bolts will have to be cut off, again, labor is as much as the parts (if you go ghetto)
spare tire is just a rim , no rubber (looks funny and has spider's in it, ewwww) $35 at trailer place, your call.

bottom line, the $900 good buy will cost a few bucks to make it a solid runner, and significantly more to get extra cautious and replace the crank, but would I have bought it with $900 of my own money? ya, i sure would have, there's a bit of work to do but nothing unexpected so far unless the camera show's something up.
 
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I agree with CReynoldsMIZ, just run the motor for all its worth, you might get lucky and get another 50 to 100 hrs outta it. Get the grey lines changed and maybe clean out the fuel tank, clean raves, carbs, change jet oil etc for a few bucks you should have a good running ski. As far as the VTS my did not work when I bought it, then pulled the whole unit out, took the electric motor out of the case and cleaned it, plugged it in and it worked, I don't think to many have had that kind of good luck but I was able to get a season out of it so far. I also pulled the shaft and worm gear apart and greased it up while it was apart.
By the way even with a rebuild it sounds like a good deal, something like that up in Ontario is $3000 and you could buy it and have it blow up the next day anyways.
 
ok i remembered more things (kicker reminded me)

the throttle cable needs replaced
and you need a new deflector shield, (the plastic thing that goes over the gauges, i think its black), or just ignore it.
drain fuel tank & replace w/good gas
jet pump oil and pump inspection
water test.
& a solas would be sweet in this, take the power level up a bit....

edit... 1 more thing, pipe needs to come out and maybe re-weld, there looks like one of the plugs might have a pinhole on the underneath side.
 
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I picked up a 99 GSX LTD w/double trailer and a 99 XP (blown engine)... sold the blown XP because it wasn't up to my quality standard for a rebuild... in all spent $1,000 for a running 99 GSX LTD and a double trailer...

of course the last guy who 'put $1800 into it' had shit work done.

Pipe was loose, muffler not strapped to hull, few nuts/bolts missing. 2 screws on the carbs missing! (how did this thing run?!) wrong oil used... etc.

I've fixed all the issue, and it hits 6,900 RPM wide open with old gas, stabilizer, extra oil, and really old plugs. I'm sure this spring I'll break 7,000 RPM WOT with fresh everything... (I added the right oil to the gas while switching the oil to the right stuff). They were using some blue TWC-3 stuff, EXACTLY what is says NOT to use on the damn sticker!!!!

I don't think they did any permanent damage, but it was bogging down whenever I"d land it off a jump, so I redid the carbs, pipe, etc

Fuel Gauges doesn't work (pickup sensor is my guess), but it's a BEAOCH to reach in this ski, and the electric pump doesn't work (new one on ebay $55)

VTS works
Speedo Works
Temp Works

Deck needs buffed, and some misc cosmetic stuff, but it's going to be my beater ski, but man is it a FUN ski. It doesn't cut the turns like my XP, but at 30 lbs lighter, it JUMPS and MOVES. Stable enough for 2 and love the big gas tank.
 
My 2 cents......


Change the fuel lines, clean the carbs, and RAVEs... and go have fun. There is no reason to crack open a running 951, and do a "Freshening" since you don't really know the history. A new top end, may take out the crank. Run it till it gives up, and put in an SBT.
 
we're all on the same page, get the dam thing running, stick it in the river to make sure its not taking in water anywhere, fix what has to be fixed, and finish the misc stuff back at home, (oil, trailer, cleaning, etc)

i've already got 4 hours invested in this project so my volunteer time is dried up :)
 
Also, no way would I do rings / crank on that engine. water test it. 130 vs 135 compression is meaningless, read the sea-doo manual. It's only good for finding out you have 130 and 20 on the same engine.
 
So far I need 2 carb kits and OEM N&S, a throttle cable & a black gauge cover on the hood.
Who has some?

Also a minor pinhole leak in the pipe....going to get it welded by Chuck.
 
UPDATE:

I ordered the carb parts + N&S from ParkerYamaha, & got the cable and deflector from Pat (Patriceg) in Bradenton, Fl.

Chuck will put a camera down thru the Rave openings to check the crank and cylinders, then clean/rebuild the Raves as needed.

more later.....
 
The carbs were a bit dirty and a couple screws were hard to get out but some heat took care of that.

The throttle cable I got locally wasn't much better than the one I had, SO I'm still looking for a 99 GSXL cable, (part # is 277000838 ???) I believe that a 98 will NOT fit.
 
Oh....and heres the picture of a 99 w/ the red gauge deflector on it....

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Oh....and heres the picture of a 99 w/ the red gauge deflector on it....

download.php

Thanks for uploading the changed image.

In your parts link - Dang, that red/black seat looks awesome. How much?
Does the deflector have all 4 tabs.
 
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Yup all 4 tabs...and getting them off requires cannibalizing the hood to keep from breaking the tabs.


What are you asking about the seat?
 
Really? you have to break the hood? You can remove the underside and pry them apart? I had to remove the underside of mine to epoxy back together the 20 odd 'mounts' that broke... I think I did ok, when putting the screws back in, only one broke off, so I think it will hold. I used weather stripping to keep the hood tight to the clasp now as well... I might lower it a hair to keep it snug.

I got a lid off Minnetonka, it worked for mine. Black. but bright red could look cool to, the ski has a LOT of red w/a all red seat.
 
You have to drill the plastic around the tabs to keep from breaking them. Thats why the one you already have is broken.
 
I think the underhood on mine was broken because the previous owner(s) was a moron... thing was beat to death.. did you see the pics?

WOW i didn't know the red lid looked that cool! Now I want a red one dammit!

And WOW that thing SHINES! I need to get back on mine w/another go w/the buffer... I have a 7" one, need to pickup a 4" or drill one... I took it to the hood on mine, cleaned that up well! mirrors too!
 
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Something I bought to help to fix stuff....a new but older compressor in Florida.......now for the rest of the story......

Quote Originally Posted by Seadoobuddy (originally posted about a week ago)
This isn't a boat or a ski but I found it in last Friday's Florida's Craigslist.

It was listed for $35 on Friday.

I had my wife call on it (she's in Florida right now) She bought it for $20. No hose and the cord has electrical tape on it, but for the price I couldn't pass it, since I have no "tools" in Florida. It does run & shuts off automatically.
Shoot, it's bigger than the 12Gal & 2-1/2 Hp Craftsman I have in Michigan.

See story in "Florida Classified thread"....
**************************
Today
Well this sucks big time.....while searching online for a manual for this beast, I came across a recall notice and mine is listed. These have a tendency to rust from the inside out. (my wife said there is rust on the bottom outside of tank at the valve.) They are offering $100 check or $200 if you buy a new one from them. The one similar they offered was smaller, a 2HP and 30 Gal tank.....my cost after the refund was to be $520.00 or a 2HP & 20 Gal tank was to be about $380.00.....so I took the $100 check and they pay to pick up the old compressor.
Guess I'll buy another one in better shape with the extra $80.
Better to be safe than sorry if it explodes on me
 
i HATE it when things explode on me. I told my wife to pick up the $70 harbor freight job for me for xmas, as it's $39.99 w/coupon :)

I won't be using it to paint any cars, or even run much other than maybe a cut off wheel or wire brush... so $40 it is!
 
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