Jet Pump Wear Ring Replacement on Salt Water SPI - Salt Damage

[JustSteve]

After spending the better part of the weekend pulling the pump and replacing the wear ring, I put together a video that shows exactly why you want to buy used parts from a freshwater machine. Everything worked out fine, but I'm not sure that I want to work that hard again for a jet pump.

[video=youtube;WMmMT0N-fmU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMmMT0N-fmU[/video]

 

[pawn]

I enjoyed the video. I was wondering about the breaker bar you were using to remove the impeller. I plan on replacing the wear ring on my '95 XP but everything I read here says you need an impeller tool to remove it. This is the first time I've removed an impeller so I have no idea what an impeller tool is or how it works and unfortunately, whatever you're doing with the bar is away from the the camera. I get that you're holding down the housing with a strap and stopping the drive shaft from turning with a strapped down pipe wrench while you twist something off the other side. Will a crow bar work just as well?

Sorry to be lazy. I'm in no hurry to do this and I'll just order the right tool if it's necessary but why bother if I already have what I need? Thanks in advance.

 

[mikidymac]

The correct way to do it is to remove the tailcone then put the flats of the impeller shaft in a bench vise.

The impeller is splined so the "impeller tool" has matching splines that go into the impeller on one end and a hex for a socket on the other. You will also need this to reinstall the impeller and torque it to spec.

 

[pawn]

The correct way to do it is to remove the tailcone then put the flats of the impeller shaft in a bench vise.

The impeller is splined so the "impeller tool" has matching splines that go into the impeller on one end and a hex for a socket on the other. You will also need this to reinstall the impeller and torque it to spec.
View attachment 40703

Ahh...so the breaker bar was just a giant socket wrench arm extension, I get it. Hopefully that was only needed due to the salt damage.


Thanks for the response!

 

[JustSteve]

What mikidyma says below is the right answer. I have a home-made tool like that but I couldn't find it so I used a pipe wrench on the drive shaft. That shaft was bent so I wasn't concerned about damaging it. What you can't see on the backside of the pump is the pump shaft end that the wrench (the one at the end of the breaker bar) holds. You have to remove the tail cone to get to it and then you have a way to hold the pump shaft whlie you unscrew the impeller. Looks like I missed that step in the video. When you remove the tail cone, do it over a bucket. It has a few ounces of very stinky synthetic gear oil inside that you might not want all over your workbench. This job isn't a big deal unless the drive shaft is rusted to the impeller and the impeller housing is heavily corroded. As you saw, corrosion can turn a 30 minute job into a weekend job. Good luck!

 

[pawn]

:thumbsup: