internal wiring diagram for a 1994 VTS module

[njcowboy]

Anyone have one?
I have seen the internet ones for the 1996, but this is completely different.
It is the VTS module that is in the electric box and not directly attached to the VTS motor like the 1996 and above.

Part number is 278000029 or some have it listed as 278000358
It looks like this

 

[seadoosnipe]

1993 - 1995

That is the electronic module for the older skis, used from 1993 thru 1995.

 

[njcowboy]

That is the electronic module for the older skis, used from 1993 thru 1995.

Yep.

The relays are not the problem, but I am going to tinker with a single reversing relay that will do what that board does, but I am not sure where the Red and Purple wire tie in at.

The Black, Blue/White. Green/White, Blue and Green motor wires are hooked are no issue. I can't see what is going on inside the potting material to see where the Red and Purple wire attach.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Module.....

On your wiring........the GR/WH goes to the down side of your switch and the BL/WH go to the up side. Well, the PU wire goes to that middle or third wire for completing the circuit on the switch.
The Red wire goes to your positive side of the starter solenoid and is protected by the 15 amp fues.
I hope this helps you out some.......................:cheers:

 

[njcowboy]

Seadoo,
The purple wire is also hot. Do you know what the voltage should be on the purple wire? Should it be 12V or should it come in less? The purple wire uses a barrel plug to connect to (I believe) a red/white wire that is only hot when the timer is on or when the engine is running.

At the first barrel, the voltage is 10.9 when the voltage at the fuse is 12.4
This might be the root of my problems.

I might put in a battery switch and wire the purple wire to be hot all the time and just turn off the voltage when I am done, but my reading about other VTS modules says that the voltage should be less at the purple wire. Yet if I hook the purple wire to a 12V connection my VTS works fine.

What I am really curious about is why there is two HOT wires, the purple and the red.
The red is always hot, but not sure why it is that way.

 

[seadoosnipe]

hmmmmmmmm

I think I understand what you are saying, but when you look at the drawing, it seems that the red drives the motor when given the permission to and the other wire (PU) powers the switch to the proper relay. As is now, looking at the drawing, the two wires you've attached to the switch is to reverse polarity to signal the VTS motor to turn one way or the other. But with just one wire to each side of the switch, it will be dead. No complete circuit at all.
Try this. Hook up all wires as I printed in the above post. Then, disconnect the plug(s) leading to the VTS motor themselves. Then, take a voltmeter and put the positive lead in one of the plug wires and the other to a ground. It should show no power. Then, do the same to the other, should show the same. Now, with one lead in one of the plug connections coming from your switch and one to ground, push your VTS switch on the handle bar (up or down, depending which wire is in circuit), you should be showing close to 12 vdc.
You have to have a power wire running to the VTS interupter switch on the handle bar. If not, like I said above, it will be a dead circuit. The two wires you have connected already, one is for up, the other for down. But you have nothing to charge those wires for communication. That's what the purple wire is for.:cheers:

 

[kustomkarl]

:agree: Your correct on the direction of power seadoosnipe.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Thanks!

Thanks for your support Karl....!.......:cheers:

 

[njcowboy]

Well,
I honestly think that Seadoo has over complicated the entire VTS module.
Maybe on the newer models that have limits, but the old ones go up and down at will. At least from what I have found.

They are similar to a true tilt and trim motor on an outboard. The limit is the person hitting the switch.

I have read alot about guys burning out the worm gear because they don't stop pushing the button. If that is true, there is no reason why a good reversing polarity relay won't work.

I have two different kinds to tinker with. A DEI 451M and a Tyco VBA-1001 switch

The Tyco is an industrial strength relay but does not have lead wires. The DEI has pigtail wires already hooked up all it needs are bullet crimps.

You can get the DEI on ebay for probably 10 bucks or at a store that installs car alarms for 20 bucks.

Can anyone give me a reason why this can't work?

There is a guy on Ebay selling VTS module retrofits. It looks like the same thing except he put the unit in a plastic box and poured potting material on it.

I plan to use Butyl Rubber tape to seal the relays then tape with electrical tape.

We use Butyl Rubber tape on our radio equipment that we install on the towers. If it can hang 300' in the air and get exposed to all weather conditions and stay waterproof, there is no reason why it can't work in the electrical box.

 

[njcowboy]

Well, I am done my rewiring job and it works like a charm.
I used the tyco relay and the vts is working perfectly.

When it hits the top or bottom limit, the relay kicks off until you let go of the button and then will work again when you press it. It pretty much has a built in high and low limit in it.

Total cost for the relay, inline fuse and shrink tubing was 25 dollars.

Some times over engineering a simple device is not good!

 

[seadoosnipe]

Great job!....

You see, it wasn't that hard after all!....
I've found most of Seadoo's repair work is simple, if you approach it with a simple view.
Like you said, over anaylizing something is bad for your brain.....takes extra beers to help clear out the fog!.............:cheers:
I'll consider this post came to a successful end and close it now. Please feel free to start a new thread on anything else you need help with.......
Great job!............:hurray: