lil_racer_76
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i have a 1997 xp seadoo 787/800 i am splitting the crank to replace bearings and rods i am wondering if my crank presses apart or screws apart
i need some help splitting my crank
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Welcome to the seadoo Forum lil racer 76. The crank needs to be pressed apart to replace the crank bearings.
Karl
Karl
lil_racer_76
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Thanks karl i will do that then
Crankshaft....
Lil Racer.....there is a lot that goes into checking and changing the bearings on your crankshaft. I'm curious as to why you feel that you need to do that. Did you do a deflection test on your crank to find your bearings are bad? Do you have leaking rotary chamber seals? Have you checked the connecting rod big end axial play.
There are two special tools (bearing pullers) that are needed to remove your bearings.
When putting the bearings and crank back in, you'll need to use a distance gage to properly position the outer MAG side bearing.
You'll also need a dial indiator to check deflection again and to check to see that the crank hasn't been twisted.
The crank itself is a solid machined piece of metal. I'm in question as to the term, "splitting my crank". The bearings are put back on by heating a "pot" of oil to 167*F to expand them so that they'll slide on. Of course, heat expands, cold contracts.
What your planning to do isn't just a "let me pop it out and put it back in" kinda mentality, if you want it to run right. With a 7000 rpm engine, the crank is the back bone and needs to follow several steps in doing a proper replacement.
Good luck........you might find it easier to just order the complete crank set, already assembled and replace your old one. There are several ways you can get it. With or without the pistons....etc....
Lil Racer.....there is a lot that goes into checking and changing the bearings on your crankshaft. I'm curious as to why you feel that you need to do that. Did you do a deflection test on your crank to find your bearings are bad? Do you have leaking rotary chamber seals? Have you checked the connecting rod big end axial play.
There are two special tools (bearing pullers) that are needed to remove your bearings.
When putting the bearings and crank back in, you'll need to use a distance gage to properly position the outer MAG side bearing.
You'll also need a dial indiator to check deflection again and to check to see that the crank hasn't been twisted.
The crank itself is a solid machined piece of metal. I'm in question as to the term, "splitting my crank". The bearings are put back on by heating a "pot" of oil to 167*F to expand them so that they'll slide on. Of course, heat expands, cold contracts.
What your planning to do isn't just a "let me pop it out and put it back in" kinda mentality, if you want it to run right. With a 7000 rpm engine, the crank is the back bone and needs to follow several steps in doing a proper replacement.
Good luck........you might find it easier to just order the complete crank set, already assembled and replace your old one. There are several ways you can get it. With or without the pistons....etc....
Have a professional do the job!
I would suggest that you bring it to professional to have it done. It isn't a do it your self process. You could also just buy a replacement crank to save a lot of aggravation, it might be cheaper too.
I would suggest that you bring it to professional to have it done. It isn't a do it your self process. You could also just buy a replacement crank to save a lot of aggravation, it might be cheaper too.
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