How to remove sleeve from impeller shaft 271000291

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bernaro1

bernaro1

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I have purchased an impeller shaft Seadoo part number 271000291. The shaft appears to have a 190mm long sleeve or bushing on the end of it, before the threads start, that needs to be removed in order to reduce the shaft diameter for the impeller to be installed over the shaft and onto the threads. The shaft I removed does not have the sleeve/bushing on it. The impeller is an aftermarket Solas Concord SD-CD-14/22. Does anyone know the process to remove this sleeve/bushing from the impeller shaft?
20150627_190129[1].jpg
 
It is the correct part for this boat. If you look closely at the picture, you can see where it appears to have a 190mm long bushing on the end of the shaft. I also attempted to find a part that looks like the old one but cannot locate one. I consulted Solas website and numersous others and cannot locate any information that the Solas impeller requires a different shaft than the stock shaft. Therefore, I am assuming that this sleeve/bushing comes off.
 
Not yet. I was hoping that someone knows the definitive process to remove it before I risk damaging the shaft in case it is not the correct one I could resell it.
 
I have yet to see this question. [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] may be able to give guidance as he sells many drive shafts..
 
I have never dealt with this exact issue, but I have dealt with similar bushings on other shafts and have used to propane torch method. The key is to heat only the bushing and not the rest of the shaft so only the bushing expands. This can often be done with only 10-15 seconds of evenly applying heat around the bushing then it can often be easily pulled off with a pair of channel locks, it is best to hold it with a fire resistant cloth (a scrap strip of fiber glass tape works) to keep from maring the bushing with the channel locks, or vise grips Sometimes they will even fall off on their own with no pulling when heated.. You do want to work fast so the bushing does not transfer much heat to the shaft and caust the shaft to expand.

As I said I have never done it on one of these shafts, so you probably want to wait on more specific advice.

Ike

p.s. pul with a twisting motion, don't try to pull straight off.
 
Bonmotwang said:
It doesn't look like the right part?


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Click to expand...

It isn't, the '96 Speedster can use OEM # 204120064 or 272000073 17" shaft there was never any bushing used on them only a milled flange to bottom out on the impeller hub.
 
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The part numbers you are recommending are the drive shaft part numbers, not the impeller shaft. I need an answer to my question regarding the impeller shaft, not the drive shafts.
 
Ive never seen a driveshaft like the one on the right. Have you tried the one on the left? Thats what its supposed to look like. Take a picture of the pump...I have a theory that it might be a big hub brass 140mm which are EXTREMELY rare, and were only put on problem warranty customers boats in the day.
 
bernaro1 said:
The part numbers you are recommending are the drive shaft part numbers, not the impeller shaft. I need an answer to my question regarding the impeller shaft, not the drive shafts.
Click to expand...

Apologies, I saw your post on the phone screen and got them wrong you are looking for the correct part number for the impeller shaft. It's just a machined shaft with threads cut on the end, no bushing on the stock or big hub pump shafts were used.
 
This is an impeller shaft, not a drive shaft. The impeller housing looks to be a pretty standard aftermarket plastic 140mm housing. The impeller Solas Concord SD-CD-14/22) has an extended cone on it requiring the shaft to go into the impeller quite a ways when completely screwed on. See attached pics for examples of the old shaft in the impeller and the new one. The new shaft barely catches one thread and then interferes with shaft. The bushing/sleeve NEEDS to come off somehow.

20150627_213744.jpg20150627_213755.jpg20150627_213807.jpg20150627_213902.jpg20150627_213955.jpg
 
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The sleeve is stuck in the impeller. That sleeve is actually a bearing race that seadoo uses for the lip seal to ride on. They're typically pressed on and not sold as a separate part. If you had bearings and seals in that pump you'd be able to slide that shaft into the pump and clearly seas that when it got the the impeller side of the pump that there would be no support for the bearing or seal on that end. Put some rags on the part on the piece stuck the the impeller and try and get that out with some pliers.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
Well holy crap. Yes, the old sleeve/bushing was stuck in the impeller. I guess everything got so hot that it came off the old shaft. I knocked it off by inserting the old shaft partially into the sleeve and hitting it sideways with a rubber mallet. I would like to thank all those that replied and especially Sportster-2001-951C-Stock, racerxxx, and Minnetonka4me!
 
Thanks bernaro1 for letting us know here are two pieces in the shaft.


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I'm pretty sure the sleeve on the shaft is intended to be a "crush ring" that when the impeller is torqued, expands slightly to make a tight fit inside the hub of the impeller. Notice, the shoulder of the shaft inside the sleeve is recessed slightly to allow the sleeve to bottom out in the impeller first, as the impeller is threaded onto the impeller shaft. The torquing process will cause the sleeve to expand to the ID of the impeller.

Many gear boxes use a similar crush-ring strategy to obtain a precise bearing pre-load.
 
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
I'm pretty sure the sleeve on the shaft is intended to be a "crush ring" that when the impeller is torqued, expands slightly to make a tight fit inside the hub of the impeller. Notice, the shoulder of the shaft inside the sleeve is recessed slightly to allow the sleeve to bottom out in the impeller first, as the impeller is threaded onto the impeller shaft. The torquing process will cause the sleeve to expand to the ID of the impeller.

Many gear boxes use a similar crush-ring strategy to obtain a precise bearing pre-load.
Click to expand...

Nope, it's a bearing race that's pressed on. It's either a Timken or Torrington. The lip seal rides on it.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
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