How-To, carbon seal service and replacement.

[LouDoo]

Guys, I'm asking for your input(s) with words and pictures.

For some reason we have seen a rash of carbon seal failures this summer. I'm not sure why. It occurred to me that we really need a "How-To" article on the subject. Personally I have never changed one, I've been lucky I guess. I do know how its done because I've removed the drive shaft a time or two.

Anyway if you guys could put together a thread I think it would be a real asset, just do it in the 2-stroke section and I'll move it to the How-To section. I'm going to alert guys who are active and who would have the knowledge and pictures to do this, so if your name is not here please feel free to contribute. Lets try to keep this mostly answers with few questions. Thanks guys.

[MENTION=16022]Dr Honda[/MENTION] [MENTION=59978]kicker[/MENTION] [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION]

Lou

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Interesting...Really all that needs to be done when replacing the carbon seal is pulling the pump and driveshaft. Make sure to FIRST slide the "tophat" shaped seal towards the back to reveal the clip (or Oring) that holds it in place. Its tough to get it apart after the pump is removed so do that first. Disregard the note in the picture...

Couple other tips...

When it is worn to one side and not centered on the "top hat" you can loosen the clamp and turn it 180 degrees. It will then usually wear the other direction.

If the carbon ring has chips or cracks...it needs to be replaced.

You can up the level of pressure by loosening the back clamp on the carbon ring boot, sliding the room forward a little, and reclamp.

If you want to save a few dollars I have many good used OEM ones in stock and ready to ship.

 

[kicker]

If a carbon seal is in good shape but just is not snug enough against the SS ring (tophat) you can slide the rubber boot forward and put a bit more pressure against the ring, also be sure to have some grease in the zerk fitting that will keep things snug as well.



Check the condition of the rubber stoppers on the ends of the driveshaft, if they are munched be sure to dig the remnants out of the PTO and Impeller so the new ones will slide right in the same spot.



There are 2 O rings inside the stainless steel ring, these o rings prevent the water from entering between the driveshaft and stainless ring. When reassembling I like to put a little grease on there to be sure the orings don't buckle and slide on the shaft smoothly.



On some models there is a 3 rd O ring on the driveshaft, this O ring holds the SS ring from sliding forward. Other models use a metal C clip that slides over the driveshaft instead of an O ring as shown in Minne's picture, (the arrow top right) . It can be tough to slide the SS ring over the Oring ( or C clip) once in position properly you should not be able to see the O ring or clip. The picture in Minne's post shows the SS ring slid back which is exposing the C clip.

 

[LouDoo]

Thanks guys, I'm moving this to the "How-To" section, we welcome additional contributions but please no questions.

Lou

 

[racerxxx]

Here's a little more(not much of a video but...) Sorry for the shaking, but that was one hand doing the work while the other was juggling my cell phone shooting the vid.


[video=youtube;97qJA8v1MZk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97qJA8v1MZk[/video]