How freely must a New impeller spin in a New wear ring, in order for the engine to start?

[Fire3456]

I have a 2001 Sea Doo Sportster (single 951). I recently replaced almost everything from the PTO (Including the PTO) back, except the pump housing. With a new wear ring and new prop, how freely must the prop spin before the engine will be able to start? I had the assemble in a vice spinning the prop with a breaker bar, torque gun, and now I can spin...well not "Spin",.... but Move the impeller by hand without too much force.

How Freely must the impeller move before the engine will turn over and hopefully 'seat' the impeller?

Just FYI...I have it all installed. When I tried to start it, the wires on the batter heated up quite a bit. (I just gave it a few tries) and didn't even make clicking sounds. This seemed like a started problem, and it was. I was waiting for a new started which just arrived. I thought I'd post this question, which has been in my mind since I wore my arm out "spinning" the darn prop.

Thanks for any help

 

[Fire3456]

ALSO....I read on a post people would put lubricant on the new wear ring to help the prop spin easier. Would any lubricant work and not damage the wear ring?

 

[JC-SUPERJET]

If the Wear Ring is Plastic, it's probably made from Delrin which has good Chemical Resistance against Oil, Gasoline and Grease. The Lubricants will wash off anyway with use.

If you're really concerned about chemical damage to the Liner, then use Silicone Lubricant.

After manually spinning and "breaking-in" the Pump Liner to where it rotates easily by Hand, then a good Starter should easily be able to spin it without overheating.

Maybe something is wrong with the Starter or Wiring/Cables or the Rectifier...

Make sure that the Battery is fully charged and it has the rated Cold Cranking Amps.

 

[wayneh]

I replaced a starter in my 2001 Challenger some years ago. I blame its failure - by overheating - on a weak battery. It seems like a weak battery wouldn't be able to burn up a starter but I think what happens is that a low voltage while cranking will prevent the computer from starting the engine. So you crank and crank and eventually the field windings roast off their insulation and poof, you're done.

A long way of saying, do be careful and I second the recommendation to fully charge the battery before trying again. You may want to put a multimeter on it and watch the voltage while cranking. I'd get nervous of anything below 10V measured at the battery poles.

If you can turn it by hand, the starter should overcome minor friction.

 

[POPPS]

Okay,,,maybe you have named the thrust washer,,,pull the prop off again,,,often in AM wear rings they are tight,,,I like to put the prop into the wear ring before I install the prop,,,so I know ahead how tight it will be,,,and then knowing that,,,I will install the prop,,,and after,,,I will put marine grease on the ring and use my power bar to “break” the prop in,,,into the ring,,,rotate it enough that you can rotate it without too much effort,,,after you start it up,,,the motor will do the rest,,,

 

[Fire3456]

Thanks for all the valuable input! I did put the charger on the battery over night before starting the engine. The next day I decided to just give the starter a few 'clicks' to see if the prop would move at all. It actually moved more than I expected. The engine started up and the prop seated just fine!

FYI: Just to give people an idea of how much the prop would move before I installed everything. I did spend quite a lot of time spinning the prop with a breaker bar first, then a air gun. Then a ratchet wrench. Finally I could turn the prop 1/4 around with some effort, with my hand.

Thanks for all your help!!!!