HELP... OIL FILTER Question....

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csvt18

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I've owned this 95 seadoo XP for about 4 years now, and ive always taken care of it... Just changed the jet pump oil...

I want to know if the pictures shown, if that white filter is the oil filter? ... just checking here, the TOP tank in the one picture is the oil tank correct? FInally, Can I suction the oil out with a regular shop vac, if I put a small enough hose onto the end of the vac hose??

I bought a new one and was going to change it, then I was reading all this jumbo on bleeding, and no air, and bla bla bla... I also want to change the oil for this riding season... Should I just take this to a dealer, or is it relatively easy? I cant even find the bleeder screw.... and I dont want to mess anything up as far as getting air into the engine.

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Oil Filter

That is the oil filter, I don't know if this is an approved method but I will tell you how I changed mine. I pinched off the line close to the filter going to the engine. Drained the tank using the filter as the drain, when the tank was empty I changed the filter. I put about a quart of oil in the tank and let it drain through the new filter, blow into the tank until you have the oil free flowing and all of the air out of the line and filter. Put your finger over the end of the filter and connect it to the lower line. Release the pinch off and fill the rest of the tank, you're ready to go.

Now for the bad news, I noticed that you still have the gray fuel lines. You really need to consider replacing the gray fuel lines, clean and/or replace main and carb. fuel filters, replace fuel selector valve. There are threads on this forum that will tell you how to do this.

Lou
 
Lou,

With your method of pinching off the oil line, and draining, did you have any issues with air in the lines? Did you have to bleed at all??

I have heard about the gray fuel lines, but not into detail... I also haven't had any issues... What is the main problem with the gray fuel lines?
 
Oil Filter / Fuel Lines

Hi,

I didn't have a problem with air in the oil lines when I changed my oil filter. Just be sure to pinch off the lower oil line, the one from the filter to the motor close to the filter, so no air gets in this line. I used needle nose vice grips (with electrical tape around the jaws so you don't damage the line). With the method I used you are bleeding the upper hose and filter. Be sure to let enough oil flow so there are no air bubbles.

The gray fuel lines deteriote over time and produce a green goo. This goo gets everywhere in the fuel system. So you need to replace the original lines with 1/4" fuel hose from your auto parts store, you will need about 20' of hose, (more if you change the vent lines, I didn't), and about 20 stainless steel clamps. You will need to clean or replace the main fuel filter, carb. filters, and replace the fuel selector valve. There are other threads on this forum that go into this procedure in detail.

Lou
 
Thanks for the help Lou.


Is there any position on that part of the oil line I should pinch off at? Directly next to the filter? A few inches away? DOes it matter?



Also, Ive been looking at how to's and whatnot on how to replace the gray fuel lines... do you have to worry about air and bleeding with the fuel lines? Or just the oil lines?
 
Oil Lines / Fuel Lines

Pinch the oil line as close to the filter as you can, this is the only place that could get an air bubble, if there is air between where you pinched of the oil line and the end, use an eye dropper to fill the hose back up with oil. Mine stayed full of oil, so I just plugged the oil filter onto the line.

The fuel system does NOT need to be bled after you install the new hoses etc. you may need to choke it a little longer than normal.

Lou
 
Do or should I siphon the gas out before replacing the fuel lines?

I woudn't think so, since all your doing is getting the gas out of the tank...


Im scared to change these lines, as I can only see the ones on the carb, the others are hard to get too..... Are the grey lines in my pics just the vent lines btw? Im stuck as to whether they are, because they do go into the engine...
 
Gas Lines

No, you shouldn't have to drain the fuel tank to change the lines.

The fuel lines are not that hard to change, simply do one at a time, and follow the original route. The lines basically run from the fuel baffel, located in the fuel tank, behind the front storage basket. I would also recommend changing the fuel selector valve.

The hardest part is cleaning the carb. filters, you need to remove the carbs. to do this.

I'm not going to go into a lot of details, because there are already several threads about how to do this. There is also a pictoral of the carbs.

If you need help finding the treads, let me know and i'll point you to them.

Lou
 
I did some searching and found just threads of what you need to do the job...

If you could point me in the direction of a specific "how to" id much appreciate it.


The fuel baffle, and selector switch is confusing me. I get you have to replace one line at a time, but all this extra info. on the baffle and switch just adds to my confusion. On the switch, (may sound dumb here), how are you for certain your switch is on the main tank and not reserve? There really is no arrow, or anything, just a squiggly line going up and down on the knob.

Im a very visual learner if you havent been able to tell yet Haha.
 
Test Message

Hi,

I have tried twice to reply to your question, and have had a external error both times. If this works I will try again.

Lou
 
Fuel Selector Valve

If you buy a new fuel selector valve, and I suggest that you do, it will probably be a new style. The new style is superior over the older style, because the knob is stronger and less likely to crack. The difference is, at least on my ski is that now the center position, the off position now points up instead of down.

The easiest way to find which is main and which is reserve, it to place the valve in the position that you want the main to be, blow in the center and mark which side the air comes out. I used a toothpick and some white paint, one dot for main, two dots for reserve.

I'll send you the links in the next responce.

Lou
 
Fuel Selector Valve

I guess maybe the decal is missing on your ski. On mine the left position is main, the right position is reserve, and the middle position is off, off used to be down, with the new valve it's now up.
 
Thanks for the help...

Got some 1/4" fuel line today, gonna start replacing that size hose one at a time... really to get the hang of it, since it's never been done yet...


Im sure ill be on here more as I go along .
 
Back again....

Replaced the fuel lines on the carbs.. all except for a couple... took me a while being my first time doing this...


MAN, those stock clamps are HARD to get off.. thats what took most of the time up.. trying to break those things free.


AND, pulling the hose off the plastic connectors!! That was a PITA!!!! Like that plastic Y-connector for 2 of the hoses on the carb... I couldnt get the hoses to go back on like stock were.. I mean they are deffienetely tight on there, but there not snug up to the little notches on the side of the connector.. is this okay? THere really tight and fit on, just not like "stock" of course....

Any tips for removing and replacing the hoses on the plastic pieces to make it easier? Also, where does the 5/16" hose go? I just used the 1/4" hose so far....
 
Hoses

I didn't have any 5/16" hose on my ski. As far as getting the hose one the plastic couplers, and Y adapter. I didn't use the plastic couplers, I just used a continious piece of hose. When I did mine the old hose just slipped right off I didn't remove the old clamps.

Try some silicone spray lube on the hoses you are having trouble getting on.

Lou
 
Well, got the lines on the carbs done... those were the hardest in my opinion...I dont think I have any 5/16" lines either, I read that the 717's and less exclusively have 1/4" fuel lines, and 787 and above have both sizes. I also read that the lines on the carbs are the lines that are most likely to clog first, and breakdown first for some reason, so glad I got em done....

Now off to the longer fuel lines... As for the plastic connectors, I just applied a TINY amount of grease to the outside of them, and the hoses slid right on.
 
OH,

I meant to ask as well, any tips for reaching and maneuvering my hands and arms with the longer fuel lines that run from the engine compartment to the front of the ski??


Talk about tight spaces, also I have to take off that metal bracket that holds the throttle cable on, as there is a hose that runs just underneath that....
 
With those grey fuel lines and it is something you need to do anyways but you need to remove and at least clean the carb(s) and a possible rebuild as well as they clog up from those factory lines, that makes it much easier to replace all the lines...........

Soak the carbs in a bucket of carb clean dont just spray them.

Also never and I mean never use grease on the inside of the hoses to get them to slide on as it even with tight clamps will cause the hoses to slide back off during use, only use something that will evaporate like windex, water even and so on, but never any grease.
 
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Thanks for tellin me... I only used a very tiny amount, enough you almost couldnt even tell it was on there...

And I only used that tiny amount on one of the stubborn plastic connectors (on the actual plastic, not the inside of the hose, so when the hose was slid on, it pushed the grease away from the inside of the hose)... because there so damn hard to push the hose onto..
 
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Alright... got around to removing, well trying to remove the fuel/water seperator underneath the handlebars to replace the filter in there... I really do not want to un-bolt the whole thing...


I seriously could not get a grip on the darn thing to un-screw it!! Every grip I did get, I could not get it to even budge loose to twist it off....

I did notice it has a square nut looking thing molded to the bottom of the container... can I take say a pair of vice grips and gently try and un-screw it by using the vice grips on that nut thing? I dont know another way to get this thing loose... theres hardly any room under there for my hands alone.
 
Im seriously stuck here... Ive tried my hardest and strongest turns to try and unscrew this damn fuel/water seperator, and its really not budging at all...

Any tricks im missing?? Id really like to finish this up without having to take it to a dealer.
 
Main Fuel Filter

Try this, there is a nut on top of the filter canister, loosen that nut. Remove the two fuel hoses and mark where they go. Remove the whole canister and put it in a vice, wrap a rag around it and use a pair of channel locks.

If its on that tight you may have to replace the O ring, you probably can find an O ring that will work at the hardware store, or automotive store.

Lou
 
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