Help. No Clue.

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
I received a used '94 XP 5458 from my Aunt for free. I took the fuel tank out and cleaned it. I drained as much of the injection oil out as I could. MY QUESTION: Is it normal to have oil in this area after removing the carburetors? Should all the oil be sucked out of there and then fill the oil injection tank?IMG_2059.JPG
 
No, you have either bad crank seals or rotary shaft seals. If it has been sitting a really long time you might get lucky and only have a really slow leak.

Either way you have to get all of that oil out.

Also you need to make sure you are only using API-TC rated oil, not TCW-3 like at walmart. If the oil is blue or green it is the wrong oil.
 
Thanks for the reply. It last ran in 2012 or 2013. If a kid was playing on it and pushing the throttle repeatedly, would it fill with oil? Would you recommend just getting all the oil out and starting the engine to see if it runs ok? I could do a complete engine tear down and replace all seals but rather not if not necessary. I would value your opinion. Thanks,
 
Well, you can't replace the seals on the crank w/o replacing the whole crank. somewhere, you probably have a slow oil leak. Better hope it's in your rotary shaft seal as that one is easily removeable compared to the crank. It's probably a slow leak and you may be okay to run it, but if you crank the engine over the way it is now with the plugs in, you'll hydrolock it. Suck all that oil out from the case. Rotate the engine to get the crank out of the way so you can get your sucktion tube right to the bottom of the case. May have to take the carb manifold (Rotary Valve cover) off. Once it's all out, turn it over with the starter, but have plugs out, and hold a rag above the plug holes. You'll spew lots of oil vapor. Be careful in taking off the Rotary Valve. Mark what tooth goes to what tooth so you can easily reassemble it later. If it is the RV seal, you'll see it weeping once you take that manifold off. If it's a slow leak, you will only see it after a few days or so.
 
Thank you for the reply!! I had the spark plugs out (before cranking) to check spark by cranking it over. As you said the oil vapor flew out of the plug holes. It has good spark. I'll do as you advise on removing that oil then re-assembly and try to start it.
 
Yes, get all the oil out you can then start it to burn the rest out.
Remember you can only run it for a little while out of the water, 30 seconds or so.

To answer your question, messing with the throttle will not cause the oil leak.
 
Your carbs are likely pretty nasty. I know you want to hear it run, but I'd at least check the diaphragm on them. It's probably hard and crusty. I'd rebuild the carbs before running it. Looking at the diaphragm will also let you see how nasty the carbs are (if at all). If the diaphragm is still soft and pliable, then maybe it's all good. Don't take apart the fuel block as there, you'll rip gaskets and have to order the rebuild kit. The diaphragm is under the cover with the round punch-out. You can take that one on/off numerous times. It's where you go to change out jets and pop-off spring (tuning). Maybe take out the metering block and spray your jets out with carb cleaner. Look in the throat of the carb and make sure you get good spray out of all 3 transition ports when spraying the pilot jet. They're tiny little pin holes in the throat of the carb. Should all be spraying when you flush the pilot jet.
 
Thanks for the replies. I have downloaded the shop manual for it and will turn on the garden hose immediately after it starts according to the shop manual. I've acquired the flushing hose.

Thanks for the carb tips. I do plan on taking the carb apart to some degree and inspect/clean it. It may need a carb kit once inspected.
 
You don't have to panic and turn the water on immediately. Make sue the engine is running and not going to die before you turn the water on, next turn the water off then the engine off. What you want to avoid is the water being on when the engine is off or water can get forced into the cylinders through the exhaust.

Before and after each ride I start the skis and rev them a few times to make sure they are good to go and blow any water out of the mufflers when I am done. The only time I connect them to the hose is if I run them in salt water for flushing.
 
Thanks. That is the difference between reading a shop manual and talking to someone who knows by experience. Thanks again. This forum is a great resource for a rookie owner. I'm not in a rush to get it running. My goal is to have it ready sometime this summer.
 
Maybe in Florida, but here in Minnesota the lakes are cold. The ice has only been off the lakes for a month. I'd maybe ride it if it ran and I had a wet suit......maybe.
 
Back when I was in NC, we'd get all done up in our ski gear, pull on the waterproof work boots and go ride the jet skis in Jan. Didn't do it often, but sometimes, the need to be on the water would get to me. Water would only be 40F and air temps between 60 or maybe close to 70. I swear it feels colder on the lake than anywhere else. Must be all that air cooled by the water. It's why I got a boat, so I could go out all year round without getting my feet wet :)
 
I took another look at getting the oil out of the engine last evening. Would you recommend removing the engine or can I remove those parts shown in my picture above?
 
You just need a vacuum pump to get the oil out.

This is one of the better tools I have invested in over the years.
moeller.jpg
 
Thanks. I appreciate it. I took the carb apart to some degree to inspect and clean. I guess I'll be getting a carb kit for $89. I've seen worse restoring old vintage snowmobiles, however nothing like new diaphragms, etc. Pictures attached.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2181.JPG
    IMG_2181.JPG
    3.1 MB · Views: 12
  • IMG_2177.JPG
    IMG_2177.JPG
    2.9 MB · Views: 12
  • IMG_2180.JPG
    IMG_2180.JPG
    2.5 MB · Views: 13
I also installed a new fuel tank baffle. The old one was rotten. See attached pics. Those OEM clamps are a pain. I bought a new special pliers and a couple new clamps and they suck. I couldn't get the new clamps to connect on the hose. Can I just use normal small hose clamps? I'd value your opinion on that!!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2173.JPG
    IMG_2173.JPG
    2.8 MB · Views: 19
  • IMG_2174.JPG
    IMG_2174.JPG
    2.6 MB · Views: 19
  • IMG_2176.JPG
    IMG_2176.JPG
    2 MB · Views: 19
The carbs don't look too bad at all.

I don't use the clamps, I use the high quality zipties with the stainless locking tang.

Also make sure you replace all the gray fuel hose.
 
Perfect. Thanks again for all you help. You have been a great resource and I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions.
 
I use old tile cutting pliers for those clamps. They've worked great for me. You can buy them at any hardware store that sells tile tools (HD, Lowes etc.) Wow, you weren't kidding about that baffle, that sucker is GONE! $89 for carb rebuild kit?? I hope that comes with two. Last I checked, they were like $36 each... How bad were the little filters? I'd run an inline fuel filter just before the carbs. Helps to keep debris out of those little carb filters.
 
I am one of the ones that doesn't like the additional inline filters and have actually seen them give issues but that's just my $0.02.

If your tank, strainer and system are clean there isn't a need for them.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top