Help a dad help his son-reverse cable issue RXP

[BirdRiver7617]

Im 52 and have not owned a jet ski since i was 18. My 18 year old just bought a 2007 RXP and while I was out on it ( just testing LOL) the plastic revers nut broke and it dropped into reverse only. It took on a little water as well but did not flood motor as I was close to ramp.

So we got the rest of that pain in the arse plastic nut out and replaced the rubber washer, the 2 black plastic haves that go around the cable and tightened the new nut on as far as we could.

Took it back out and would not go over 30 (usually hits 53) and the reverse handle kept lifting up on its own.

I assume i either tightened cable too much or not enough or reassembled wrong. Any help appreciated. He is so disappointed and I feel guilty for being on the ski when it happened.

 

[gazzaskirepair]

https://www.seadoowarehouse.com/oemparts/a/sea/500d6986f870020908257bab/reverse
item 51 spring
It holds it in forward fail safe item too

 

[BirdRiver7617]

Spring seems fine but look what I found:

I think the top two bolts that hold the jet sheared off

 

[BirdRiver7617]

Can i just buy 2 new bolts and replace?
Or is this a more Detailed job requiring new seals etc etc

thanks!

 

[BirdRiver7617]

Ok, got it apart.

I wonder if somehow the shearing contributed to the Reverse cable nut issue or vice versa

Here it is:
I wonder if somehow the shearing contributed to the Reverse cable nut issue or vice versa

 

[ht_addict]

Hi,

I expect that when the reverse cable nut went that the impact of the reverse bucket dropping sheared the heads off of the nozzle/venturi bolts.

If you look at the youtube video below, you will see somebody else who lost their reverse nut. Notice that the upper nozzle/venturi bolts are sheared off as well. I would inspect the assembly for other damage as well.

2007 GTI SE reverse cable


The force on the venturi is significant and it is most likely leaking between the pump and venturi with the missing bolts.

It is HIGHLY recommended that you replace the plastic nut with an aftermarket aluminum billet version. Most people will also recommend that you replace the steering cable nut at the same time with an aluminum one as well. It's the same plastic nut and they get brittle over time... one fails then the other. If either of these nuts fail while you are away from shore you can easily sink the ski.

You might want to download the 2007 shop manual. May come in handy now or in the future.

 

[BirdRiver7617]

Thanks so much for help! If you wouldn’t mind 3 more questions:

i’ve seen some comments about the quality of these bolts. That “A2” is weaker and I should upgrade to “A4” as it is a stronger stainless steel bolt. Thoughts?

Here is pic of head of current bolts that failed:
what does 21n-m and 16lbf-ft in you drawing mean?

finally: when i put the cone back on, is there any type of gasket that is supposed to go on there? I did not see one in there does not appear to be one in the drawing it just seems weird that it’s just 4 bolts that you tighten up

 

[ht_addict]

From what I can tell, the standard bolt from Seadoo is A2 grade. I don't think it will matter which but I am one of those that prefers OEM unless their is known reason to change. For example, changing the plastic reverse nut makes sense.

16 ft-lb (foot pounds) or 21 N-m (newton meters) is the torque spec for those bolts (same torque amount just given in sae/english and metric values). (I am going to guess you don't have a torque wrench if you don't know what the values mean). I prefer to torque to spec, especially on items that have significant loads on them like this (For reference, I am a mechanical engineer).

They also want loctite blue 243 to be put on the bolts if you are reusing the bolt. If you buy new bolts from Seadoo you won't need to apply it the first time you use the bolt. The Seadoo bolts (p/n: 207285060, Hex Screw M8 X 50, Scotch Grip) come pre-applied with 3M scotch grip (similar to loctite).

There isn't a gasket between the venturi and the pump, but there are o-rings (#35 in image) between the venturi and the water outlet tubes (#10 in image). These are critical. The water leaving the venturi creates a vacuum which sucks water out of the bilge thru the outlet tubes. Make sure the tubes and o-rings are installed correctly. There are o-rings on both sides of the tubes. If the outlet tubes and/or o-rings are not properly installed you can break the bilge draining capability, even cause the bilge to fill with water.