Hello - 2000 XP 951

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mrdanahy

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Just thought I'd say hi. I've been trying to use the search function to look up old XP 951 articles on things people have done to theirs without much luck. I bought mine a couple weeks ago. It ran rough idling when the guy started it up for me. Before starting it again after I got it home, I replaced every fuel line, filters, rebuilt carbs, and new fuel sender so the gauge would work. The things runs great now.
I was wondering if anyone has tried the pro-lock air filter on theirs and what they thought. I've ordered it and I'm waiting for it to show up. I also am thinking of doing the ride plate and intake grate from R&D. Any info on what to expect from these mods are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
First off I strongly suggest you don't change the air filter and just keep the stock one.
THe stock air cleaner flows plenty of air for the stock engine so there is no performance gain to be had and you will have to rejet the carbs for sure. Second the stock air cleaner is very good at keeping water out of the engine and carbs while the aftermarket ones are not and the XP is a pretty wet hull. The 951's will not tolerate any water in the engines and are very well documented to throw rods out the cases when they get water in them.

I hope you only used Genuine Mikuni carb kits and needle and seats for the carb rebuild or you will be doing it again. Not ebay, SBT, WSM or Wonderosa kits, only Genuine Mikuni. You should also replace the fuel selector.

Also you can only run Full synthetic API-TC oil in these and change the small 3/32" oil lines from the oil pump to the intake.

As far as rideplate and intake grate, there is really no need on the XP hull as it already hooks up so good. I would only suggest the scoop grate if you ride in really rough water all the time. If you want it to turn on rails you should get aftermarket sponsons.
 
On the air cleaner .. I've already ordered it so I don't know what I'm going to do. I don't mind pulling it back apart if I need to.

Yes I used the genuine mikuni rebuild kits. I found out on my 787 about the aftermarket kits. It was nice to rebuild them once and it run so well the first time out. I replaced the selector valve at the same time I did the hoses.

How do I know if the oil lines have been replaced? What size do you recommend? They're the clear ones right now.
 
I would recommend against the aftermarket air cleaners.
If the oil lines have paint on them they are original. You will need 3/32" Tygon hose available at any mower shop or even Home Depot sells it.
 
Next time I'm at the depot I'll have to get some. My new seat cover showed up today. After work I'm going to get that done. I can't wait to get back out on the lake.

What do you think of removing the rear resonator? Is there any benefit?
 
On the air cleaner .. I've already ordered it so I don't know what I'm going to do. I don't mind pulling it back apart if I need to.

Yes I used the genuine mikuni rebuild kits. I found out on my 787 about the aftermarket kits. It was nice to rebuild them once and it run so well the first time out. I replaced the selector valve at the same time I did the hoses.

How do I know if the oil lines have been replaced? What size do you recommend? They're the clear ones right now.
I used a R&D aftermarket air cleaner for about 15 years on a 2000 XP. I had no issues with it. You will need to rejet the carbs which is a pain. you will need to do everything you can to keep excess water out of the hull; I used Duck Bill drains and they worked great.
The boat ran a LOT better with the set up. Good luck
 
Next time I'm at the depot I'll have to get some. My new seat cover showed up today. After work I'm going to get that done. I can't wait to get back out on the lake.

What do you think of removing the rear resonator? Is there any benefit?
I removed the rear resonator and installed the exhaust hose from a 1998 XP, I dont think SD offers these any longer. I cant say if that made a difference as I did a number of changes at once. It did sound better.
 
First off I strongly suggest you don't change the air filter and just keep the stock one.
THe stock air cleaner flows plenty of air for the stock engine so there is no performance gain to be had and you will have to rejet the carbs for sure. Second the stock air cleaner is very good at keeping water out of the engine and carbs while the aftermarket ones are not and the XP is a pretty wet hull. The 951's will not tolerate any water in the engines and are very well documented to throw rods out the cases when they get water in them.

I hope you only used Genuine Mikuni carb kits and needle and seats for the carb rebuild or you will be doing it again. Not ebay, SBT, WSM or Wonderosa kits, only Genuine Mikuni. You should also replace the fuel selector.

Also you can only run Full synthetic API-TC oil in these and change the small 3/32" oil lines from the oil pump to the intake.

As far as rideplate and intake grate, there is really no need on the XP hull as it already hooks up so good. I would only suggest the scoop grate if you ride in really rough water all the time. If you want it to turn on rails you should get aftermarket sponsons.
Best answers. Follow without hesitation.
 
Where would I locate the jetting info? I just rebuilt the carbs too .. dang it ...
Whomever sells the air intake, flame arrestor, whatever you want to call it will have specs. Glenn atPerry Performance Group in Florida are well versed in the 951 engine. He can help.
FYI there are no engines I have ever heard of in marine or automotive applications that will tolerate water ingestion. My suggestion to you is this. Ride your boat for the summer and decide over the winter if you want to pursue upgrades. No reason to rush. Whenever I rode, I always opened the engine compartment and checked for excess water in the hull before riding. changing the air intake is more risky so you need to pay attention. I felt the performance was totally worth the risk.
In regards to oil, I use Sea Doo. FYI I bought my XP new. I went to the dealer and bought the oil they suggested which was mineral oil! I didnt know so I ran my XP on mineral oil for its entire life. the only thing i noticed was I had to clean the RAVE valves more often. That being said, dont make the mistake I did. use SD full synthetic.
 
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