Hard start issues with 2000 Islandia V6 Mercury 240 EFI, any advise on what to look for?

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Machinehead

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Ok, I will try to make this story short but some may find they are in the same boat as me (No Pun Intended) so I will share. I am a person that should never own a boat, I do not have good luck with them. Example: I own 3 (Now 4 With The One I'm Posting About) 3 of witch don't run presently. The problem in the area I am in, is that good techs, are like trying to track and capture a Unicorn. Not throwing stones at the industry, its just the way it is. I was a Parts and Service Director for a Huge multi line and location car dealer for 25 years. One of the big factors for me changing careers after so many years was that good repair technicians are impossible to find. 8 years later it is even worse than when I left. Guys who are talented and skilled with mechanical repair are electing to go into other better paying fields. So pretty soon if cars, boats, motorcycles need anything but an oil change or state inspection people will be hard pressed to find new guys entering the arena with the skills to really fix things. That's why forums like this are so important. We have to get the advise from guys who still have the skill so we can fix some of these items on our own. I'm sure everyone on this site has experienced taking an item in for a repair and have it come back worse than when you sent it in. That's the case with my 3 non running boats right now. But My wife and son love the water and we rent a cabin on a lake every years so boat purchase number 4 is where I'm at and looking for some help. Rant over onto problem. Lol.

I picked up a 2000 Islandia just so that we would have something to use at the cabin we rented. It had sat in a Marina warehouse for 2 seasons. I tested it on the water it worked great loaded it up and brought it home. Marina got killed on the boat and I bought, it what I think to be cheap, but as is. So this is what is happening now that I have had it in the water for 3 days. I could see myself really loving this boat if I can get this weird starting issue figured out.

Issue 1 - Cold start after sitting for a few hours or overnight. It take 6-7 attempts to get it to start and idle. It starts and stalls. With each start it runs a little longer and it seems that the cold high idle (That I Assume It Should Have Normally Creeps Up A little Higher To Where I Believe It Should Be With Each Start) On the 6-7 start it idles and runs perfect. It would idle all day if you walked away from it. Take it out on the lake and full throttle, putting around, whatever you do it runs perfect with 0 issues. If you shut off and restart right away or within the first couple minutes it works fine and starts right up first try and is ready to go.

Issue 2 - Hard start after running gets worse if have it shut off for more than a couple minutes. It will start and stall. Changes from the cold start problem because it doesn't run a little longer with each attempt. It will start and stall almost instantly. The first day I used it, I was ready to call for help to tow, until I figured out the trick after 30 minutes. If you crank it over and catch it when it does start, For A Split Second, and can jump right on the throttle to take off it will spit a little bit for few seconds than clears up and runs perfect. runs for hours after that without missing a beat.

It has all new tune up parts, Full tank of premium gas.

It runs SO GOOD other than these couple weird little issues I cant see it being a huge deal. Looking for advise from others who may have already traveled this road.

Thanks guys!!!!
 
Welcome... and... I fully agree with your rant. I'm here because most people who are mechanics can't do anything else. OR... they move into the field because they didn't know what to do with their life, and that's what to local tech school offered that sounded good. I hate to let anyone else work on my stuff, and when people I know ask... "Why do you always work on your stuff"... my answer has become... "Why should I pay someone to piss me off?"

OK... with what you are describing... I'm pointing my finger firmly at leaking injectors. (or the O-rings around them, at the fuel rail) But lets look....


Issue 1) This is a classic 2-stroke trying to clear out. There's extra fuel sitting in the bottom of the reed housing, and plenum because of a leaky injectors... and when you go to start it... it has to push/burn it out. But since it's so rich... it can't get enough air to stay happy. Now... in this case... you do have an air temp, and engine temp senders. When cold, they will obviously add fuel at start, making the issue worse. But with that said... there is a known issue with the port side temp sender. They go bad and cause a hard start situation. Not as bad as you are describing... but it's something that needs checked.

Issue 2) This one started to make me think of something else... but since you say you can catch it with a little throttle, and it goes... that takes me right back to leaky injectors.


OK... with all that said...

a) what is the idle RPM when warmed up?
b) What is your max/full throttle RPM?
c) when at idle... if you turn the wheel to full, either direction, do you get a jump in RPM?
d) Are you running the fan a couple minutes before starting? (I run mine all the time, other than sitting)
e) There really isn't a "High Idle" on these engines. the ECU just compensates when cold.


Oh.... there's no reason to waste the $$$ on premium fuel. These engines were designed around standard fuel. (87) I don't have an issue with Methanol fuels like some people do... but if that's all you have... bump up to mid grade. To be 100% honest... premium on a stock engine just puts extra heat in the exhaust, and piston edges since it's still burning as the exhaust port is exposed. (not a good thing)
 
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Again thanks for the help Dr. Honda.

Just a heads up I'm stealing "why pay someone to piss me off" , its my new favorite phrase. Lol.

So to answer each questions:

*RPM's at idle and full throttle, I will check when I go back to the lake this afternoon. By ear, they sound to be where they should be, but will record and give you exact numbers later today.

* When at idle and turning wheel full left and right idle does go up. I downloaded an owners manual and have gone cover to cover with it. From what I can see that is the steering assist and seems to be working as described in manual. Pretty cool once you play with it and get the hang of it, makes docking pretty simple.

* I saw another post you had helped with that talked about running the fan. I started to do this but it has not changed the starting issues.

* As far as not having a cold high idle, that makes sense to me. I guess a better description would be, on the first 5-6 attempts at starting, with each attempt it seems to be a little less low idle/loaded up sounding until around the 6th start it fires up and idles perfect.

Good to know about the fuel. I started with a full tank of premium because it had sat for a couple seasons (was left almost empty when stored) and figured would be good to delude any of the real old stuff that may have been still left.

Thanks again for the help. Leaking injectors sounds like a strong possibility. I used to be a Mercedes Benz service manager and years ago we had some issues with the 190E models, that acted very similar.

I had seen some posts about port side temp sensor issues. I may pick one up and replace it anyways just because it seems to be such a common area of some concerns. It seems to be a relatively inexpensive and easy potential problem to cut off at the pass.
 
1500 is a little high... but ok... and 6000 is perfect.

So... yep... I'm thinking leaky injectors. Before you put it away for the winter... pull them out, and send them to your local injection shop for a proper cleaning.

Oh... the reason I asked about the extra RPM when you turn the wheel.... since yours is still hooked up... you can use that to your advantage to help get started. Hold the wheel over, and it will clear out faster since that will hold the throttle open a little while in neutral.
 
Very cool, Way sounder advise and direction in the short time that I have been on this site than I would have received at any shop.

I'm SURE they would have been replacing plugs, tune up items (even though those are all brand new) fuel pumps and god knows what else. Throw parts at it and hope you get lucky. Lol.

When you get time and boat off trailer, bunk measurements would be awesome. Have to get that trailer reworked when I'm back from camp next week.

Thanks SO MUCH for the help.
 
Very cool, Way sounder advise and direction in the short time that I have been on this site than I would have received at any shop.

I'm SURE they would have been replacing plugs, tune up items (even though those are all brand new) fuel pumps and god knows what else. Throw parts at it and hope you get lucky. Lol.

I have found most shops steer away from these boats even thou it is basically and outboard motor mounted on a jet pump and they work on the same outboards. And you are right most throw parts at the problem and roll the dice.

Easy to get a service manual and walk yourself thru the problems and ask questions here when you are stumped or just need confirmation you are headed in the right direction.
 
.......

When you get time and boat off trailer, bunk measurements would be awesome. Have to get that trailer reworked when I'm back from camp next week.

..........

My fishing outing got canceled today. (dang work) But I should be going on Friday morning now. I'll take a few pics, and get some measurements.
 
Starting to play with some other items to get things up and working. Where are the bilge pumps located. I get no sound when I turn the switch on so I'm sure they have seen better days.
 
Yep... seems like I replace that pump every couple years. I use to use "Good" pumps... but since they fail too... I just get cheap ones, and don't feel bad when they give up.

Anyway... look in the engine bay, and you will see it mounted just in front of the engine. If you remove the battery cover, you can lay down on the long fiberglass separator, and makes changing them easy.
 
Yep... seems like I replace that pump every couple years. I use to use "Good" pumps... but since they fail too... I just get cheap ones, and don't feel bad when they give up.

Anyway... look in the engine bay, and you will see it mounted just in front of the engine. If you remove the battery cover, you can lay down on the long fiberglass separator, and makes changing them easy.



Thank You Sir !!!!

Are there 2 in engine bay or just 1? Looks like I have 2 switches, owners manual is not real clear. I know I have the front kiddie pool pump that works but have 2 other switches other than the one that runs the kiddie pool that seem to be labeled Bilge.
 
There should be 3 Blue Switches
1 for bilge
1 for Kiddie Pool Fountain
1 for fresh Water pump from the onboard 20 gal tank. This provides water for Sink, Rear washout hose, Front hose to fill kiddie pool
 
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