GTX 4

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
Had a similar problem with my gtx215.
All tests came back positive. Even had the battery charger connected in boost or start mode. Same results. Ski would not turn over. Just clicking.
I also had the added symptom of my instrument cluster going blank.
To make a long story much shorter the battery was bad. It reported 13 volts but as soon as I put a load on it it dropped way down.
I suggest prior to purchasing a replacement battery just jump it from another known good battery.

Good luck.
Bill
 
I just got back from the local parts store with the battery, they load tested it twice and it passed.

When i place the key in i get the 2 beeps , then followed by the long beep which is due to my broken cluster , then i get 4 short beeps every 3 seconds interval but i cant get the thing to crank and i receive faint clicking coming from the MPEM or i could say that solenoid .

Earlier this afternoon i spoke to the the tech who done the work and he told me that the Ski cluster always been brook , he cleared all the codes except one at the time ( cam or crank position sensor ) he also mentioned that he was having trouble communicating with the ECU and the Ski ran but was governed , he believes its one of the 2 items either the ECU or MPEM but he is leaning more towards the MPEm.

Today during the time i was removing the battery i cleaned all posts , i also pulled the MPEM and removed all the plugs, i inspected all fuses and they all good . One thing i noticed is that some of the pins has some corrosion ,i am going to clean them.

The following website ( Jetskiplus.com ) offers good diagnostic tips for the MPEM but i cant find mine listed or how to test it to determine




There is a plug with 2 post that is mounted next to the MPEM which i think its the solenoid , any way to test that ?
 
Last edited:
I just got back from the local parts store with the battery, they load tested it twice and it passed.

When i place the key in i get the 2 beeps , then followed by the long beep which is due to my broken cluster , then i get 4 short beeps every 3 seconds interval but i cant get the thing to crank and i receive faint clicking coming from the MPEM or i could say that solenoid .

Earlier this afternoon i spoke to the the tech who done the work and he told me that the Ski cluster always been brook , he cleared all the codes except one at the time ( cam or crank position sensor ) he also mentioned that he was having trouble communicating with the ECU and the Ski ran but was governed , he believes its one of the 2 items either the ECU or MPEM but he is leaning more towards the MPEm.

Today during the time i was removing the battery i cleaned all posts , i also pulled the MPEM and removed all the plugs, i inspected all fuses and they all good . One thing i noticed is that some of the pins has some corrosion ,i am going to clean them.

The following website ( Jetskiplus.com ) offers good diagnostic tips for the MPEM but i cant find mine listed or how to test it to determine




There is a plug with 2 post that is mounted next to the MPEM which i think its the solenoid , any way to test that ?
**
Not 100% sure of what you're describing - but if it is the starter solenoid wire it should be thicker than the other wires. If you can trace it to the solenoid or starter that would be a sure thing.

I would NOT jump 12 volts on to that circuit until I was 100% sure it was direct to the starter solenoid - you could cause more electrical damage and change all your symptoms with a multitude of new problems to diagnose. Take it slow & do no further damage.

I'm not a full blown (paying) member of this site - but I've seen information about shop manuals and schematics being available to paying members - if that's true it may be worth it.

Bill
 
Solenoid Checked ok , Jumping it did not turn the motor over, think we are having a starter problem , Will report
 
I had a similar issue lately and it turned out that the DESS port had turned defective. I replaced it. Long beeps usually mean that key is not being recognized by the ski (MPEM). My manual says it can be either the key, the terminal post and/or the MPEM giving away. However I did not experience the clicks. This could be pointing to a bad or about to fail solenoid. Is the ski running fine otherwise?

Benji.
 
i was testing for a bad solenoid following those steps here


HowTo: Sea Doo Ticking Noise when you Press the Start Button? Replace the Solenoid!


Easy” screwdriver test method: >>> Result the Motor did not turn when i jump the 2 posts

You don’t need the key on the ignition post for this test. Pop off the covers on the red boot , which will expose the two posts and nuts that attach the two wires to the solenoid. Take a long screwdriver and briefly touch both exposed posts at the same time. your screwdriver basically performing the job of the solenoid: connecting 12V of power from the battery directly to the starter. this screwdriver trick causes the engine to turn over, then you can be certain that the solenoid is indeed the problem. If it were a bad starter button instead, it wouldn’t try to actuate the solenoid, and so i wouldn’t have heard the “tick tick tick” sound when i press the button.

even with the above method motor didn't turn over, so am not sure if my test is valid . Unless i do have bad starter since i hit the start button and i hear “tick tick tick”


However, i had a conflicting result when testing the solenoid with Voltmeter as follow

My volts where .8~.9 but i will recheck again


“Safe” voltage meter test method: You do need the key on the ignition post for this test. Expose the solenoid’s posts as described above. Put your voltage meter in the appropriate mode to test for 12 VDC (including one decimal place) and touch a test lead to each post. Put the engine in “drown mode” by holding down the throttle all the way (you can put a rubber band around it to hold it open), then press the start button. The voltage across the solenoid should be no more than 0.2 V. If you show more than 0.2 V going across that connection, then your solenoid is confirmed bad.



I followed those steps unless there is any better method to test
 
Last edited:
who ever designed those things didn't keep in mind that the parts will need to be pulled, changed and serviced, it has been a nightmare to get those stupid TORX head bolts holding the starter. The top one came out bottom one is a different story , the head been completely stripped to shit , nothing getting it out , ordered IRWIN Bolt extractor that goes below 1/4" in hope that it will grip the head of that POS bolt
 
Hey Windex i am having the same problem as you right now, mine is also clicking and I did replace the solenoid, and tested it and it does not turn over, so that leaves either the battery or starter. I ordered a new starter but I have no clue how to get to it to remove it. Any ideas?
 
Hey Windex i am having the same problem as you right now, mine is also clicking and I did replace the solenoid, and tested it and it does not turn over, so that leaves either the battery or starter. I ordered a new starter but I have no clue how to get to it to remove it. Any ideas?


Hey OFD25

I tested the Solenoid then determined it was the starter since directly jumping it did not result the motor to turn over.

Things to remove for more room

First *****MAKE sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal and wrap the cable with electrical tape to be sure it wont ground it self .

1- make sure you have Torx socket set YOU MUST HAVE THE RIGHT one ask me how i learned

2- remove the solenoid for extra room and cover the metal bracket that is holding the MPEM as it will shredded your hand.

3-The Starter upper bolt is easy to get to from the port side by sliding your hand under the exhaust manifold as you standing.

4- BEST Thing is to work the lower bolt from the STBD side with big mirror and light ( in fact you can get both bolts that way ) ONLY problem is you must have good grip as you will be well stretched over the engine.

5- Have a good magnet as you will be fishing your tool out all day long from the bilge


At this point i am still fighting a stripped lower bolt so i didn't pass this point yet as i am waiting for a very small bolt extractor kit to arrive tomorrow from Amazon.


OOh and you will be cussing all the way through this Job. now i know why i never liked those things and this one confirms it
 
I am planing to take the starter to the starter shop to have them rebuild it if i cant find one locally. They have done exptional job for me in the past with all my diesel application at a fraction of the new one
 
Well i pulled the starter Out, bench tested it after i cleaned it as it had slight moist /few drips of water but it passed . Stuck my finger inside the the starter housing and i can spin a gear of sort but not sure what is that as i cant find it in the manual.

Starter not the issue at this point , things i have tested for


Battery is fully charged and load tested 3 times and passed , still i get click at the solenoid

Test i done with the KEY in place/ push the start button :

1- 12.40 VDC present @ solenoid

2- when i push start i get 12.22 VDC at the other side of the Solenoid going to the starter but the starter doesn't spin and i get Click at the solenoid

3- With above test the starter not moving or functioning as it was on the bench even when it momentarily receive 12.24 VDC
 
Last edited:
If you simply connect the starter to a known good battery does it spin?
If you're getting 12.4 volts on the starter side of the solenoid it sounds like
1- Bad connection at starter
2- Bad starter
3- Not enough amperage from the battery. (Voltage is not amperage) A battery can have 12 volts and not be capable of providing the amperage needed to spin the starter. Try a battery that is turning over another sled with out problems.
This is starting to sound like what happened to me. Everything looked to be within spec, but nothing but clicks. So I introduced a new KNOWN GOOD battery and the dam thing started right up.
Killed a whole day messing around & looking at everything else before I went back and tried the new battery.
 
If you simply connect the starter to a known good battery does it spin?
If you're getting 12.4 volts on the starter side of the solenoid it sounds like
1- Bad connection at starter
2- Bad starter
3- Not enough amperage from the battery. (Voltage is not amperage) A battery can have 12 volts and not be capable of providing the amperage needed to spin the starter. Try a battery that is turning over another sled with out problems.
This is starting to sound like what happened to me. Everything looked to be within spec, but nothing but clicks. So I introduced a new KNOWN GOOD battery and the dam thing started right up.
Killed a whole day messing around & looking at everything else before I went back and tried the new battery.


Thank you for the recommendation

1- Bad connection at starter ( I cleaned the body of the starter to the block to make sure i have good ground) , Main post is clean and starter passed Bench test

2- Bad starter ( starter tested good and strong )
3- Not enough amperage from the battery ( Battery was load tested 3 times ) although its about 2 years old


Will try different battery that is i know its good , also i talked to local trusted PWC/ Boat repair shop they told me since i am receiving Voltage across the solenoid and the fact that i do not feel any motion at the starter it could be a BAD ground and recommended to run jumper cable from battery ground to a good spot on the ENG , if it start then its bad ground .
 
if battery, starter, solenoid, and switched power to solenoid is good, connections good, the only place left to go is excessive resistance in the cables causing too much of an amperage drop. there are times a starter will spin on the bench but is weak and once a load is put on it (like trying to turn over an engine) it will not spin. If you can get to it you could jumper a good battery directly to the start bypassing all the wiring, switches ect and simply see if the starter has the power to turn the motor over. If it does then I go back to the cables have excessive resistance if all other checks out
 
Gentlemen we have a running Ski & COLD Beer

It turned out to be Starter Cable as greenhornet2 called it with the cable . It had some good amount of green build up under the shield , it registered high resistance using the meter . I cleaned it and put back, it fired right Up.

I cleaned the injectors as well . It sounded pretty smooth at the low to med RPM , sluggish up on the higher RPM ..!

But hey it’s running Ski next to run it and see
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top